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Old 09-05-2006, 08:46 AM   #16
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I purchased one of the first tc3's about 8 or 9 years ago. since then I have stopped tc racing, except for Tamiya TCS. I too am thinking about races some club races. I dusted off my tc3 which I had converted to a Drifter. I will tell you this, this cars is arguably one of the easiest cars to work on. I went thru the entire care in about three hours, rebuilt or cleaned and lubed the diffs. 8 outboard bearings and all four shocks. unscrew 6 diff cover screws, release the shocks, lift case cover and remove diff, and or drive shaft and spur. about 5 minutes total. Try that with a yokomo, or tamiya, even with a rear diff cover, I can't speak for the other tourers for these are all I have owned.

I think my barely used sorex 36's are still good but will p/u a set of cs27's
and will use a brushless untill I can purchase a couple of the new stock Trinity XXX stock motores. and some 4200 batteries. maybe some lipos.

I will be using the Barry Baker set up he used to win the Tamiya Reedy race a couple of years ago. although will change to softer on the springs. from red/blue to gold/silver

the iconic Proto Form Stratus body is still the tc body to beat, but personally I prefer tamiya because they are scale replicas of an actual car. any way this should be enough to have fun until I decide on which tourer will next fit my needs.
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:59 PM   #17
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You TC3 guys should check out DiggityDesigns.com. I've run nothing but X-Rays for the last couple years. Now that I run an XLR8, the FK05 W/ BMI chassis sits on the shelf, collecting dust. It's as smooth as any belt car out there.
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Old 09-05-2006, 02:44 PM   #18
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But for what it's worth, some of these drivers claim the belt cars are worth an extra lap or two............................................... .................................................. ........................
If the above were a true statement, I'd be able to go to a belt car and be a lap faster at least that some real fast guys, and i run with some of the quickest guys in the country at my home track!!!!!!! the car is competitive as any but the key to it is you have to keep it in shape and thats where the challenge lies, figure out it's temperment and you can, with confidence, put it down and compete with anything out there.....
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Old 09-05-2006, 02:57 PM   #19
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Do you guys think this is a good chassis layout to distrube the tc3 weight? You wouldn't have to do much since its a better balence of the weight since the battery side of the chassis is already heavy. Also Widening the motor hole makes for better cooling but does it actuually work?

I also probably should suggest using the NTC3 Steering rack if you do get the TC3 so you keep the rocks from preventing you to steer.
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Old 09-05-2006, 03:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santinuchi
If the above were a true statement, I'd be able to go to a belt car and be a lap faster at least that some real fast guys, and i run with some of the quickest guys in the country at my home track!!!!!!!
It is a true statement. I ran the BMI FK05, which I've had for about a year,for the first couple weeks of indoor with the same set-up that I ended up with last year. I slap the XLR8 on the track and I instantly gained a lap the very first time I ran it. I don't see how that relates to you but...........

Peded- The XLR8 has a SIMILAR layout to the one pictured. The XLR8 was designed to have optimum weight balance. The car also has a lowered drivetrain and a one-piece solid aluminum drive shaft.
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Old 09-05-2006, 03:28 PM   #21
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The reason I asked to do this was because i have a tub chassis and I have trouble with alots of tweak. Should i do this if i have a tub chassis?
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Old 09-05-2006, 04:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peded
The reason I asked to do this was because i have a tub chassis and I have trouble with alots of tweak. Should i do this if i have a tub chassis?

Peded: We used to grind and sand our old TC3 tub chassis' the same as the picture you posted below.. It did help allot with the weight balance of the car, but at the same time it weakened the molded tub chassis and seemed that after about a couple months of rippin it that way the chassis would become tweaked, and with a molded tub chassis you cant get the tweak out.. I would suggest to any of you TC3 or TC4 guys to try out our XLR8 conversion kit for those cars at www.diggitydesigns.com. Its more like a new car with all new geometry similar to an xray and corally... Im not only trying to sell the car because its our kit, but I know for a fact that this is the best driving shaft car out there for carpet.. We tested and changed allot of the parts throughout the testing period. We are very happy that our kit can compete with all the newest belt cars out there..

Thanks, Digs
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Old 09-05-2006, 05:01 PM   #23
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cool. That upgrade kit sounds good. I sounds like a cheaper way to upgrade if I need it. Im finding out I can make my car like another without buying a whole new kit.
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