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Old 07-24-2007, 12:02 AM   #3046
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The S9650 is a little small for our application... it's Actually a servo for a 1/12 chassis. What you need is a S9550. It's mounting positions are pretty much the same as the standard servos, but it is low profile. It allows you to have a little more room, plus it's pretty light.

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Old 07-24-2007, 12:40 AM   #3047
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fwik, when using KO or Futaba servos, use the outer hole (closer to the antenna mount). for Sanwa/Airtronics, use the inner hole
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Old 07-24-2007, 12:54 AM   #3048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace View Post
Thats a safe rule of thumb as starting points. Bottom out the diff and then back out 1/8th to 1/4 turn out is normally safe starting points.
uhhh...I really don't think 1/4 turn out is a good idea with these Xray diffs. I tightened my diffs fully and then had one of the A-main drivers from my local club check my diffs. He loosened them 1.5 turns out!
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Old 07-24-2007, 09:14 AM   #3049
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what is everyone using for motor and servos. i will be running stock rubber at my local shop.

has anyone used the 13.5 and the ex13.5? whats the main difference?

and for a servo do you want a smaller size or faster transit?
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Old 07-24-2007, 09:51 AM   #3050
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Originally Posted by jrr102486 View Post
what is everyone using for motor and servos. i will be running stock rubber at my local shop.

has anyone used the 13.5 and the ex13.5? whats the main difference?

and for a servo do you want a smaller size or faster transit?

for motors... Orion 10.5 on BL, Co27 and Checkpoint Money for spec. have yet to get a 4.5.

servo, KO lowpro. the KO and Futaba low profile servos are pretty quick already.
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Old 07-24-2007, 10:12 AM   #3051
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With all this talk of diff tightness...I thought I would throw out my way...
I have this but you dont apsolutly need but helps a ton.

It holds your diff. If you put your diff on this jig and can almost move the gear than you are just tight enough. If you can spin the gear than its too loose. If its too tight you can always loosen the screw a 8th of turn at a time till it almost slips. I tighten mine right before it slips.
This has allowed me to retain a very smooth diff and let the power to hit the track. Some like a little looser diff. I like em tight...
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Old 07-24-2007, 11:54 AM   #3052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace View Post
I run stock rubber with oneway on carpet.Using a diff just doesn't allow me to keep up...does anyone use or recomend a spool on rubber on carpet?
Joel, actually for the most part a good rubber asphalt setup would work on rubber on carpet. So yes I strongly recommend that you try the spool in these conditions you will be pleasantly surprised.
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Old 07-24-2007, 04:24 PM   #3053
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More questions...
  1. When you tear down your car between events, are you rebuilding the diffs? If so, what exactly are you doing?
  2. XRAY posted up a notice that the T2 '007 bearings needs extra servicing. Do you find this to be true or are you just replacing them with another brand?
  3. Would you recommend using the P-Dub bumper? Any disadvantage? Does it weigh much more than the stock bumper?
  4. Is the graphite motor guard only for collision protection or does it protect the motor from getting all scraped up on asphalt as well?
  5. Hudy Shock absorber assembly tool: Can't live without it?
  6. Hudy Chasiss balancing tool: Is there a better tool?
Thanks!
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Old 07-24-2007, 05:10 PM   #3054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
for motors... Orion 10.5 on BL, Co27 and Checkpoint Money for spec. have yet to get a 4.5.

servo, KO lowpro. the KO and Futaba low profile servos are pretty quick already.
ya because with theservo i was looking at a futaba s9550 or an airtronics 94758.
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Old 07-24-2007, 05:29 PM   #3055
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i have a us and got it dialed last sunday, i am looking at a eu car on the ebay and was wondering what is differnet? just deck height?? or is it all different bulkheads, towers, etc

i want to only have to carry 1 set of spares
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Old 07-24-2007, 06:00 PM   #3056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
More questions...
  1. When you tear down your car between events, are you rebuilding the diffs? If so, what exactly are you doing?
  2. XRAY posted up a notice that the T2 '007 bearings needs extra servicing. Do you find this to be true or are you just replacing them with another brand?
  3. Would you recommend using the P-Dub bumper? Any disadvantage? Does it weigh much more than the stock bumper?
  4. Is the graphite motor guard only for collision protection or does it protect the motor from getting all scraped up on asphalt as well?
  5. Hudy Shock absorber assembly tool: Can't live without it?
  6. Hudy Chasiss balancing tool: Is there a better tool?
Thanks!
-If I do a teardown... I change shock oil, check orings, clean and relube the CV joints and diffs if I feel they need it. I just basically clean everything, check and replace sloppy, worn, or damaged parts out. Check amdn make sure nothing is tweaked and such.

-They increased the tolerences of the bearings and in the first batch they werent lubricated quite enough. What the engineers originally thought of as a good thing, turned out to be more of a hassel than expected. The increased tolerences made it easier for small dirt or carpet fibers to damage or freeze up the bearing. The typical bearing used in r/c cars arent of that caliber, and ae more forgiving to some dust or carpet fibers. So you'll have to double check bearings a little more often if you grabbed one of the first kits (highly doubt that now).

-P Dub bumpers are pretty sweet

-It'll help in a collision in some cases. I personally dont run one, but it an help.

-The shock assembly tool is just cool. It's like having a set of shock shaft pilers. It's not really needed, but makes life easier at times.

-Not really, I use those or those trinity body post dimple maker things

-Korey
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Old 07-24-2007, 06:09 PM   #3057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
More questions...
  1. When you tear down your car between events, are you rebuilding the diffs? If so, what exactly are you doing?
  2. XRAY posted up a notice that the T2 '007 bearings needs extra servicing. Do you find this to be true or are you just replacing them with another brand?
  3. Would you recommend using the P-Dub bumper? Any disadvantage? Does it weigh much more than the stock bumper?
  4. Is the graphite motor guard only for collision protection or does it protect the motor from getting all scraped up on asphalt as well?
  5. Hudy Shock absorber assembly tool: Can't live without it?
  6. Hudy Chasiss balancing tool: Is there a better tool?
Thanks!
1. unless you are in some very tight competition you don't need to rebuild the diff between events. Xray diff is one if not the best one out there (I still don't get why other guys don't copy it). Because of the dust covers dirt barely can get int othe diff it almost never gets gritty. Rebuilding depends on what is worn out. Most of the time a cleaning and relube of the diff pulley and the thrust bearings is all you need. To be honest I never replaced anything on my xray diffs other then the thrust bearing once. I use asso diff grease for the diff balls and asso black grease for the thrust bearing. You need a special tool to remove the O-ring which holds the thrust bearing and the springs in place.

3. I recommend the P-dup bumper. Xray bumper is about 6-7g the pdub is 13g so the weight is twice but it saved me a ton of money

5. I could live without it for 2 years then I finally got one then switched to tamiya shocks I have one never used if interested

6. the balancing tool is very cheap and useful however it does not give you a front rear-balance. The best is to have four scales for the four wheels but it is not a must (I mean 99% of us can get away without it)
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Old 07-24-2007, 11:35 PM   #3058
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Korey and cvt01 ~ Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by cvt01 View Post
You need a special tool to remove the O-ring which holds the thrust bearing and the springs in place.
Who makes this special tool and do you have a part number? Are there any other special tools that I'm going to need for this car?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cvt01 View Post
The best is to have four scales for the four wheels
That's interesting. For some reason, I was thinking that the balancing tool was more than just a simple balancing act. Guess not.
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Old 07-24-2007, 11:45 PM   #3059
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anyone looking for a nice used Xrays, check out the for sale section .
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Old 07-25-2007, 01:48 AM   #3060
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The T2 007 uses a carbide thrust assy with 2 slightly different sized thrust washers (7.8mm & 8.0mm).

This assembly will set you back $20 for one!




My cheaper solution: grade 25 chrome steel balls from ebay $10 shipped for 50 balls. My only concern is these balls measure 1.5mm and the ones used in the thrust assy are 1.55-1.56mm! They snap into that ring holder thingy and I fear that going with a barely smaller ball may cause the balls to simply fall thru and not "snap" onto the ring holder thingy. Get it? So is .05mm make a difference?
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