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Old 04-29-2007, 09:34 AM   #2416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunlocators
It seems to not be turning egnough if you put my son tc4 on same transmitter same settings and my xray and just turn a sharp circl his turns much more tighter. Mine darn near needs the entire with of the straight away to make a turn where his takes about 1/3 of it. I do not understand why it would not have a tighter turn radius. I think this is whats killing me in the corners that are tighter cause even if I am going really slow in the turns it seems I do not have egnough steering. I am talking just practicing running the course less than half throttle it seem It cannot make sharp turns. Now if i go really fast in a sharp turn I can slide the back end and clear the turn but doing that everytime is a bit difficult for my drive style
first set a different profile on your radio for the xray , and work your way from there setting the steering rates on the EPA and dual rate and make sure that you have the same turning radius from left to right and right to left, xray vs tc4 setting are totally different so work your way from there.
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Old 04-29-2007, 10:23 AM   #2417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo
Well, I mean its hard to believe that all the electrics will make the car slam 1.5mm, let alone slam it to bottom out as you claim. Are you positive this will happen? I have loaded the chassis with some weight to give the effect but no luck!

Update: i added a servo, motor and Rx to the chassis still need a Li-po pack and ESC. Without the battery&ESC I measure 5mm ride height in the rear and that is as LOW as it gets. Im stuck.
B18c Turbo, it can be done dude the battery accounts for quite a bit of weight, this is race ready and decked with the shocks topped out the tires are lrp v-tec 24's which i belive are 63mm (not 100% on that and don't have my calipers to check em right now)



get all the bits you still need and check that you've used the correct shock ends from the kit if remember correctly they come with more the 1 kind. Hope this helps
nearly forgot there's also 20g of wieght to bring it up to 1500g
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Old 04-29-2007, 11:46 AM   #2418
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i dont know if im using the right shock ends on this car! What is your total free length of the shock, mine is 65mm!
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Old 04-29-2007, 12:19 PM   #2419
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Anyone know if you can buy the "mounting parts" for the sway bars? i.e. just the plastic pieced that bolt on the bulkheads? All I can seem to locate is the front or rear complete sway bar kits.
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Old 04-29-2007, 12:25 PM   #2420
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http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...0Bar%20Holders
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Old 04-29-2007, 12:28 PM   #2421
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https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...s&pn=XRA303411
are these what you are looking for?
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Old 04-29-2007, 12:36 PM   #2422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...s&pn=XRA303411
are these what you are looking for?
Yep!!! kewl ...thanks!
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Old 04-29-2007, 01:11 PM   #2423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo
i dont know if im using the right shock ends on this car! What is your total free length of the shock, mine is 65mm!
I'm not sure about the shock length right now, but you should be running the short shock ends #308316.
The longer ends included are for the FK05.
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Old 04-29-2007, 02:15 PM   #2424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo
i dont know if im using the right shock ends on this car! What is your total free length of the shock, mine is 65mm!
sorry dude i haven't got anything to measure them with at the moment but iirc they are 63-64mm, by the sounds of it your using the wrong shock ends try the other ones that came with the kit
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Old 04-29-2007, 03:35 PM   #2425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
I'm not sure about the shock length right now, but you should be running the short shock ends #308316.
The longer ends included are for the FK05.
Oh man 63-64mm sounds like Im using the wrong shock ends. Well I bought the car used so I will have to buy these other ends from my LHS. Thanks!
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Old 04-29-2007, 10:07 PM   #2426
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such a popular car, how come this forum is dead?
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Old 04-30-2007, 08:23 AM   #2427
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i think you'll find it's been out for a while now and all the early q's have been answered and people are out enjoying them now!!
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Old 04-30-2007, 05:31 PM   #2428
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"back the droop screws out to get tons of droop (don't want droop screws messing with the ride height setting).

set ride height. push car down to surface, let go, measure under back end of chassis and under side of chassis just behind front arms. Use shock collars to set ride height. left and right shock collars should be very close. If one side of chassis is lower than other, you can make small side-to-side collar adjustment to level it.

set rear droop. lift rear of car by shock tower until one wheel just lifts from the surface. Measure the chassis' height at rear end. Difference between this height and ride height is droop. Turn in droop screws to lessen droop. Keep adjusting screws until both tires pick up exactly at the right chassis height (in this case, 5.5mm).

set front droop. same procedure. lift on front shock tower, watch or feel for one tire lifting off surface, then measure chassis height (just behind front arms). Again, adjust screws so both tires lift at 5.5mm."




This is a way I adjust the cars tweak by lifting the front and rear and seeing if both tires lift up at the same time, though I adjust with the spring collar, should it be done this way or with downstop screws?
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Old 04-30-2007, 05:40 PM   #2429
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Has anybody installed the EU Conversion on their T2?
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Old 04-30-2007, 06:05 PM   #2430
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Christian, that technique does not check for tweak. Tweak means the car has uneven weight distribution when at ride height. You need a system that checks the weight on each wheel at ride height to check for tweak (such as four scales, or balance beams).
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