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Old 10-22-2006, 02:30 AM   #406
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Default Frontend tips

John
Here is a link about building the front end. Lots of tips

http://www.swiftracingproducts.com/Page.cfm?InfoID=5192


Also you can use any 1/8 hinge pin as long as it is longer than the stock king pin.

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Old 10-22-2006, 02:15 PM   #407
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mine compress one coil at a time, and i get a solid 1/4 of travel.. i wonder if i can get more..
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Old 10-22-2006, 04:10 PM   #408
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Steve-Thanks for the link.
Tally RC-What springs are you running. Note the spring does not become progressive until that first coil binds. Then you have removed a coil from action making for a stiffer coil spring.

Couple of notes from the link. "so that it works freely and smoothly through itís intended motion"

I have done this previously and done the cutting to the upper A-arm outer pivot and steering block so the steering block does not bind at my upper limit of travel. I will need to do some more of this when I get the longer travel parts.

Track Report Sunny cool What a great day
Track came in really well after about 3 packs. Performace at speed is better than with the peugeot body, as is the speed on the straight. The body no longer rubs on the back tires at full bump on the straight even though it is very low on the car. The peugeot body would slap the tires even with the stiffeners in place. This improves the speed. I can maneuver now on the straight and entering the sweeper to make a pass from the improved steering. I have good performance on the sweeper now, I can actually give it some power rather than just maintain attitude and speed. I'll need some more practise to fully utilize this. We got no sugar water this weekend. If we had I would be making up huge distances on the sweeper. The car was faster than the Nitro TC's that showed although they were not the fastest of the bunch.

Here is a pic showing the wing spoiler and side dam. I also have slightly less than 1/8 inch of flexible air dam in the mid 2/3 of the front end (strapping tape). This is helpful on the bumps. The side dams were not needed with this body for straight line stability, but they do let me maneuver more on the straight and entry to the sweeper. I can run close to other cars now on the straght and sweeper to make passes. Now the favorite pass is you get right on the back of a Nitro car on the straight. He can't outrun you and will usually overshoot the sweeper by quite a bit trying to do so. Then you make a nice safe pass on the sweeper.

Current setup-Pink Rear, Majenta Front, .020 inch front spring, .049 inch center spring, 35 weight center shock oil. 0 toe, 0 camber. 6.5 mm rear ride height 5 mm front ride height. 4 degree caster, 5 degree reactive caster block. Traxas T-max Body posts for rigidity.

Here is a link to the specs for the GT class that I posted previously.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=173144
My side dams are a little longer than specs but could be taller if made only 3 inches long.
John
Attached Thumbnails
Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.-mcallister-nissan-300-z-final-wing-spoiler-resized.jpg  

Last edited by John Stranahan; 10-22-2006 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 10-22-2006, 06:20 PM   #409
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"Now the favorite pass is you get right on the back of a Nitro car on the straight. He can't outrun you and will usually overshoot the sweeper by quite a bit trying to do so. Then you make a nice safe pass on the sweeper."



Well you got to love it! Keep it up John!
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Old 10-22-2006, 07:09 PM   #410
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i believe they are the the same springs as of the recent discussion.. "wolf racing"..??? or the windtunnel designs...not sure it all came with the car and have been meaning to email the fella i got it from to confirm for reference purposes... lemme see if i can figure out how to do a thumbnail rather than inserting big pics... i'll just do links ..

http://webpages.charter.net/idothtre/springs2.jpg
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Last edited by tallyrc; 10-22-2006 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 10-22-2006, 08:13 PM   #411
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TallyRC-Thanks. Heck here you have your car all tricked out with a progressive rate long travel front suspension, but I have to keep mine simple.


To post a thumbnail. At the bottom of your submit post screen (you have to scroll down a bit) Find the Manage Attachment Button, Hit it, then Browse, then find the file on your computer, then upload then submit reply. This puts the pic in RCTechs computer. You can do this from the Edit post screen too and add a picture later. Pics need to be around 100 KB or so.

Pic is of the soft front dam. Would look nice with that purple tape. This is vinyl tape with Strapping tape on the inside to give it more structure.
Attached Thumbnails
Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.-front-dam-resized.jpg  

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Old 10-22-2006, 09:26 PM   #412
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"trick" now that is funny.. i have been into rc for about 18 years, but this is my first pan car so i am just learning all i can right now.. my cas has had the long king pins, but had the standard springs on it.. like the red one in the photo (but green) after all the discussion i decide to see what all i got with the kit and found the progressives so i added them and put trailing axles on the car from inline ones hoping to smooth out some of the steering... how thick are the shims that are supposed to go under the front lower arms supposed to be? i found part number, but no thickness. my car has acres of rideheight in the front i'd like to lower it without just adding droop or compressing the springs......
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Old 10-22-2006, 09:51 PM   #413
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I put spacers to take out all play in the kingpin. That is from the Calandra instructions. Set the ride height by installing washers between the suspension blocks on the lower A-arm and the frame itself where the big 8 x 32 screws go. Longer screws are available at Stormer. I notice on an Associated suspension setup sheet (all blanks) that you can put kingpin washers in a variety of places. I have two thin ones underneath the lower arm to relived the pounding the spring gives to the plastic spring seat. I have one above the steering block to reduce the amount of suspension I had to cut away to achieve good friction free travel at full bump. I have the rest above the upper A-arm to remove all slack from the kingpin. There is really very little droop with the stout springs we need to run. Don't preload the spring.

The #8 aluminum washers for ride height are about .070 inch thick. CRC sells a nice set of plastic shims of various thickness to fine tune your ride height. I dont think we really need to fine tune it that close at the front outdoors on asphalt. The ride height should be low enough to get an ocassional scratch in my opinion. Any hard material with a hole in it makes a good ride height spacer. I used body post stops at first.

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Old 10-24-2006, 02:39 PM   #414
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Hey guys I'm almost giving away my left over pan car gear.


Check it out...........


http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...21#post2749421



Have fun......

Regards,
Eric
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Old 10-24-2006, 06:20 PM   #415
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The track was a bit dusty today. The pan car handled well. It was faster than a couple of Nitro touring cars on foams, but slower than Roberts touring car on rubber tires. The rubber tires just had better grip on the corners today. I had good control on the straight now. The front end does leave the ground 3 or 4 times per lap on the straight, but it fall back down now. I think that soft dam helped the most as it keeps air from hitting the underside of the body. The front edge of the hard dam is acting like a splitter now.

Some New items are on the way for future tests.

Novak 3.5 R motor. I think the power band on this motor will suit our long track better. It should have less punch in the corner but more top speed. I will see.

Peugeot .030 inch thick body is on the way. I will mike it to see how the thickness compares to my old thin one.

New Windtunnel Racing long travel suspension and springs from Murdoch racing. This should help some, but probably not like having a twin A-arm suspension with good travel.
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Old 10-25-2006, 04:34 PM   #416
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Default CRC Pantoura Back in Stock

Get them while they last. They are shipping back orders and taking new orders...
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Old 10-26-2006, 06:17 AM   #417
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John:
You sent you a PM.
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Old 10-26-2006, 09:38 AM   #418
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are 1/10 pans that great? will they out perform a tc or a 1/12 pan? and can that car be run in the same class as a 1/10 tc?
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Old 10-26-2006, 10:07 AM   #419
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CRC Pantoura's Back in Stock. ( see yyhayjim's post)


Pan cars have their advantages. On a high grip track or sugar water treated track they are faster than any other electric, almost as fast as a 1/8 scale. On a dusty or dirty track, the narrow rubber tired touring car will get through the dust better and will out run a pan car. The pan car will always have better top speed with the same motors. Pan cars are harder to drive than touring cars as they are two wheel drive. They get huge run time and don't fry your brushless motors in hot weather. Poke through the thread for Videos and longer discussions on this same topic.

Video Pantoura vs Nitro TC

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=2710193&highlight=video#post27101 93

Video Wide Pan Car vs Electric Touring Car


http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...eo#post2710193

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Old 10-26-2006, 10:13 AM   #420
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ok ill try. im not real sure if i want to get into it since pans are sole racers. and if i do i will go with 1/8th nitro probly, just cause it can be driven on more surfaces. or else 1/12 just because they are cheaper. im not real sure if i want to make a switch and do both or if i will just stick with the tc for now though.
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