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Old 11-13-2006, 03:42 PM   #541
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Here is another 1/10 pan body (Nascar) that came up on a Web Search. It is a Monte Carlo that includes the window masks spoiler and decals. I would add a wing for best performance (clear wing for best appearance). I can't tell how wide the car is on this web site or Protoform's website. It fits super speedway oval pan cars. If you know how wide that is please post it.

I'll have to report that Nascar does some of the most exciting road racing to view on TV. They go around some corners three wide sometimes. This is all helped by not quite enough power, not quite enough brakes or tires. We were three wide on the sweeper the other day. My pan car in between two Nitro's making a pass. Talk about excitement.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/242740.asp#More

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yyhayim-Note that Pro ten Holland responded to one of your posts on the previous page.

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Old 11-13-2006, 06:48 PM   #542
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[QUOTE=Pro ten Holland]yyhayyim: check tire diameter left and right. A difference in diameter ususally causes this kind of problem.
QUOTE]
Thanks Pro-10- only pblm is that tires were almost identical for frist few runs. And it was then that it had major understeering- turning radius was almost 3 times its normal amount to either left or right- tried all kinds of tricks with the Radio to increase turning radius but this did not return it to normal. It must be some mechanical failure on CCT. Something I havent cought yet, or something with the tires and track that just didn't let it work like it used to. Very strange. Even worse, by the end of the day, it was turning sharply again, but just to one side?!? Very fustrating and embarrasing- tried rotating tires, harder rear compunds, but nothing worked.
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Old 11-13-2006, 07:17 PM   #543
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Default CRC Pantoura Parts

Oh no! Just began assembling the Pantoura, and I noticed that on my kit, it comes with some cheap looking old AE style rear pod. The right motor mount is some kind silver aluminum, while the left is black plastic, like from an AE 12L3, or something. This is not what is advertized on their website, and even the color pics they have on the manual show its supposed to come with the nice CRC red pod aluminum, like CRC 3.2R, etc. Those of you who have bought Pantoura's recently, have you experienced the same plbm? What should I do...
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Old 11-13-2006, 08:11 PM   #544
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There is only one picture of the Pantoura on the CRC site. I agree that the pic is misleading. There is no lettering and no red on the actual car. They do have a 1/12 scale bloody carpet knife with red on it. The rear end of the Pantoura is different from an L3T in that it is a link car not a T plate car. I like the link car. There are a bunch photos of the stock Pantoura at the beginning of this thread. One day you might want to take a peek at the first few pages of the thread. Every question you have had is a repeat of questions that I had. Good answers are written in these first few pages by guys with plenty of experience.

There are no instruction written for the Pantoura. CRC includes the 1/12 scale instructions as the car is similarly constructed. If you need more clues look at the photos in my second post.

I your tunning problem was just a radius of the turn problem then chances are your servo saver stripped on the servo output shaft or you had a gear strip in the servo. I have had this happen twice. One time it was because I selected the wrong spline which fit but was oversize.

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Old 11-13-2006, 08:38 PM   #545
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turning radius on pancars can severely be affected by diff action too. too tight, big radius... bad rear bearing odd radiuses.. bad front bearings bad radiuses.
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Old 11-13-2006, 08:52 PM   #546
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also, that us pancar champs business is well shakey at best, but we'll see. that dude hosed a local track here. had the owner buy trophies and advertise the event and absolutely nobody showed, not even the fellow promoting it... but we can always hope... fella was just left holding the bag.. i'll try to follow it, but you noticed when the last posts are from.. perhaps getting with the guys from the southeast F1 tour and making it a pancar series might prove more fruitful.. those guys are ambitious...
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Old 11-13-2006, 10:16 PM   #547
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I did not catch the dates. I think I will delete that part of my post on the Pan Car Nats. Old news.
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Old 11-14-2006, 02:46 PM   #548
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John
That Protoform Monte Carlo is designed for oval racing. The body is shaped to give maximum left side down force. Also that is a narrow body. Murdoc RC has some of the wide pan car oval bodies. Those should work on your wide Pantoura.

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Old 11-14-2006, 03:03 PM   #549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKJ
John
That Protoform Monte Carlo is designed for oval racing. The body is shaped to give maximum left side down force. Also that is a narrow body. Murdoc RC has some of the wide pan car oval bodies. Those should work on your wide Pantoura.

Steve

What he said.... Your only real sources are Vahns and McAlister...

What did become of the pan car championships? I couldn't go, did no one else go either???
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Old 11-14-2006, 04:07 PM   #550
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Steve- Thanks for the info on the Monte Carlo. I'll not add it to my list of on road bodies. I have seen the ones at MurdocK R/C. I'll take another look. Here is a link to their bodies which ones are wide? I can see at the bottom that some of the bodies are marked 230 or 235, but the sedan bodies at the top are not marked in mm.

I think nobody showed for the pan car nats. Maybe the same race that TallyRC mentioned. I did notice on the CRC forum that about 7 signed up which was not enough.

Here is another pic of my dual batteries. This is a better spot for my rear tape. Also notice I am making fine adjustments of body height and rake by adding washers under the body post. It is so much more precise than messing with that collar up top and then trying to put new holes in the body post in just the right place. I have the tie wrap on both sides so that I can center the body just right in the back and to stiffen the body on center. This was still not enough to prevent rubbing on my fenders which shrouded the tires even with 5 mm of space. Too many g's in the corners. I have now unshrouded the rear tires on the McAllister Nissan 300z in Nascar paint. The 212 mm front width is working out real nice at the front of both this body and the Peugeot 505 B body.
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Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.-dual-batteries-rear-tape-resized.jpg  

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Old 11-14-2006, 06:43 PM   #551
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John

The 3 stock car bodies on the bottom of the page are the wide bodies.

Steve
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Old 11-15-2006, 10:36 AM   #552
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The Pan Car Nats guy was well intentioned, but isn't a racer, wasn't a racer, never showed up to any of his races, and doesn't really have much idea of what he's doing. He lives in the SE (or did) but wasn't organizing local races, instead trying to organize races in Texas and Cali. Don't even bother.

Instead - lobby ROAR to run this class as an exhibition at Nats! Better exposure and legitimate racing! Lobby AE, Cor and others to get THEIR drivers to run their cars there as well.

John - interesting that the sway bar didn't work. . .I'm actually surprised. It looked like it would be a good idea. . .
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Old 11-15-2006, 03:12 PM   #553
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Default Pantoura Ready for testing

Well, I finally completed building this kit. There are some areas that are very confusing, though...

#1: the diff and rear axle instructions are very badly explained. Read and saw some pics on this forum, and now dont know what to do concerning the Cone washer- does it go regular as instruction suggest, or should I put it backwards(big area towards Spur)? There were interesting discussions about this on the forum, but will need further details and explanation from someone- please help.
#2: This strange battery brace- is this supposed just to slide over the back brace? It seems that its similar to the small batttery braces for the CRC T-Fource 1/12, which have those little cut-outs at the rear, so they can hook on to tweak screws placed behind them. I will try this on the Pantoura. I will drill tiny holes for the 2 tweak screws, spaced aprat enough so the cut outs on the rear of the battery brace of the Pantoura just slide onto the tweak screws and "lock" on to them. For the front, I have removed the stock Pantoura front battery brace stand-offs, and replaced them with the Corally CCT stand offs, which fit perfectly, and allow me to use the Corally clips to place and hold down the battery brace to the standoffs. This will alllow for quicker and easier removal of battery.
#3: I'm using the Orion Paltinum 4800mah Lipo packs. to mae sure they stay, I have used hard plastic cut outs, the size of the battery cut-outs in the middle of the chassis where battery goes, and then place the plastic rectagles at bottom of battery w/ double sided tape. I then slide battery in, and it locks in place, through the plastic rectangles cut-outs which sink in through the chassis battery slots. The Battery is locked, and doesnt move latterally, and with the brace on top, its perfectly set in place. No battery straps, or place holders needed.

Plan to do some running and test this kit. let's see what happens...
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Old 11-15-2006, 04:44 PM   #554
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YYhayyim- The pointy end of the cone washer goes toward the spur. Boomer put up a large schematic. I also put up a schematic.

Normally the battery brace goes under the rear knife. With your oversize battery you will have to make other arangements.

Nice way that you chose to fix the battery in place.

Good Luck
John

Boomer-I was surprised as well. I thought if I could get a spring to run the full 6.5 mm of travel (by using the sway bar) then my problem would be solved. This was not the case, so I now advocate some damping be built into the front end.
I could actually add damping with the sway bar by putting two more links on the bar just inboard of the inner A-arm pivots. The shocks could be mounted low and go straight back actuated by the sway bar itself. Or even just one shock in the middle. I am still thinking about this. The car runs well with the McAllister body though. The big difference is the GT rules allow a wing which I placed right over the rear axle instead of way behind the axle like on the Peugeot. This keeps the front end better planted. It would be better if the front suspension would not spring the front end off the ground so hard on the bumps, though.

What a shame that was a really nice looking piece.
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Old 11-15-2006, 06:18 PM   #555
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John: look at post#19- there you posted your pic at the end, and it shows the thin end of the cone towards the Spur. The next post, #20-21, they ask you to reverse it, meaning the wide end towards the Spur. This is the confusing part, because now you also seem to ask me to have the thin end facing the Spur, as you have on post #19. Yet, its opposite what the other fellas are asking- they seem to suggest to reverse it- please take a look and advise...
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