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Old 05-14-2007, 11:24 AM   #2491
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Ghost Rider: i would start looking over your tire program compaired to your friends. i know that you said that you are on the same tires as him but very small differences in wheels, inserts, number of runs, compounding routine makes a huge difference. im not saying that your car is perfect and it is all tires, I think that it is a combo of alot of things.I think that Joep is very correct about getting on the x-ray web site, especially in two weeks when the reedy race is over, I think that the team will figure out alot their. so be sure to check that out. also another small tip almost everybody these days run their wing mounted well back on the shell, like atleast 10mm behind the bumper. look at these things if you have not already. Thans paul
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Old 05-14-2007, 12:30 PM   #2492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L
...also another small tip almost everybody these days run their wing mounted well back on the shell, like atleast 10mm behind the bumper. look at these things if you have not already. Thans paul
Aah. Didn't know about the wing-tip (pun intended). I've been running mine just a few mm behind the bumper, but will definitely mount it further back and try it out. Thanks!
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Old 05-15-2007, 05:49 AM   #2493
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i'll race modified using T2'007 EU with Mazda speed 6 body shell, the track is very wide open asphalt, i've already dialed with the track, i have grip & steering...but don't have enough speed event with optimum final ratio using Kr 8x2 motor. the other option is to lower the drag in the straight line. on the rear wing there is mark that i can make 4 hole on the wing, can those holes can give me an extra speed at straight line??? thx
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Old 05-15-2007, 06:01 AM   #2494
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t4m1y: That will give you a little bit of straight line speed but i dont think that it will be what you are looking for atall, in my opinion it may not even be noticible. I assume that your care of the motor is good, I think that a motor like that would have to be cut every 2 batterys and brushed after around 4 batterys. other than that you may concider a new motor or armature like a 7T but beware of other possible problems with heat and things when using a 7t.
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Old 05-15-2007, 06:07 AM   #2495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L
t4m1y: That will give you a little bit of straight line speed but i dont think that it will be what you are looking for atall, in my opinion it may not even be noticible. I assume that your care of the motor is good, I think that a motor like that would have to be cut every 2 batterys and brushed after around 4 batterys. other than that you may concider a new motor or armature like a 7T but beware of other possible problems with heat and things when using a 7t.
ok thanks....
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Old 05-15-2007, 06:48 AM   #2496
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Question to Paul L: (I run rubber outdoor)

Hello Paul :
-What does it change to the handling when you put the shock on the inner hole of the rear arm?
-Do you prefer the handling of the car with or without the multiflex screw under the chassis when there is a good grip and a hot track temperature?
-I run 5 cells. How do you decide to put the battery on the back or on the front???
-Last question : I've noticed that when I use tyre tweak on a very warm track 50C or more the car tend to have no grip...I have better results when I don't use additive on a warm track...Any advice?

Thanks in advance

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Old 05-15-2007, 07:14 AM   #2497
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Getting up early Paul? Even you have to fight for a spot at the IIC
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:50 AM   #2498
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Hugo, moving the shock mount to the inner hole on the bottom will stiffen up the suspension
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Old 05-15-2007, 12:01 PM   #2499
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Actually, no, moving the shock to the inside hole on the arm will make the suspension softer as the arm has more leverage on the shock. To get the same amount of progressiveness as you had with the shock on the outer hole, lean the shock in a hole or two on the tower.
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Old 05-15-2007, 01:58 PM   #2500
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Well according to everything I have ever experianced and read, the more upright the shock, the harder the dampening and spring.
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:04 PM   #2501
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Big B you are correct in thinking that a more stood up shock will be "stiffer"...but what you are not taking into account is that you are positioning the shock further in on the arm... a change that is far more drastic in this case than the overall shock angle.

Imagine it like this:

Think about trying to push open a heavy door. It is easier to push it open from the opposite side of the hinges than it is to push it open from right near the hinges.

It all has to do with the amount of leverage on the arm. The outside hole in the arm has more leverage so it feels stiffer... the inside hole on the arm has less leverage so it feel softer.

I hope this makes sense
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:06 AM   #2502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B
Well according to everything I have ever experianced and read, the more upright the shock, the harder the dampening and spring.
This rule of thumb really only applies to moving the upper mounting position. The dampening really doesn't change either. Just the spring effects.

With the lower mounting position here is a better understanding for either end of the car:

Inward position (shocks more upright)

* Less leverage of the spring = softer feel = more chassis roll = more front/rear pitching of weight
* More linear spring rate = quicker action = usually less mid-corner side bite

Outward position (shocks more layed down)

* More leverage of the spring = stiffer feel = less chassis roll = less front/rear pitching of weight
* More progressive spring rate = slower action = usually more mid-corner side bite

From the 1:1 racing guru's, it is always better to mount the lower end as close to the wheel hub as possible (outward). This allows the shock dampening to handle the track surface irregularities better and usually gives better overall grip. You may end up with softer spring rates and oil/piston setups though.

With wider foam tires, sometimes it is necessary to use the inward positions so the rims don't rub on the lower shock mounts though.

Keep in mind that depending on your cars overall weight distribution and setup, either of these options could work on either end of the car. You just have to take the time to test on the track.
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:29 AM   #2503
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Hello guys. I am thinking about getting a 007 for next carpet season (assuming xray doesn't put out a 008) and was wondering if any of the Orion Lipo batteries fit. The 4800 I am going to assume doesn't fit (it's rather boxy and tall), but what about the new 3200?
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:58 AM   #2504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
Hello guys. I am thinking about getting a 007 for next carpet season (assuming xray doesn't put out a 008) and was wondering if any of the Orion Lipo batteries fit. The 4800 I am going to assume doesn't fit (it's rather boxy and tall), but what about the new 3200?
You're in luck! My friend at Nexus Racing published this how-to on Lipos:
http://nexusracing.net/newsdesk_info...fb5d7a146c63fe
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:10 AM   #2505
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Anyone got any ideas on how to get more high speed steering (through a fast long corner). Steering through technical part of the track is ok. (using rubber tyres on asphalt)

Thanks
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