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Old 12-17-2006, 08:54 PM   #691
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MarcosJ-Rollout = 25.5 mm/rev with the Novak 3.5R using 90 spur,12 pinion for a 7.5 ratio. I tried 7.38 previously (96/13)with the narrow rear pod car, but that was not low enough.

John

Note there are pictures of my latest Wide Pantoura Here if you have not seen them.

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Old 12-17-2006, 09:03 PM   #692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
MarcosJ-Rollout = 25.5 mm/rev with the Novak 3.5R using 90 spur,12 pinion for a 7.5 ratio. I tried 7.38 previously (96/13)with the narrow rear pod car, but that was not low enough.

John
thanks , i got the 3.5 on my 1/12th scale with a 31mm rollout, I was just wondering what yours was
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:20 PM   #693
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MarcosJ-Well don't just tease us. Tell us how that 3.5 runs in that 1/12 scale.

Front shocks on Stock (narrow) Pantoura

I got another pair of the RC18T front shocks to put on the front of the Narrow Pantoura. Thought you might want a peek if you want to attempt this mod. I used Associated TC4 servo mounts for the front shock mount. I made a slight clearance cut on top of the servo mounts to clear the body of the shock. There is a slight notch in the front edge of the chassis for clearance on the shock ball pivot. I trimmed a stock pantoura bumper to protect the leading edge of the shock from impact. I Put the same servo mount treatement I did on the wide car on this narrow car. There is a photo on the previous page of this same mod on the wide car.

I am very happy with this shock setup on the wide car. The front shocks have caused the best improvement to high speed stability over the bumps than any mod that I have done to the car.
Attached Thumbnails
Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.-pantoura-front-shock-install-001-resized.jpg  

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Old 12-18-2006, 09:35 PM   #694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
MarcosJ-Well don't just tease us. Tell us how that 3.5 runs in that 1/12 scale.

Front shocks on Stock (narrow) Pantoura

I got another pair of the RC18T front shocks to put on the front of the Narrow Pantoura. Thought you might want a peek if you want to attempt this mod. I used Associated TC4 servo mounts for the front mount. I made a slight clearance cut on top of the servo mounts to clear the body of the shock. There is a slight notch in the front edge of the chassis for clearance on the shock ball pivot. I trimmed a stock pantoura bumper to protect the leading edge of the shock from impact. I Put the same servo mount treatement I did on the wide car. There is a photo on the previous page of the wide car servo mount.

I am very happy with this shock setup on the wide car. It has been the best improvement to high speed stability over the bumps that I have done.
well its just plain "Stupid Fast"!!!
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:31 PM   #695
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well its just plain "Stupid Fast"!!!
I just picked up my 3.5!
I just can't wait to test it!!
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:32 PM   #696
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I just picked up my 3.5!
I just can't wait to test it!!
on a 1/12th scale? if so hang on!!
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:36 PM   #697
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I think my 5.5 is overkill enpugh for 12th scale LOL
I'll save my new 3.5 for 10th pancar duties.
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:45 PM   #698
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Mathijs- I hope that you can get that low gear on your 1/10 scale. It really rips out of the corners with a 7.5. Feels a little on the soft side with a 7.38.
John
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Old 12-19-2006, 10:12 AM   #699
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What does that calculate into mm/rev? That's the number normally used to compare rollout independant from tire size.

I am going to use 64 pitch spurs that I have lying around (I bought a large bunch of them at the closeout sale of my local hobby shop). My 64 pitch gears are a little larger than the 78T 48pitch spurs I normally use, so that should work out fine!
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Old 12-19-2006, 10:41 AM   #700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
MarcosJ-Rollout = 25.5 mm/rev with the Novak 3.5R using 90 spur,12 pinion for a 7.5 ratio. I tried 7.38 previously (96/13)with the narrow rear pod car, but that was not low enough
25.5 mm/rev (90/12 = 7.5 with a new tire) (128/17 with 64 pitch)
John
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Old 12-19-2006, 05:04 PM   #701
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Here is an interesting product. Now the interesting part to me is that it will handle 1-14 cells NiMH or 5S LiPo!!!!!
Hmmm. I have 4 LiPo cells on board quite a bit. Would be easy to hook them up in series. Still a few seconds off the track record 1/8 scale time. When I am truly hooked up during a race I am still motor limited. Now the thought is to use something like a 6.5 R at twice the voltage. Fewer amps will be needed. Things will probably run cooler.

http://teamtekin.com/R1%20and%20R1%20Pro.asp

I am going to try a set of 64 pitch gears and see if they mesh a little better. 128/17. I have not seen a smaller 64 pitch pinion for sale in steel. There is a 16 tooth aluminum pinion. That is a huge, will barely fit with some tinkering, type of spur.
John

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Old 12-21-2006, 06:58 PM   #702
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wow this thread is on page 3......this thread better not die!!!! lol anymore updates john???
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Old 12-21-2006, 08:33 PM   #703
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Don't plan to let the thread die for a while.

I had a dry track just long enough for a couple of tests today. The LRP Shere Comp seems to be working OK now with the addition of a fan on the speed control. Temps were low on the speed control. Traction was not good from a recent rain. I tested the Narrow car with the front shocks. It tuned up with red 10# front MurdockRC non progressive springs. It ran well.

The wide car is dialed in well on all parts of the track now. The only thing I could use is some more forward traction on the last half of the straight. This is a suspension thing. The rear tires are bouncing from bump to bump. This cannot be tuned out with the center spring or side shocks as I have tried.

We mentioned a four-link rear suspension previously on the thread. This suspension is similar to what a late model mustang with a live axle has. Four trailing links. The upper two can be angled inward to control side to side motion of the axle which is coil sprung. This eliminates the need for a Panhard rod or Watts link as there is no real frame at the back to attach these things to. I have worked out this suspension in my mind. The narrow car will be my test mule again, but it will be a wide car with wide rear pod. Reason just below. The links will be about 4 inches long. I will need to make a new bottom plate to pivot the links at the axle in line with the position of the stock links but much longer. I will use two coil over shocks to suspend each side of the axle. Three shocks will not be needed any longer. This has probably been tried before. If so please give us a report. Josh had talked about doing this as well, but he was planning to drive the axle with a belt. Mine will be direct drive like the pan car. The motor will be suspended with the rear axle. I am hoping to get a more supple rear end that has better compliance with the road over the bumps. When I get it assembled part way I'll put up a pic as it may be hard for you to visualize it. This will still conform to pan car rules as it is not an independent suspension and is direct drive.

Here is a link to a late model mustang suspesion that I spoke of. Go near the bottom there are two shematics. The second cutaway style schematic is easier to see. Just below these you can see a Panhard rod diagram and a Watts link diagram complete with movement.
http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm

Extended Pinion
I had another motor bearing die on the narrow pod car with the 4.5 R. The extended pinion is just too hard on the outer bearing with an extended pinion on a Wide pan car with narrow rear pod, even with frequent oiling. That would be 3 bearings that died now. I would avoid this situation with a 4.5 or faster motor by getting a wide pod.

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Old 12-21-2006, 10:28 PM   #704
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Strange that your motor bearings quit on you. I have run this setup for about three yours now without any problems!
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Old 12-21-2006, 10:33 PM   #705
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I think the problem is the extra RPM. It heats the bearing noticably. I know that you run this extended pinion with good luck. I also know your pinions last a good while. That 3.5 is eating steel pinions. The problem could also be the type of dirt on the track. My original dampeners would seize up from the dirt as well. That's why I use side shocks now.
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