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Old 02-03-2007, 10:51 AM   #1816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamButter
Wow...4 serpent shocks weigh the same as the stock plastic Xray shocks...

That's some quality plastic.....guess thats why Xray shock bodies don't break!
I've broken a XRAY shock body! The great part is they come on parts trees with a ton of other parts I might need (like bottom shock collars). Yeah, I'm proud of that. It was a helluva crash. Mod race into a sweeper corner marked by a Road Rail corner dot, I went between two slower guys, touched one, was pushed into the dot, launched, I think hit the other car in mid air, and hit the wall about two feet up. Broke an arm, the inner camber link captured end, and a shock body (all on the same front corner).

BTW, I bought replacement captured ends for that inner camber link. I definitely bought the right ones and put them on the right way (there's a dot on these ones), but it has more slop than the ones that came 'assembled' in the kit. Any thoughts? Should I break this one off and put a new one on, but this time heat up the captured end first?

-Adam
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Old 02-03-2007, 10:56 AM   #1817
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Adamge-Never really had an issue with the rear camber link "slop" maybe before breaking it off you can heat the one that is on?? Guys/Gals any other suggestions???
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Old 02-03-2007, 03:03 PM   #1818
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Originally Posted by TeamButter
The plastic is in fact now stronger....I must say however, I have never broken a shock body in 3 years!! You guys must have gotten P-U-N-T-E-D!!!
Kewl ...ok I'll just stay with the plastic and see how she fairs. Yea both my breaks were victims of some serious wrecks.
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Old 02-04-2007, 12:43 AM   #1819
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Originally Posted by Joep
If you want to use alu shocks I can advise you to use the short Serpent shocks
with the xray ball joints at the piston:



http://www.serpent.com/product/903164

They are very easy to fill & bleed. The only thing you won't have is adjustability without refilling.

I use them now for 4 months and I'm very happy with them.
Will thease fit a t2 007 us edtion and are the pistons the same size.
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:26 AM   #1820
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I just wanted to mention that I have had no problems with the plastic shock bodies. When I got my first t2 I thought it was kinda cheap, but they have worked great.
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Old 02-04-2007, 09:32 AM   #1821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al jones
Will thease fit a t2 007 us edtion and are the pistons the same size.
The code 903164 fit no problem to a T2007

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Old 02-04-2007, 12:43 PM   #1822
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after doing my battery slots i am still .030 above the bottom of the chassis, and i am scared to take anymore material away using the dremal and round bit described in this forum.......is this acceptable, or do i need to find a way to get tem exactly flush? one other note, i am using 4200 calls with extra shrink wrap from pro-match, but my old batteries fit a little better without the extra shrink, i was hoping to get a happy medium so i can use both without hanging below the chassis
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Old 02-04-2007, 12:43 PM   #1823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nnick
The code 903164 fit no problem to a T2007

Nick
Just a note here:
I bought the 903165 (rear set of the serpent 720) for the FK05. Those are too long for the T2. You definitely need the front set for the T2!

So
- 903164 for t2 and T2'007
- 903165 for FK05 and earlier models

great shocks by the way, takes about 4 minutes to rebuild and bleed them.
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Old 02-04-2007, 01:32 PM   #1824
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Hey guys. Foam/carpet setup question. Does anyone else find that running -2 degrees front camber (6 deg caster, Quick Roll Center Position 1, 0mm outer camber link shim) leads to heavily coned front tires? I've started running -1 front camber to get the wear a little flatter. -2 in the rear isn't a problem (outer link on the hub, 3mm outer shim, QRCP 1).

I'm not really willing to run -2 deg front camber and true the tires every four or so runs to flatten them out.
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Old 02-04-2007, 02:25 PM   #1825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamge
Hey guys. Foam/carpet setup question. Does anyone else find that running -2 degrees front camber (6 deg caster, Quick Roll Center Position 1, 0mm outer camber link shim) leads to heavily coned front tires? I've started running -1 front camber to get the wear a little flatter. -2 in the rear isn't a problem (outer link on the hub, 3mm outer shim, QRCP 1).

I'm not really willing to run -2 deg front camber and true the tires every four or so runs to flatten them out.
I also run -1 to get flat tire wear.
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Old 02-04-2007, 02:40 PM   #1826
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looking for ways to decrease the overall weight of my T2' 007 US. I know that the BMI chassis plate is 3mm thick while the Xray one is 3.5mm. Does anybody happen to know how much is the weight difference? I guess the BMI must be lighter.
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Old 02-04-2007, 04:55 PM   #1827
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funny thing is,i just weighed it for a customer who called and asked me that.i think it was 15 grams lighter than the stock chassis.major brain fart on my part.it was just last week.i must be losing my mind.i will check it again.
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Old 02-04-2007, 11:09 PM   #1828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamge
Hey guys. Foam/carpet setup question. Does anyone else find that running -2 degrees front camber (6 deg caster, Quick Roll Center Position 1, 0mm outer camber link shim) leads to heavily coned front tires? I've started running -1 front camber to get the wear a little flatter. -2 in the rear isn't a problem (outer link on the hub, 3mm outer shim, QRCP 1).

I'm not really willing to run -2 deg front camber and true the tires every four or so runs to flatten them out.
1d or even 0.5d of camber is about right for 6d c-hubs. Especially if the carpet traction is low to medium grip. Having too much EPA/dual rate with those c-hubs can cause excessive coning as well.

The more caster you have, the more camber the wheels gain as you turn away from center. Starting at 2d camber with 6d caster c-hubs, at full lock your tires are probably around 3.5d to 5d of camber.
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Old 02-05-2007, 08:40 AM   #1829
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Does anybody sell complete titanium screw set for the T2? Or, is there metric titanium screws out there which are cheaper than the ones speedtechrc has on stock?
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Old 02-05-2007, 09:54 AM   #1830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvt01
Does anybody sell complete titanium screw set for the T2? Or, is there metric titanium screws out there which are cheaper than the ones speedtechrc has on stock?
You can get one for the old T1FK. It has most of what you'll need.
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