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Old 04-18-2007, 01:29 PM   #1126
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I ran at a small indoor track today with my Novak 5.5 with sintered rotor.
Went reasonably well.
The 5.5 was still overkill for such a track.
I'm really interested to see what it will do outside!
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Old 04-18-2007, 02:42 PM   #1127
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Thanks guys. Thanks for the posts. Welcome to the thread.

Mathijs. Thanks for the motor report. I thought you had run that 5.5 a lot outdoors.

Here is the new upper suspension mount in ABS plastic (the grey piece). ABS is a tough fairly rigid plastic. I was able to make the attachment plate thicker, I reduced the sized of the Aluminum bar that it attaches to. I lowered the inner top of the arm slightly to raise the roll center. Then I can reduce the shim stack under the lower arm to achieve the same roll center with fewer shims. The lower suspension mount will be of the same plastic construction (machined from billet) in a production car.

Now Delrin (a brand of Nylon) is another material that might be suitable. From what I know this ABS is considerably stiffer than the Delrin which would make it more suitable for these mounts so the arms don't move forward and back except in a crash. There might be some bad traits to the ABS that I don't know about. Some of you guys might know.
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Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.-upper-abs-suspension-mount-002-resized.jpg  
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Old 04-18-2007, 02:44 PM   #1128
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how is the camber set on the front?
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Old 04-18-2007, 02:47 PM   #1129
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The car will come with -3 degree of camber. You then reduce camber by adding shims between the new gray part and the aluminum bar it attaches too. You take out two screws from the side. Load the shims on the screws and put it back. It is pretty easy. I tried it in the race last time to even the tire wear. If you ever run more negative than that -3 degrees on your 1/10 scale pan road car tell me.

The idea behind this is to have a very rugged setting that will not change with a little contact on the track. This will insure a fast finish.

The lower arm can also be shimmed out about .025 or so.
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Old 04-18-2007, 02:51 PM   #1130
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yeppers.. here's mine.. got some neatening up of the wires to do when time allows...

http://rctech.net/forum/attachment.p...hmentid=221489
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Old 04-18-2007, 02:55 PM   #1131
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TallyRC-Very Nice. Should be really fast.

For the other guys that is the New Powell wide pan car conversion that was aplied to an RC10L3T, I believe.
john

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Old 04-18-2007, 03:38 PM   #1132
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yep started life as a 10L3T but i imagine yoou could build one from the ground up for a little over $200.. that in my mind is an incredible deal in this rc world...
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Old 04-19-2007, 02:32 AM   #1133
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I am now testing the 5.5 with a sintered rotor, instead of the stock bonded one. I'm also experimenting with shimming the rotor.
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Old 04-19-2007, 08:11 AM   #1134
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does any1 no the top end speed of a 3.5 turn brushless motor?
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Old 04-19-2007, 09:45 AM   #1135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy147
does any1 no the top end speed of a 3.5 turn brushless motor?
its all in how you gear the car
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Old 04-19-2007, 09:47 AM   #1136
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Geared for our track in a pan car, I am hitting about 60 mph at the end of the straight. This would be higher on a smoother surface or longer surface. The motor is not topped out at the end of the straight.
John

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Old 04-19-2007, 11:22 AM   #1137
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marcos, at what track do you run 10th pancars? i travel that way occasionally still and half my friends run the state races off road and on..
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Old 04-19-2007, 12:17 PM   #1138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tallyrc
marcos, at what track do you run 10th pancars? i travel that way occasionally still and half my friends run the state races off road and on..
10th scale pan cars are pretty much dead in florida except in oval
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Old 04-19-2007, 08:07 PM   #1139
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mine is parked right now. i dont know if daytona is still running them at their monthly on-road event (4th sunday). we here in ocala were running a 4 or 5 guys but on-road has died all together here. havent had a race in uh 6 months?
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Old 04-19-2007, 08:16 PM   #1140
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A resurgence is always possible. Especially if we get some outdoor friendly cars out.

I got some Avid 3/16 x 1/2 inch metal shielded bearings in. They are not advertized for a brushless motor but are about ABEC 3 or 5 and may work as good as the ceramic bearings since dirt entry and high surface speed or vibration seems to be killing the bearings. Here are a set of three ready to go. use a punch to remove the old bearing. I used a socket that would contact the outer race to hammer in the new ones with Permatex High Temperature Red Threadlocker. I'll try them when my greased ceramic bearing expires. $3.00 for the three. That lower right dirty black endbell was the one that was oiled every run or two.

The Trinity 3 turn brushless just shipped. Wish the Tekin would so I could test it.

Minor improvements to the front end. I finished the set of four ABS suspension mounts. Should be a little stronger than the modified stock Losi parts that I was using. I am running the plastic arms now. Will test tomorrow. These plastic arms have more flex than the Aluminum ones. Hopefully with just the right amount of fore and aft flex I will have a rugged front suspension like the stock Associated pan suspension, but WITHOUT THE BLOWOVERS.

TallyRC-I like your paintjob, I just don't see how that little driver can see out of the beast.
Attached Thumbnails
Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.-novak-hv-outer-bearing-resized.jpg  

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