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Old 08-03-2007, 08:47 PM   #3166
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can anyone please tell what the 30w xray shock oil is equal to in associated and losi oils

Thanks for all the help
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Old 08-03-2007, 09:44 PM   #3167
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it is pretty much the same. its right around a 27.5-30wt losi. as for the associated, im not sure. aslo if you use the search option you can find it. i know i already asked this question about 2 pages back. but here it is again.
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Old 08-03-2007, 10:04 PM   #3168
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does anyone recommend running the front and rear sway bars? also would the multi-diff from the eu edition be better than the ball diff that comes standard with the us spec one?
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Old 08-03-2007, 10:23 PM   #3169
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does anyone recommend running the front and rear sway bars? also would the multi-diff from the eu edition be better than the ball diff that comes standard with the us spec one?
To awnser those ?'s more info is needed (not that I know the awnsers) but it is hard to say without knowing stuff like surface, tire, and setup
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Old 08-04-2007, 12:34 AM   #3170
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Couple questions...

1. Has anyone come to the conclusion that motor travel is very limited for setting gear mesh? I'm running the 84 gear, and realized that the pinion i need to run can just barely fit correctly. Even going up one tooth doesnt seem feasable due to limited space (84/28 vs 84/29)

2. If i could buy just one of the roll bar sets, which one would you buy first? Which one makes a bigger difference, front or rear?

3. Does anyone have any experience trying to get the US carpet version working on asphalt? What did you do?

4. What are the telltale signs that your diff balls/rings are just too worn out? I've rebuilt my diff several times and it always seems to be just a little gritty - never super smooth.

Thanks guys. Once I get this thing working I'll be a force to be wreckoned with.... in the novice class
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Old 08-04-2007, 01:09 AM   #3171
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To awnser those ?'s more info is needed (not that I know the awnsers) but it is hard to say without knowing stuff like surface, tire, and setup

im running stock motor and rubber carpet. i have done some testing with the car lately and have had a few good traction rolls coming off of a 110' back strait into a large sweeper.
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Old 08-04-2007, 01:29 AM   #3172
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Originally Posted by StickyFingaz View Post
Couple questions...

1. Has anyone come to the conclusion that motor travel is very limited for setting gear mesh? I'm running the 84 gear, and realized that the pinion i need to run can just barely fit correctly. Even going up one tooth doesnt seem feasable due to limited space (84/28 vs 84/29)

3. Does anyone have any experience trying to get the US carpet version working on asphalt? What did you do?
1. You could get a smaller spur, 81 or 78 teeth, they are about the equivalent of going up one or 2 pinions respectably.

3. You could try using o rings under the screws on the top deck if you have already got the chassis on the softest setting, I have heard this works but I'm not too sure as to how well
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Old 08-04-2007, 02:20 AM   #3173
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Originally Posted by jrr102486 View Post
it is pretty much the same. its right around a 27.5-30wt losi. as for the associated, im not sure. aslo if you use the search option you can find it. i know i already asked this question about 2 pages back. but here it is again.
thankyou
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Old 08-04-2007, 02:22 AM   #3174
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does anyone recommend running the front and rear sway bars? also would the multi-diff from the eu edition be better than the ball diff that comes standard with the us spec one?
007 EU F use 1.4mm , R use 1.2mm sway bar
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Old 08-04-2007, 08:03 AM   #3175
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Thanks 102486 didn't see it
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Old 08-04-2007, 10:15 AM   #3176
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Originally Posted by StickyFingaz View Post
Couple questions...

4. What are the telltale signs that your diff balls/rings are just too worn out? I've rebuilt my diff several times and it always seems to be just a little gritty - never super smooth.
You should replace the diff balls everytime you rebuild a diff, also if you look at the Xray Diff Rings there is a Shiny side and a Rough side (very faint but its there), the rough side goes away from the diff balls to keep the outdrive from slipping against the ring, the smooth side goes twoards the diff balls (you can also sand the smooth side with some #600 grit or higher sandpaper to make the diff even smoother), also you need to use some oneway lube on the diff balls, and finaly properly break-in the diff. If you do all that your diff should be smooth and last a long time (for diffs)
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Old 08-04-2007, 12:02 PM   #3177
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stickey,

if you could buy just one of the roll bars, then get the front one.

you rarely need to replace your diff balls maybe like once over a race season, but if your diff feels anything but smooth, then it is time for a rebuild. When you rebuild the diff you only need to replace the rings, and in your case it is probably a good idea to replace the thrust assembly so that you start with fresh parts. when you go to put in the new thrust assembly put a little bit AE black grease on the small rings, then put new big rings on the outdrives and apply a small amount of the silicone grease( that comes with your kit in that syringe type thing) to the rings and carefully put everything together. tighten the diff bolt till you start to feel it clamp the outdrives together and spin in your hands a few times tighten another half turn and spin it in your hands do that till the diff feels snug. put it back into your car and break it in my putting the left tire of your car against the table and give it about 1/4 throttle for like thirty seconds, repeat to other side. once you are done with that tighten the diff to race spec and enjoy a perfectly smooth diff.
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Old 08-04-2007, 07:34 PM   #3178
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You should replace the diff balls everytime you rebuild a diff, also if you look at the Xray Diff Rings there is a Shiny side and a Rough side (very faint but its there), the rough side goes away from the diff balls to keep the outdrive from slipping against the ring, the smooth side goes twoards the diff balls (you can also sand the smooth side with some #600 grit or higher sandpaper to make the diff even smoother), also you need to use some oneway lube on the diff balls, and finaly properly break-in the diff. If you do all that your diff should be smooth and last a long time (for diffs)
I think the one-way lube is not the best for diff balls... try asso diff grease instead.
How often you have to change the diff balls depends on how tight you run them, if you overtighten it then they go bad fast. I usually keep a car for a year and over that period I rebuild the diffs 8-10 times and I don't recall changing the balls once yet...
If the diff felt gritty after rebuild I would definitely check the balls and the washers and also the thrust assembly. Research teh teamxray site forum for more detailed advise.
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Old 08-04-2007, 08:15 PM   #3179
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I have never had to replace the diff balls from Xray, they are carbide and will wear the rings down.
The crunchiness is usually dirt in the thrust bearing.
The kit included tube of grease is diff lube, not one-way grease.
PS: BigB your giving advise on something you know nothing about again, and your advise is dead wrong.
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Old 08-04-2007, 08:40 PM   #3180
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I have never had to replace the diff balls from Xray, they are carbide and will wear the rings down.
The crunchiness is usually dirt in the thrust bearing.
The kit included tube of grease is diff lube, not one-way grease.
PS: BigB your giving advise on something you know nothing about again, and your advise is dead wrong.
Silicone Diff Lube your right (I got use to calling it oneway grease), and I should have put I would replace the balls in a full diff rebuild, but other than that what is such dead wrong advise, is there not a shiny side and a dull side, can't you sand the shiny side with a high grit sandpaper, and I guess properly break-in a diff is not needed.
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