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Old 05-21-2007, 07:58 PM   #2581
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Originally Posted by killingtime
I thought you were being a little harsh until I went to check a thread I started about a week ago. I was wondering what people were doing to get rid of the wheel chatter when turning. No one could come up with a good answer... now the thread is gone.

Has anyone here come up with a solution??
Wheel chatter? With what? A spool? I don't have any chatter on mine. Whats your setup?
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:25 PM   #2582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBSpence
Thanks Billy. I jumped the gun.

KilRuf - I'm running the basic rubber tire set-up that comes with the car.
I am running a spool ( a little change from thier set-up ), I have the multi-diff outdrive slots opposite from each other, I've tried the Nexxus tricks by grinding down the axle cups and camferring the edges, and I've turned down my steering to 17 degrees. If I turn it down any further I'm worried I won't be able to make it around our track. We typically run technical layouts.
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:38 PM   #2583
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my car has the chatter too! its a US spec
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Old 05-21-2007, 08:56 PM   #2584
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Hmmm. I set my endpoints to just touch lock to lock at 100% dual rate. Then turn down the dual rate to 75% and setup the car from there. I'm running my front arms angled back. Meaning 1.5mm shim up on the Front/Front arm mount. And no shim on the Rear/Front mount. With this setup, you need to remove the outdrive spacers on the Multidiff. If you don't, the blades will bind up the suspension. I also run the Delrin Multidiff center piece. Also, did you add thread lock to the outdrives and uhh.. center piece for the multidiff? This helps keep the outdrives from floating out away from the diff. I think my ackermann setup is steering post to the rear and set to the number 3 position. Steering rods on the rear most hole on the steering knuckle. I think getting the right steering angles helps reduce chatter.
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Old 05-21-2007, 09:59 PM   #2585
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Killingtime, if you are running the 007 there is no reason to chamfer the axle cups, that has already been done on the 007. As for the weel chatter, I am still learning about this car, but how much toe out are you running in the front? Are the outdrive cups should be at different angles, cause they should be. Try taking the Multidiff apart and cleaning everything, a little dirt can cause chatter, also clean and reoil the bearings, there were a few of the first shipment I belive that had a problem with bearings that were not properly lubed, Cleaning them with something like RPMs bearing blaster, and oiling them with some high quality oil (I like Acer Racing Syn). Also check your driveshafts, and make sure they arent bent, even the slightest bit will cause chatter
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Old 05-22-2007, 03:26 AM   #2586
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doesnt anyone use a lube in the cvd joint? i use dry ice by sullivan and it also helps reduce chatter. i prefer a dry lube so it doesnt attract dirt.
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Old 05-22-2007, 06:18 AM   #2587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradopsi
doesnt anyone use a lube in the cvd joint? i use dry ice by sullivan and it also helps reduce chatter. i prefer a dry lube so it doesnt attract dirt.
how is the dry lube works???
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Old 05-22-2007, 08:20 AM   #2588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _pilot_
...as for the Losi and Mi3, I think they have sacrificed handling to be Lipo friendly, I personally want a car with the lowest possible CG...
You think 007 is better than the original T2 because they managed to lover the top deck by a few milimeters? I think since it is a very light part it has very little effect on the CG. To my opinion the US version is better than the T2 because the thick chassis and the redesigned topdeckGEOMETRY the EU is just because of the topdeck geometry. CG lowered a little by shaving off of the bulkheads and changed little to nothing because of the lower topdeck. So I say it is possible to change the design to make a car more lipo friendly without sacrificing handling.

Thanks for the tip on the maxamps 5000, I will take a look at it - I checked the 4000 pack before now that is extremely thin (like 14mm or so).
I have only one pack right now (and run it all day ) I must have a spare anyways...
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:15 AM   #2589
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No prob, the Maxamps fits w/ room to spare, and inside the standard 6 cell designated area.

i have a question about the chassis. I have the Us carpet version but also go the thinner chassis w/ the upper deck EU version(?). Here where I live its strickly outdoor asfalt tracks, should I use the EU version chassis to run the car? I was thinking of using the EU version while here for practice (we don't race electric anymore) but I want to keep the US version to race in a big carpet race sometime next year after they legalize lipo and sensorless motors...( hopefully by next year). Until then I will travel to run my RRR only, but really want to get to go to a big electric race, maybe Las Vegas or something in the future.

SO for asfalt, is the EU version chassis really better?

Thanks
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:54 AM   #2590
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Yes, the EU was made specificaly for asphault. On asphault you want a chassis to have more flex, thats why the EU is 2.5mm, and on carpet because of the high traction and bite, you want a stiffer chassis. Also for carpet racing you will want to use the aluminum hubs, steering blocks, rear uprights, etc.. because they are also stiffer and help on carpet. If you are going to be on asphault the majority of the time, go with the EU chassis, also look into the new 2mm topdeck, it works really well on asphault and carpet too I hear. I wouldn't plan on running lipo at a major race for probably 3-5 years, I dont run brushless so I am unsure about all the variants of them, but to my knowledge they have been allowed in Mod at a few events (IFMAR Worlds, ROAR, etc.)
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:00 AM   #2591
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All right thanks for the update. about the batts/bl situation, I'm in no rush... I'll keep running my nitro till I get the chance to race this set-up.

Thanks
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Old 05-22-2007, 03:59 PM   #2592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B
Killingtime, if you are running the 007 there is no reason to chamfer the axle cups, that has already been done on the 007....
I had the T2 and bought the conversion to EU '007, that's why I ground and edged the cups. Right now I'm running .5* toe-out. Everything else you brought up has been triple checked for problems, without anything found. I'm going to change my ackerman a bit to see if that'll do anything. I'll also turn down the steering another * or two. I know I'm not the only person with this issue. I'm suprised that Xray hasn't come forward and offered a solution
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Old 05-22-2007, 04:18 PM   #2593
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You might try 1deg toe out, I run 1 and so far I havent heard any chatter
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Old 05-22-2007, 05:09 PM   #2594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corradopsi
doesnt anyone use a lube in the cvd joint? i use dry ice by sullivan and it also helps reduce chatter. i prefer a dry lube so it doesnt attract dirt.

The only time my CVDs 'chattered' was when they weren't lubed. So every other run or every two runs I put a drop of bearing lube on the exposed part of the 'barrel' of the cvd. When I started doing this, there wasn't any sign of chatter or binding.
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Old 05-22-2007, 05:18 PM   #2595
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Killingtime, is there any factory drivers at your local track, or an RC guru, who can look at it for you?
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