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Old 02-07-2003, 05:32 PM   #16
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If i had a TC3 i'd definitely go for the alum shaft. Its stronger, spins truer, and looks trick . The only AE driver at the Novak TC champs that DIDN'T run a alum shaft was Brian Lutz.
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Old 02-08-2003, 04:13 PM   #17
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Oh I'm sorry for the wrong info then. A worker at a local hobby shop races Tc3's and he told me that FACtory drivers drive with the carbon graphite shaft.
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:25 AM   #18
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Default HELP!!! how did this happen???

Was just putting together my TC3 this morning.. This is a ORCA TCpro esc a 17.5 speedpassion V3 motor a YEAH racing 3200mach 20c lipo and somehow holding the car in the air .. aka wheels not on the ground and pulling to 100% throttle for a second? maybe two? the SHAFT [email protected]#$??

I am stunned - How does a 17.5 brushless (AKA stock brushed) motor do this to the shaft?????





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Old 12-27-2012, 12:29 PM   #19
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(1) you shouldn't reply to decade old threads, start a new one.

(2) you are running a speed control with timing (ramping, boost, whatever you want to call it). You probably exceeded the rpm limits of the shaft. next time, don't free rev it. A 17.5 with ramped timing has WAY more RPM than any "stock brushed" motor.
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:15 PM   #20
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That happens when you run foam spacers at the ends of the driveshaft. You should remove them both, and let the driveshaft float. You'll realize that the driveshaft now moves back and forth as hit the gas and decelerate instead of bending, thereby releasing some of the energy. Under extreme bench tests , the driveshaft might wooble a bit ,but will comeback to its original position. The biotech titanium driveshaft , if floating, does not wobble at all, but if it is not floating will also bend the same way. I don't know why they made these foam spacers in the first place, since they add axial load to the input cup Bearings...
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:17 PM   #21
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I meant the Niftech titanium shafts don't bend, if floating...
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:05 PM   #22
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Ahhh I had rubber o-rings in each end, back in the day that was the way it was built, but I have never before had this issue.

SO this can just happen with too much rpm? wow... The timing on the motor is set to +10 and the esc is set to 0' because of blinky.

I have a spare aluminum and a spare carbon. I put the carbon in.. but your suggesting bertrands that I have no foam or orings etc in the cups? ok..

James

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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
That happens when you run foam spacers at the ends of the driveshaft. You should remove them both, and let the driveshaft float. You'll realize that the driveshaft now moves back and forth as hit the gas and decelerate instead of bending, thereby releasing some of the energy. Under extreme bench tests , the driveshaft might wooble a bit ,but will comeback to its original position. The biotech titanium driveshaft , if floating, does not wobble at all, but if it is not floating will also bend the same way. I don't know why they made these foam spacers in the first place, since they add axial load to the input cup Bearings...
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:11 PM   #23
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you definitely don't want any pressure on the shaft from the o-rings or any kind of inserts in the drive cups. There needs to be at least enough space that even when you hit something (another car, the wall) and the chassis flexes, the driveshaft still won't get bound up.

If it does gets bound up, all it can do is bow; and once it bows at speed, the balance will be thrown off and it will just bow more and more until it self-damages just like yours did.

If you truly had your ESC set to zero timing advance/no ramping/no boost/etc.; then bertrandsv87 must be right that you had it bound up too tight.
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Old 12-27-2012, 06:10 PM   #24
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There was space .. you know in the outdrives of an offroad car in the day you would put the o-ring in there as a cushion ... thats what it was like, the shaft could move a bit forward and back.. maybe 4 or 5mm.. anyway.. done now.. it was going fast .. I was pretty amazed for the setup how fast it seemed to be going.. anyway... hope I dont do it again.
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:42 PM   #25
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Yes I meant absolutely nothing in the input cups.... Also you'll need to make sure your input cup Bearings are good, and that nothing touches them or the driveshaft(ie steering bolt & steering turnbuckle)... Lastly, make sure you run LCD drives(#losa3344) in front if you run a spool up there: it will also reduce driveline vibrations.....
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Old 12-28-2012, 11:59 AM   #26
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That kind of bending is excessive though...
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