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Old 05-16-2007, 10:26 AM   #2506
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Anyone got any ideas on how to get more high speed steering (through a fast long corner). Steering through technical part of the track is ok. (using rubber tyres on asphalt)

Thanks
Increase the caster and/or increase the droop on both ends of the car.
Also, you might want to post your setup to the XRAY forum to give people a better idea of what you are running.
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:55 AM   #2507
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Default Set up Sheet

Dane,

Thanks for reply & set up sheet is below.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...1&setup=t2_007

Thanks
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:56 AM   #2508
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when we say increase the droop.. it means that the car will have more between the chassis and the droop screw b4 the car leaves off the ground?
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Old 05-16-2007, 11:17 AM   #2509
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Correct. Droop is often measured in up-travel. This means that at say, 5 mm of ride height, the amount the car can go up before the tires lift off the ground is your droop setting. This is often somewhere around 2-3 mm for rubber tires, and 0.5-1.5 mm for foam.
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Old 05-16-2007, 12:17 PM   #2510
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Hi Hugo: Going to the inside hole in the rear arm does soften the rear of the car (oil and spring) which will obviously allows the rear end to roll more. weather it is better or worse depends on the rest of the car. but it is definately a good tuning adjustment.

I always use all of the screws in the bottom of the chasis with the exception of the one screw in front of the motor, and i also do not use the scew directly above it on the top deck.

In general i think that with the battery foreward the car will be the most stable in almost every wich way, but i think will tend to push in the center of the courner more. with the batterys back i think that you will find that the car will turn more overall and may be harder to drive threw switch backs, it sucks to rebuild your packs but i would not be hesitent to try a 3rear 2front split.

Im not totally an expert on this but maybe try using something elts after using tweak like fx2 or something, but whatever you use always make sure that the tires are dry before running, if they feel greasy try letting them sit for a little extra after and they may tack up. hope this helps paul
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Old 05-16-2007, 12:26 PM   #2511
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Hey Paul,

How do you approach downstops and droop? I've heard that downstop settings are basically to get the car equal and then you can adjust droop from there.

Which number do you set the downstops to on the gauge for rubber asphalt?
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Old 05-16-2007, 01:36 PM   #2512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. MR4
Anyone got any ideas on how to get more high speed steering (through a fast long corner). Steering through technical part of the track is ok. (using rubber tyres on asphalt)

Thanks
Here's a few other things to try in order:

* Add 2mm of shims under the rear outer camber links to raise the rear roll center slightly
* Change rear arm hinge pin mount positions to 0 (middle) to raise the rear roll center significantly
* If you have them, try the 2d alum rear hubs and change the rear in-board toe-in to 1d in order to sweep the rear arms back more while maintaining the overall rear toe-in of 3d. This causes more camber gain by both rear wheels as the rear end compresses under acceleration, therefore reducing the overall contact patch of both rear tires. In testing this, I've noticed an increase in controllable rear-end rotation while on-power.
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Old 05-16-2007, 02:23 PM   #2513
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team gp - thanks

will try them out.
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Old 05-16-2007, 02:34 PM   #2514
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Hi Dane, I do it a little different than most do, in this order.

#1 back off the spring collars all the way, also back off the droop screws all the way(full droop).

#2 mark the shock collars with a sharpie, then turn the shocks equaly, (front shocks the same, rear shocks the same) to achieve your ride height to whatever you want.

#3 then i tweak the car or ajust the colars to make the car ballanced. If the right rear is light I will turn all 4 shock collars to make it ballanced. So instead of turning the RR shock 1 turn in i will turn the RR in 1/4th along with the LF and turn out the LR 1/4th along with the RF. This is to achieve the same thing without just jacking one shock.

#4 after this all then I set my droop, by lifting the car by the center of the chassis keeping the tires lifting off of the ground at the same time. and as a measurement i speak of it as 1 or 2 or 3mms above ride height. So if you have 5mms ride height with 2mms of droop you will beable to set a 7mm step under the car and the tires will just barely be touching the ground.

keep in mind that if you do not do the ride height first and bring the droop in last( from FULL droop) you will not have good results.

But overall for rubber tire asphalt i expect to usually use around 2.5mms above ride height in the front and rear. Give or take .5mms front or rear.

sorry for the long explination. paul
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Old 05-16-2007, 04:00 PM   #2515
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Hey guys just an FYI .......be carefull who you get your info from on the net. There are lots of people out there that think they know what they are talking about.

I don't know who this Paul L guy is that keeps giving out setup help.I bet he can't even get out of his own way.(thats how most of these people are)

So the bottom line is listen to people that you know are fast.....not just some Paul dude on this site.
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Old 05-16-2007, 04:04 PM   #2516
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So I'm getting my car setup for 5 cell...should I put my tumbleweed on the motor or battery side of the car?
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Old 05-16-2007, 04:21 PM   #2517
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thanks guys lol.

steve: duh battery side
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Old 05-16-2007, 06:47 PM   #2518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L
thanks guys lol.

steve: duh battery side
Looks more on the motor side to me...
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Old 05-17-2007, 06:58 AM   #2519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. MR4
team gp - thanks

will try them out.
Hey, hey, hey...get this Paul dudes recommendations as well. I've seen him in action and I know he's fast.
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Old 05-18-2007, 05:01 AM   #2520
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Default oils

Just a quick question
With regaurd to the new cps shock oil.
If i want 25w oil is that equal to the new 250w cps oil.
Is there some table which i can compare oils so i know whats what, or is it as simple as 30w is equal to 300w and 25w is equal to 250w and so on.
thanks!!
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Last edited by NOOB-SMOKE; 05-18-2007 at 08:18 AM.
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