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Old 01-23-2007, 10:09 AM   #1621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
Putting a silver can in a 007 is like buying a Ferrari and putting a civic motor in it.
I know it seems strange, but they had a GT class (fun class) this weekend at the WCICS Lethbridge race. You can only run a Silver Can motor and rubber tires with any chassis. It made for some very sweet racing. It was fun to watch! I want to race in it next year!
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Old 01-23-2007, 10:16 AM   #1622
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Thanks for the replies to my question everyone. Much appreciated.
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Old 01-23-2007, 10:24 AM   #1623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nexus Racing
You shouldn't turn over the XRAY diff rings (per XRAY)...they come slightly scuffed on one side to prevent the diff outdrive from slipping against the ring.
Where did you find this information? It's not that I don't trust it, I just have never seen it anywhere.
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Old 01-23-2007, 11:15 AM   #1624
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Originally Posted by AChupp2
Where did you find this information? It's not that I don't trust it, I just have never seen it anywhere.
Here; discovered it when uploading the products to our e-shop.
When examining the rings closely, the difference is indeed noticeable .
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Old 01-23-2007, 12:22 PM   #1625
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Thats some great info, when I get my euro 007 I will be sure to break in that rear diff, also in regards to the CA glueing, if you use tape to hold down your batts its a good idea to CA the tape slots, or you could cut the tape, it has been my experiance with CF to do every exposed edge, those splinters hurt
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Old 01-23-2007, 12:38 PM   #1626
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Should the screws that attach the arms to the bulkheads be fully tightened without binding the arms? Should I instead tighten them fully and tap the back of the arms to free them?

Thanks
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Old 01-23-2007, 02:28 PM   #1627
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Nexus, I know the ring sides were different on the original T1, and the date on the listing you mention was May 2001. I may be wrong, but I don't think it applies to the current version even if it has the same part #. In any event I've changed sides on the 05 and 007 without problems.
Perhaps someone from XRAY can clarify, teamgp???
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Old 01-23-2007, 02:47 PM   #1628
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The original reason for the rough side of the rings was to provide consistent diff action. If both sides were polished you would have to crank down on the diff to get it tight enough to function properly. The problem was that you had to tighten so hard you could flat spot the diff balls and score the rings.
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Old 01-23-2007, 02:55 PM   #1629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamButter
The original reason for the rough side of the rings was to provide consistent diff action. If both sides were polished you would have to crank down on the diff to get it tight enough to function properly. The problem was that you had to tighten so hard you could flat spot the diff balls and score the rings.
Butter has spoken!!!
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:14 PM   #1630
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Butter, the question is, are they still like that? I just looked at a pair of NIB diff washers I have, and I can't see a difference between the surface of the two sides.

I also had a rough diff, so yesterday I sanded (600 grit) both washers on the side the balls run on until they were track-less. I'll run this diff this weekend and find out how well that worked.
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:17 PM   #1631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dane
Should the screws that attach the arms to the bulkheads be fully tightened without binding the arms? Should I instead tighten them fully and tap the back of the arms to free them?

Thanks
That's exactly what you should do!
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:25 PM   #1632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c-lyon
Nexus, I know the ring sides were different on the original T1, and the date on the listing you mention was May 2001. I may be wrong, but I don't think it applies to the current version even if it has the same part #. In any event I've changed sides on the 05 and 007 without problems.
Perhaps someone from XRAY can clarify, teamgp???
The difference between the sides is very faint, but as far as I can tell, still there. I accidentally flipped a ring on a new T2 in June, and that diff became "crunchy"...as soon as I flipped the ring back, the diff was fine!
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:37 PM   #1633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dane
Should the screws that attach the arms to the bulkheads be fully tightened without binding the arms? Should I instead tighten them fully and tap the back of the arms to free them?
Thanks
You can also try pushing the arm (gently) toward the screw you're tightening so that the pivot pin holder itself doesn't turn while tightening the screw...
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Old 01-23-2007, 08:43 PM   #1634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
I'll have my spare 4300 if you need it as well (same one you used at the NWCC)

....Alexia is on her way, according to USPS website should take 2 days and she was shipped yesterday ...so should have plenty of time to throw the STLNLST setup on her and electrocnis with the 4300.
Charlie said both of my motors shipped today so I expect to see them by Thursday. If not I'll take the loaner just so I don't have to cut a motor.
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Old 01-24-2007, 10:10 AM   #1635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST
Charlie said both of my motors shipped today so I expect to see them by Thursday. If not I'll take the loaner just so I don't have to cut a motor.

If I were you I wouldn't believe anything Suangka says!! LMFAO!!!
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