R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-16-2007, 08:44 PM   #1111
Tech Master
 
dougmartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,952
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Talking

John- Thanks. Yes we treat the track every race day. we usually only run on it every 2nd Sunday but a few of us are going to try to get out more often to practice and get the setups dialed with our Pancars and TC's. We have a dirt rack right next to it so we do get alot of dust on the asphalt when it's dry. I'm also going t orun a 7700KV motor. Any rollout ideas for that motor.

Thanks
dougmartin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-16-2007, 10:41 PM   #1112
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Here is a quote from one of Mathijs post. That 7700 kv motor has slightly more RPM than a Novak 5.5 R. I used the thread search tool for "gearing 5.5"

"On the 5.5 motor I noticed the following:
Top speed was highest with rollout between 32 and 33 mm, but runtime was reduced dramatically compared to a slightly lower rollout.
Furthermore, the motor runs dramatically hotter with a too tall gearing.
The car ran best with rollout between 29 and 32mm.
In that range it didn't really care where you are exactly, it will be about equally fast."

John
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2007, 02:15 AM   #1113
Moderator
 
Pro ten Holland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Druten/Holland (Europe)
Posts: 1,677
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

32 mm will be a safe starting point.
gear up from there untill performance drops or the motor shuts down thermally.

Small test report on my novak 3.5:
I run my 3.5R Novak at 25-27mm rollout.
I ran it at 30mm due to large tires. It shut down after 3 minutes of hard running at 30 degrees celcius ambient.
At 25mm with good 4200 IB's it really screams on the straight, and really starts to pick up bizar speeds. It also stays within normal temperatures at that gearing.

The only problem I had was when the front bearing seized.
I opened the bearing last night, and there were only 7 balls inside the race, and some debris that probably formed balls before
Keep the front bearing lubricated at all times to prevent premature wear.
Just put in a drop of bearing oil after a day of running and it should be fine for a long time.

I am going to test my 5.5 with the sintered rotor from my 3.5 wednesday on a carpet indoor track.
__________________
http://www.rc-lemans.de/
Pro ten Holland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2007, 08:34 AM   #1114
Tech Master
 
dougmartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,952
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the info John and Pro Ten.

I've never had my Mamba system thermal. I've had it very hot ESC 275 and the motor about 240 but never had it shut down.

Thanks again
dougmartin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2007, 02:52 PM   #1115
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Doug-So is Rick racing with you guys?
Just a note. That sounds a little too hot. We used to run brushed motors near that temperature. At 240 degrees they smelled burned. The epoxy coating on the wires is starting to cook. Open that Mamba motor up and smell it. If it is burned smelling inside gear it down. Otherwise keep your motor temp at less than 210 F or so. Our brushed motors used to survive this, but then the comm would be gone before the long term effects of this temperature were felt. The Novak motors shut the system down at about 180 F. I feel this is a little on cool side of what they can really handle. You can disconnect the blue wire on the sensor harness and overide this, but then don't ask for a warantee replacement.

Pic is of the Associated Nissan GTP body. I have set the splitter just even with the front edge of the chassis. I am going to try it without a soft dam to see if it will blow over or not. This front suspension is really supple and better damped than before. I suspect it will not. There are four vents that you can open to add a little steering. I plan not to open the fender vent as the body broke there on the second session. The vents just aft of the body post seem to be durable enough when you open them. I need to run 6.5 mm front ride height on our track. Thus this is the height of the splitter off the ground. With a soft dam I can go 2-3 mm lower to the bottom edge of the tape.
John
Attached Thumbnails
Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.-associated-nissan-prototype-ii-003-resized.jpg  
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2007, 04:06 PM   #1116
Tech Master
 
dougmartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,952
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
Doug-So is Rick racing with you guys?
Just a note. That sounds a little too hot. We used to run brushed motors near that temperature. At 240 degrees they smelled burned. The epoxy coating on the wires is starting to cook. Open that Mamba motor up and smell it. If it is burned smelling inside gear it down. Otherwise keep your motor temp at less than 210 F or so. Our brushed motors used to survive this, but then the comm would be gone before the long term effects of this temperature were felt. The Novak motors shut the system down at about 180 F. I feel this is a little on cool side of what they can really handle. You can disconnect the blue wire on the sensor harness and overide this, but then don't ask for a warantee replacement.

John
John. Yes Rick is running with us. Pretty nice car he bought off you. Do you have any setup tips for the car for asphalt? He has run it inside on carpet but I felt it had too much on power push....couldn't get it to turn.

My motor and ESC only got hot like that 1 time. They never get over 180 now as I did find the right gearing and I run a fan on my ESC (just because I like too) I did take them apart to look and didn't see any sign's of burning.
dougmartin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2007, 04:14 PM   #1117
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Smelling the motor is the first clue. You can't really see the damage from overheating. Eventually it causes the wires in the coils to short together in unseen parts of the motor. I do have a setup for that car for asphalt it is back in the thread. Search for setup. I'll see if I can put up a link. The Novak motors used to have an epoxy based rotor. It would loose its grip on the magnetic particles and they would do a slow flow and loose magnetism at 180F which is probably the reason they chose that thermal cutoff setting. The rotor is sintered now but the wires are still epoxy coated.

Wide Pantoura (Powell chassis) Setup (with front shocks on associated suspension)
The setup that car came with was my setup for asphalt. I did not find the post. Here is what I remember. 4 degree caster, 0 toe, 2 degree negative camber, 5 degree reactive caster suspension mount. White Murdoch RC springs on front. Purple fronts pink rears. 30 weight oil front and rear. Corally Jack the Gripper TC2 traction compound is a must have. Stormer stocks it as well as Corally USA. If it has too much turn in the go with 35 weight in the front. Aproximately a .043 inch wire size Losi JRXS center spring.

By the way those nerf wings are no good. Boomer will attest.
John
Attached Thumbnails
Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.-powell-chassis-top-view-complete-003-resized.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 04-17-2007 at 04:34 PM.
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2007, 05:53 PM   #1118
Tech Master
 
dougmartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,952
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
Smelling the motor is the first clue. You can't really see the damage from overheating. Eventually it causes the wires in the coils to short together in unseen parts of the motor. I do have a setup for that car for asphalt it is back in the thread. Search for setup. I'll see if I can put up a link. The Novak motors used to have an epoxy based rotor. It would loose its grip on the magnetic particles and they would do a slow flow and loose magnetism at 180F which is probably the reason they chose that thermal cutoff setting. The rotor is sintered now but the wires are still epoxy coated.

Wide Pantoura (Powell chassis) Setup (with front shocks on associated suspension)
The setup that car came with was my setup for asphalt. I did not find the post. Here is what I remember. 4 degree caster, 0 toe, 2 degree negative camber, 5 degree reactive caster suspension mount. White Murdoch RC springs on front. Purple fronts pink rears. 30 weight oil front and rear. Corally Jack the Gripper TC2 traction compound is a must have. Stormer stocks it as well as Corally USA. If it has too much turn in the go with 35 weight in the front. Aproximately a .043 inch wire size Losi JRXS center spring.

By the way those nerf wings are no good. Boomer will attest.
John

OK thanks John..I'll have to do that just to make sure.

I sent the setup to Rick.

Thanks
dougmartin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2007, 08:17 PM   #1119
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Doug- I found the setup for the Wide Pantoura back in the thread here is a link.

note I also posted a setup for the narrow Pantoura early in the thread on about page 7.

Here is a nice pic of just the rolling chassis on the wide Pantoura
John
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2007, 09:22 PM   #1120
Tech Regular
 
DPowell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 454
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
Doug-When is that wide RC10L3T kit going to be available?
John,
Is this the one you had in mind?

With the lack of replacement carbon fiber parts for the RC10L2 and the renewed interest in 10th scale pan cars, we thought it was time to introduce the PRC MAX10.
Attached Thumbnails
Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.-im001399.jpg  
__________________
www.powellracingcomponents.com
**Record setting carbon fiber**

Speedmerchant and TOP USA dealer.
DPowell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2007, 09:34 PM   #1121
Tech Master
 
dougmartin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,952
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DPowell
John,
Is this the one you had in mind?

With the lack of replacement carbon fiber parts for the RC10L2 and the renewed interest in 10th scale pan cars, we thought it was time to introduce the PRC MAX10.
PRC MAX10....is this a new pancar?
dougmartin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2007, 09:40 PM   #1122
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

This would be a conversion for a 10L2 to make it a wide pan car. You would need a 10L2 or similar pan car to complete the kit. Yes that is the one. I was asking for TallyRC.

By the way Doug. I know someone who could take a nice picture of that car. That photo makes it look like G10.
John
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2007, 09:41 PM   #1123
Tech Regular
 
DPowell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 454
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

The intent was to offer a chassis to update the AE RC10L2 and at the same time offer a chassis set that would allow someone to build a 235mm car using parts from a 10L3T or even a 12L3/4.
__________________
www.powellracingcomponents.com
**Record setting carbon fiber**

Speedmerchant and TOP USA dealer.
DPowell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2007, 12:56 AM   #1124
Tech Fanatic
 
Rick Speer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Falkland BC
Posts: 795
Default This thread ROCKS!!!

Hey Jhon,
Thanx for a super nice car, runs great on carpet (for me lol) get to run
outside now,...so this sunday i will get some test runs in and get a feal
for the car, thanx for the setup.

Will post some pics,..soon as i get it back together...
__________________
= K3! = TVRCRC.com =
= RicksPaintShop = Cell 250-309-4576 =
Rick Speer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2007, 04:59 AM   #1125
Tech Adept
 
ErikRC10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 109
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
This would be a conversion for a 10L2 to make it a wide pan car. You would need a 10L2 or similar pan car to complete the kit. Yes that is the one. I was asking for TallyRC.

By the way Doug. I know someone who could take a nice picture of that car. That photo makes it look like G10.
John
Tallyrc got his wide conversion kit. There are some pictures of it in the pan car forum in the oval section. It looks really good.

I think what you are doing here is amazing and it is really what started a lot of the regrowth of the 1/10th scale pan cars. Tallyrc originally got one because of this thread and after that we were all hooked, everybody in our club owns one.
ErikRC10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks John Stranahan Electric On-Road 839 11-01-2011 04:31 PM
Xray T2R, 2100 mah 2c LiPo, and Mabuchi power: Tech tips and Tricks gacjr0 Electric On-Road 46 11-18-2007 10:09 AM
tips and tricks XXX-NT streetstock Electric Off-Road 2 05-13-2005 10:50 AM
Tips & Tricks Steevo Electric On-Road 54 08-08-2003 10:09 PM
Tips And Tricks rctc3 Electric On-Road 36 03-10-2002 10:54 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:48 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net