R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-09-2009, 04:02 AM   #2146
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

What side shocks are being used? I tried the vcs shocks from associated but they are awefull so i need some better brands.
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2009, 08:41 AM   #2147
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

2wdrive-I agree. I use RC18T rear shocks for side shocks. You can use these without springs and use your stock tweak springs. Or you can put vcs shock springs on them and eliminate the tweak springs. You need the Aluminum shock kit and a set of ball studs.

The advantages are: the shaft does not bend like putty. The terminating ends are also strong and do not bend. You may need thicker oil to achieve the same stiffness.
__________________
[email protected]
TeamCRC.com Mikes-HobbyShop.com
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2009, 08:45 AM   #2148
V12
Tech Elite
 
V12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,641
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Havenīt visited the forum for a long time...
But now the Pro10 racing is beginning here again.

Thomas P
Havenīt heard from you since a long time. Did you finish your Pantoura?

2wdrive
you ordered the pantoura parts from Doug?
Regarding side shocks I personally donīt like them, I prefere tubes.
Donīt know the dimensions from VCS shocks maybe the Factory shocks from the RC18T are worth a try. These are used on the Hatzenbach project car also and they do work. I havenīt raced my Hatzenbach not very much but until now the shocks donīt leak. Just avoid the original shocks from the kit.
V12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2009, 09:27 AM   #2149
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

I assembled two asso vcs micro shocks that i had laying around from a second hand buy. ( shocks were new in the package). I put them on my rc10l2.5 now but i don't like how they are build. It is not user friendly and no way i can service them in a normal manner, i can't even bleed them to have the same rebound ( they don't have the same rebound now, one doesn't have any rebound and the other has a very slight rebound).

I didn't order te parts from doug yet. I am still in the planning phase so to speak. I am making a list for what i need to buy and the shocks are one of the things i am thinking about.

So far my list is:
-powell wide pantoura chassis
-Calandra CRC Pro Strut Front End: 1/10 Scale CLN3241
-Calandra Rear Side Spring Set CLN1280
-Calandra Metal Spring Holders CLN1287
-Calandra Alum Lowered Motor Pod SetBlue CLN4241
(The left and right hub i already have in blue so thats why i chose blue)

probably i will use this instead of the yato links
-Calandra Clamping One-piece Links: GX10 CLN3280

I only need to find some standoffs in blue but i cant't seem to find the proper ones. Any one know what size they have to be or a part numer?

I have already some yato links to make the panhard setup.

Anything i forgot? Probably i will use the rc18t shocks either on the rc10l2.5 or my new project. They are not so expensive so worth a shot. They are this one? ASSOCIATED 21216 FT FRONT BLUE ALM SHOCKS RC18T RC18

edit: never mind i just read that you use the rear shocks

Last edited by 2wdrive; 05-09-2009 at 10:09 AM.
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2009, 09:32 AM   #2150
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by V12 View Post
Havenīt visited the forum for a long time...
But now the Pro10 racing is beginning here again.

Thomas P
Havenīt heard from you since a long time. Did you finish your Pantoura?

2wdrive
you ordered the pantoura parts from Doug?
Regarding side shocks I personally donīt like them, I prefere tubes.
Donīt know the dimensions from VCS shocks maybe the Factory shocks from the RC18T are worth a try. These are used on the Hatzenbach project car also and they do work. I havenīt raced my Hatzenbach not very much but until now the shocks donīt leak. Just avoid the original shocks from the kit.
You are only racing with the wide pantoura chassis? or you just didn't race that much yet?

How are the rear side springs retained at the bottem btw?
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2009, 12:16 PM   #2151
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Here is a link for the blue chassis standoffs

Associated 4442B Factory Team Chassis Standoff Blue, 10L $5.29, 3

You need the rear shocks for side shocks and a set of RC18T ballstuds
__________________
[email protected]
TeamCRC.com Mikes-HobbyShop.com
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2009, 12:44 PM   #2152
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

thanks!

If i want to use the rear side springs instead of the rc18t shocks how are they retained at the bottom? (already orderd the rear rc18t shocks)
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2009, 03:29 PM   #2153
V12
Tech Elite
 
V12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,641
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
You are only racing with the wide pantoura chassis? or you just didn't race that much yet?

How are the rear side springs retained at the bottem btw?
I donīt race that much anymore. I used the wide Pantoura for the last outdoor race last year and then for an indoor race in october where I TQed and won the race. That was the only races I had with the Pantoura. Also until now no more Pro10 races. The new season just begins now in the next weeks.
Actually the Pantoura was planned as a 2nd car for wet conditions but this changed when I broke my Hatzenbach car and had no spares.

The rear side springs are not retained at the bottom. At the top plate (cross brace) there is a spring retainer with a groove where the spring clamps on. Thatīs exactly the same construction as used with the newer CRC 1712 and 1/10 scale cars or the Associated 12R5 or 10R5. Itīs simple but works.
V12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2009, 03:41 PM   #2154
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

ah ok i wonderd about that, it is indeed simple then. I thought maybe the bottom part was on a ball end of some sort. Thanks for clearing that up
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2009, 01:34 AM   #2155
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

i checked out those bluse asso standoffs but are they not too long?
The asso standoffs are 19.1 and 11.1 mm

I checked the manual of the gen10x and they use standoff of half an inch = roughly 12.7mm? meaning the 2 standoffs of 19.1mm are to tall? It seems if i am going to use these standoffs with the springs they won't reach the bottom plate? Or i have to use something like a ballstud on de bottom plate to let the springs rest on or maybe screw the set screws all the way down?

edit: i checked the first page and on the original pantoura there are some sort of ballends where the bottom part of the springs are resting on. Then the longer standoffs are ok when used in that way. I gues that solution didn't work that well as they changed it on the gen10x?

Last edited by 2wdrive; 05-10-2009 at 04:53 AM.
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2009, 09:32 AM   #2156
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Those are Pantoura sized standoffs. The springs did rest on a chrome plated steel ball that was threaded internally it rested on a beveled washer (pyramid washer). I should have detailed pics early in this thread. These parts are available from CRC. They worked fine. The Gen X 10 has taken steps to lower the center of gravity and lighten the car.
__________________
[email protected]
TeamCRC.com Mikes-HobbyShop.com

Last edited by John Stranahan; 05-10-2009 at 09:59 AM.
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2009, 12:48 PM   #2157
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

well if it is good for crc genx then i gues it be a better solution. I think i will look a little further for a 1/2inch standoff but thanks alot for explaining!
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2009, 01:18 PM   #2158
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

If you get the CRC red standoffs they will be the correct size for the Gen-X 10, but they will be red.
__________________
[email protected]
TeamCRC.com Mikes-HobbyShop.com
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2009, 02:51 PM   #2159
Tech Regular
 
Mr. MR4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Malta, EU
Posts: 297
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default Applying additive to 1/10 pan car Foam tyres

Hi,

Tried using some additive on foam tyres for my 1/10 pan car today, but car was sliding around for the first three laps..... after that grip was ok. How long do I have to leave additive on for? any tips?

Thanks
Mr. MR4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2009, 06:13 PM   #2160
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Generally leave traction compound on for a long time. 15-20 min. If you start a run with wet tires you are going to slide around. To bring those first laps in you have to wipe the tires off with paper towels or a rag to dry them. Take a least one lap to bring them in then.
__________________
[email protected]
TeamCRC.com Mikes-HobbyShop.com
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks John Stranahan Electric On-Road 839 11-01-2011 04:31 PM
Xray T2R, 2100 mah 2c LiPo, and Mabuchi power: Tech tips and Tricks gacjr0 Electric On-Road 46 11-18-2007 10:09 AM
tips and tricks XXX-NT streetstock Electric Off-Road 2 05-13-2005 10:50 AM
Tips & Tricks Steevo Electric On-Road 54 08-08-2003 10:09 PM
Tips And Tricks rctc3 Electric On-Road 36 03-10-2002 10:54 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:18 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net