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Old 07-31-2007, 06:21 PM   #3136
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I'm having a really wierd problem. My rear toe in on the left side is 3 degrees, which is what it should be, and my rear toe on the right side is 2 degrees which it should not be. Everything is identical from both sides, shims, spacers, everything. I have even switched all the componants from one side to the other, hub carrier, shims, lower arm, everything, and the problem remains on the right side of the car. I have even checked the bulkheads and the chassis for misalaignment. Everything looks perfect. What on earth could be going on? This one degree of difference is giving me some pretty adverse handling characteristics.
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Old 07-31-2007, 06:39 PM   #3137
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what are you using to determine your toe in? can you flip the gage from side to side? see if then you read 3 degree and 2 degree on the oppsite sides
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Old 07-31-2007, 06:47 PM   #3138
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Are you guys using the XRAY 48P pinions? If not, what brand would you recommend?

Thanks!
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:42 PM   #3139
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what are you using to determine your toe in? can you flip the gage from side to side? see if then you read 3 degree and 2 degree on the oppsite sides
I'm using a Hudy all in one for 10th TC. I tried flipping the panel guage, same thing, 3 on the left, 2 on the right. This is driving me nuts.
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:43 PM   #3140
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Are you guys using the XRAY 48P pinions? If not, what brand would you recommend?

Thanks!
Personally I use PRS (Precision Racing System) spurs, 64 pitch. They're awesome. MFG'd out of Delrin and silky smooth. As for pinions I just use Robinson Racing because I can get them locally.
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Old 07-31-2007, 08:00 PM   #3141
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Originally Posted by jp_666 View Post
hello,

Im interested to buy a Xray T2 007 US Foam version, but I use battery Stick Pack (Intellect 4200MAH 7.2V Sub-C Stick Pack, Tamiya Plug, 14AWG,), it is compatible using (Xray T2R/T2'007 6-Cell Graphite Battery Strap Set XR-306163) or not?,

thank you very much
You could always take the stick pack apart and make it a side x side pack
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Old 07-31-2007, 10:22 PM   #3142
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what are you using to determine your toe in? can you flip the gage from side to side? see if then you read 3 degree and 2 degree on the oppsite sides
Okay so I have determined that it is either the right rear bulkhead, or the chassis itself. All screws are straight, hinge pins are all straight. At this moment to get my toe close to 3 degrees in on both sides I'm having to run
(1.5+1.15 on the left side) and (1.5+1.5+1.15 on the right side). The car has not been crash, and the bulkheads are straight as an arrow, and the chassis is perfectly flat. I guess I'm going to call RC America back in the morning and see what they suggest. Has anyone else had this problem? Could it be that the bulkhead was misdrilled. Checking with my caliper the right bulkhead is about .82 mm further away from the edge of the chassis than the right side. When I added a .75 mm shim to the right side, the left side moved out to 3.5 degrees toe in while only giving me 2.5 toe in on the right side. Thats why I went to the above stated shim setup. I guess worst case scenario I can just run it like that. But it just doesn't seem right.
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Old 07-31-2007, 10:36 PM   #3143
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Originally Posted by Myhre View Post
Okay so I have determined that it is either the right rear bulkhead, or the chassis itself. All screws are straight, hinge pins are all straight. At this moment to get my toe close to 3 degrees in on both sides I'm having to run
(1.5+1.15 on the left side) and (1.5+1.5+1.15 on the right side). The car has not been crash, and the bulkheads are straight as an arrow, and the chassis is perfectly flat. I guess I'm going to call RC America back in the morning and see what they suggest. Has anyone else had this problem? Could it be that the bulkhead was misdrilled. Checking with my caliper the right bulkhead is about .82 mm further away from the edge of the chassis than the right side. When I added a .75 mm shim to the right side, the left side moved out to 3.5 degrees toe in while only giving me 2.5 toe in on the right side. Thats why I went to the above stated shim setup. I guess worst case scenario I can just run it like that. But it just doesn't seem right.

Have you tried a new hub? Some of the plastic hubs have a pretty wide variation of "1 degree" for toe in. The aluminum are supposedly much more accurate.
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Old 07-31-2007, 10:40 PM   #3144
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Originally Posted by Myhre View Post
Okay so I have determined that it is either the right rear bulkhead, or the chassis itself. All screws are straight, hinge pins are all straight. At this moment to get my toe close to 3 degrees in on both sides I'm having to run
(1.5+1.15 on the left side) and (1.5+1.5+1.15 on the right side). The car has not been crash, and the bulkheads are straight as an arrow, and the chassis is perfectly flat. I guess I'm going to call RC America back in the morning and see what they suggest. Has anyone else had this problem? Could it be that the bulkhead was misdrilled. Checking with my caliper the right bulkhead is about .82 mm further away from the edge of the chassis than the right side. When I added a .75 mm shim to the right side, the left side moved out to 3.5 degrees toe in while only giving me 2.5 toe in on the right side. Thats why I went to the above stated shim setup. I guess worst case scenario I can just run it like that. But it just doesn't seem right.
The distance from the Bulkhead to the chassis dosent change the toe as long as the bulkheads are straight, the toe has to do with the shims on the bulkhead (inboard toe) and the offset on the rear upright (outboard toe), check to make sure the width of the sims in each spot are the right size and that they are in the right place.
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Old 08-01-2007, 01:49 AM   #3145
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Myhre, I also suggest you measure the distance between the left and right bulkhead at the front and the rear. If the holes are misaligned somehow either both bulkheads are at an angle compared to the centerline of the chassis (can be measured, but is difficult) or one of them is misaligned which would mean the distance between the left and right bulkhead would be different between the front and rear of the bulkhead.

Hope that makes sense.

If there is a difference, try undoing all the screws and then retighten them again until the distance is the same. If that is not possible contact RC America for support.
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Old 08-01-2007, 01:58 AM   #3146
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was thinking of that. but the GTB is so big i had to place my rx there. then a pt on the side of the servo....

anyway, thought i found a way. i'll post pix too.


thanks!
here are the pix... still thinking about where to put the led light tho...
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Old 08-01-2007, 06:51 AM   #3147
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here are the pix... still thinking about where to put the led light tho...
If the led light is what I think it is then put it in the drawer and forget about it forever...
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Old 08-01-2007, 07:03 AM   #3148
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Have you tried a new hub? Some of the plastic hubs have a pretty wide variation of "1 degree" for toe in. The aluminum are supposedly much more accurate.
It's definately not the hub, I eliminated that as a possibility once I swapped all suspension and drivetrain from the right side to the left and vice versa.

I'm going to do what tony v suggested, that would be the last thing to confirm if it is in fact the bulkhead or not. I have actually tried loosening all the lower screws and realining with my guage on the car. Whatever it is that is wrong, it's not coming out that easily. Time to find out if the bulkheads are closer in the rear than in the front.
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Old 08-01-2007, 08:15 AM   #3149
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It's definately not the hub, I eliminated that as a possibility once I swapped all suspension and drivetrain from the right side to the left and vice versa.

I'm going to do what tony v suggested, that would be the last thing to confirm if it is in fact the bulkhead or not. I have actually tried loosening all the lower screws and realining with my guage on the car. Whatever it is that is wrong, it's not coming out that easily. Time to find out if the bulkheads are closer in the rear than in the front.
Okay I recant, It has to be the hub. I took the entire rear end off of the chassis and checked the spacing between the front and rear, bottom and top of the bulkheads. Everything was perfect. Then I went back and swapped the hubs one more time. Here's what I've come up with. With the blocks normal, I was getting 3 degrees of toe in on the left, and 2 degrees of toe in on the right. Since there are 2 degrees of inboard toe built into the arms via shims on the hinge pin blocks, that would mean the right block would have 0 deg of toe if it where the problem. So I swapped them from one side to the other again, and rechecked. Once swapped the left side had 2 degrees of toe and the right side had 1 degree of toe. Since the blocks once swapped should each have 1 degree of toe out, both sides should have had 1 degree of final toe in. Since the left side only came down to 2 degrees, I have to assumed that my carrier block has 0 degrees of toe in either direction. So I'll get a new set and go from there. RC America told me that XRAY does not make a 0 degree block, so I couldn't have gotten a mislabled one, it just has to be mismanufactered.

Thank you for all the suggestions. I hope this takes care of it.
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Old 08-01-2007, 08:18 AM   #3150
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If the led light is what I think it is then put it in the drawer and forget about it forever...

yup... as long as you recharge btwn heats you will never have to worry about over discharging.... just a nice security blanket to have the cutoff
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