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Old 02-28-2007, 10:36 PM   #2026
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Hey Guys, I am getting a 007 Euro, and I was wondering if anyone uses a aluminum antenna mount, and if so what kinds work (gs, dynamite, integy, etc), and did you have to modifiy the chassis at all? I saw a tip in XRC that said to use a clamping antenna mount,
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:05 PM   #2027
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Hi all, I am thinking of selling off my Evo2 and picking up a 007.
What are your general likes and dislikes of this car.


Thanks
Jack
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:29 PM   #2028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackh
Hi all, I am thinking of selling off my Evo2 and picking up a 007.
What are your general likes and dislikes of this car.


Thanks
Jack
cant really think of a dislike other than its not red, but thats just cause i like red anodizing.
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:34 PM   #2029
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I just started building my T2. What a great kit. The only issue I'm having is bleeding the shocks. After assembling per the instructions. I turned them upside down and released the end cap (the 1/8 turn one. I let them sit for about 15 minutes. After reinstalling the the end caps the shaft rebounded almost fully. Any tips/tricks?
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Old 03-01-2007, 03:02 PM   #2030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big B
Hey Guys, I am getting a 007 Euro, and I was wondering if anyone uses a aluminum antenna mount, and if so what kinds work (gs, dynamite, integy, etc), and did you have to modifiy the chassis at all? I saw a tip in XRC that said to use a clamping antenna mount,
The included antenna mount works great Brian.
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Old 03-01-2007, 03:13 PM   #2031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
The included antenna mount works great Brian.
I second that. I used to have all kind of aluminum antenna mounts...and now ending up with stock one.
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Old 03-01-2007, 03:16 PM   #2032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lextek
I just started building my T2. What a great kit. The only issue I'm having is bleeding the shocks. After assembling per the instructions. I turned them upside down and released the end cap (the 1/8 turn one. I let them sit for about 15 minutes. After reinstalling the the end caps the shaft rebounded almost fully. Any tips/tricks?
Try pulling back on that cap a little bit to unseat it. I also pump the shock a few times really slow when it's like this too. Then extend the shafts, turn upside down, and leave it for about 5 min. Then close and check rebound. continue this process untill the desired amount of rebound is achieved.

-Korey
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Old 03-01-2007, 04:32 PM   #2033
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I haven't totally mastered the shocks, but in my experience the 'wait for gravity' technique is a bad one. I
-overfill the shocks (i.e. they have too much rebound)
-turn it upside down
-remove the bottom cap (slide it up the shaft, to the shaft collar, with the oring)
-push the shaft in. this increases internal pressure, causing oil (and air!) to come out. Push in a lot --> lots of oil coming out, until the rebound is very small. Push in a little --> little oil comes out, lots of rebound left.

I then put the cap back on, check rebound, and if it's too much I remove more oil. If I went to far, I re-fill and start over.
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:35 PM   #2034
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UPDATE: I LOVE MY T2'007 EU!!


Just though i would share my review
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Old 03-01-2007, 06:00 PM   #2035
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Thanks Anthony and Kumpol

Last edited by Big B; 03-01-2007 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:36 PM   #2036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOOB-SMOKE
When you steering is set at 16.5d/14.0d is that even with a spool ?
Good point. I've only run the diff and one-way up front on both asphalt and carpet. Not sure about the spool.
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Old 03-01-2007, 08:56 PM   #2037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416
the fastest driver at my lhs puts his car in the tightest lane of the track and sets his dual rate to be able to make a full circle in it. i'm thinking he does this because if he hits the board or is hit in the tightest spot in the track he will be able to turn around, but what i get from what you are saying is that he must be settting his car according to that steering. please clarify
Yep. A lot of drivers do that as well. Its really a matter of individual driver preference and skill. I'm personally a little ham fisted and have never been able to get away from using full lock on the transmitter. So I set my EPA/dual rate to where the car turns tight at full lock, but does not oversteer. I also make sure that it can turn around within the tightest sections of the track though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo416
since it looks like you really know what you are talking about i have another question if you don't mind.

1-why is it with the 2 stage wraps double pink&orange in front and double pink in the rear, the front tires are wearing at least 1.5 millimeters more than the rear. this is using:
ride height- 4.5mm fr & rr
camber- 1.5degrees fr & rr
caster- 4degrees fr
toe- .5 fr, 2degrees rr
droop- .5mm fr, 1mm rr (both over ride heght)
the rest of the setup is stock.
this is for foam on carpet using a 19T Checkpoint
Flacks right about the front pushing and using 6d caster c-hubs. Here are a few other things to consider:

* Increase front camber to 2.0d
* Change front droop to 1mm over ride height. In my experience, anything less than 1mm actually compresses the front springs and in effect *stiffens* the front end more.
* The Checkpoints torque out of corners, and especially in sweepers, is going to want to plow the front end into the ground. This may be the case here in which you'll want to actually stand up the front shocks. If it is, you'll find that you won't actually lose front traction, but instead gain corner speed.
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:14 AM   #2038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
Good point. I've only run the diff and one-way up front on both asphalt and carpet. Not sure about the spool.
Going to try it in a few weeks. Will report back on that.
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Old 03-02-2007, 07:24 AM   #2039
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asphalt set up is on the car and I'm ready for action tomorrow. All of my testing will be in mod. I hope to have some good set up info for everyone after Saturday's race.
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Old 03-02-2007, 07:55 AM   #2040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joep
Going to try it in a few weeks. Will report back on that.
I forgot that I have tried the solid one-way and played with the steering. Since it acts like a spool on-power, I did find out that the more the inside front wheel is turned, the more on-power steering you'll have. The same applied to the diff up front.

Its actually opposite for the one-way. I had to reduce ackerman (and difference in steering arce between the inside & outside wheels) and then increase the EPA/dual rate to turn the outside wheel more and gain on-power steering. If you have the inside wheel turned too far, it causes abrupt oversteer with the one-way.
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