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Old 09-22-2006, 03:08 PM   #166
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I think you'd be better off getting an L2 top and bottom plate than extending the pinion...
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Old 09-22-2006, 06:51 PM   #167
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Pro ten Holland runs with that extended pinion. He would probably tell me if it would not work. The motor bearings on the Novak Brushless are ovesized compared to normal mod motors. I think it will hold up fine with the slightly longer pinion. I am only going a little farther than is possible without an extended pinion. An L2 bottom plate won't fit. Completely different lower suspension. An L3T top plate will fit. Here is a pic. This and the new Associated L3T center front shock mount allowed me to lower my shock bodies to the knife. Seems to work very smooth. I have new shock tops coming.

I have all the associated pan car manuals printed here on the desk. I have looked through them for compatible parts.

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Old 09-22-2006, 08:11 PM   #168
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Hmmmm..... Got anyone to make you a lower plate.... I always forget the link/T-bar... I should know since I own a Carpet Knife, 10L2 and 10L3T....

I do the same with the manuals... From what I have seen the L3T R/S hub is irreplaceable....

I need to break down and get a pantoura... If for nothing else but to be able to run my regular side by side packs... I have wires already cut and tinned for when I run my pan cars, I split a few packs up...

I've looked at the Maxamps saddle packs and eventually may get one... I love my L3T on carpet....
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Old 09-23-2006, 01:04 AM   #169
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Corally cars have run with extended pinions for decades without any problems. I already run this setup for three years now without any problems. There's really no need to switch to a different rear pod.
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Old 09-23-2006, 05:42 PM   #170
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air temp 101 F! Track dusty.

I did a few more experiments today.

Low roll center kit
I noticed little change with this kit. The car handled very similar to what it did under the same conditions without the kit. I do like the fact that the pivots are closer to the chassis and thus stronger than before. I also like that the center ball can now be locked down tight with a locknut.

Center Springs
I tried 3 center springs today. Losi 12.5, 15, Associated 17.5 lb/in. There was a slight increase in steering going to the 17.5. the 12.5 and 15 were indistinguishable. Use this spring for a slight change.

Front Ride Height
The front springs are really stiff. This means the front end has a low tendency to bottom out compared to the back on my track. I was able to lower the front chassis height to 3 mm without picking up new scratch marks on the chassis underneath. The car felt more hooked up this way, but the body was ticking on the track. Maybe this was the benefit, a lowered body. I will need to trim it.
In a later test I got some damage to the very leading edge of the chassis that reaches a bump before the front wheels. I may have to go to 4 mm.

Front Camber
The front tires have some wear now. They are wearing faster on the outside untreated portion of the tire. Probably time to true them up and add a little negative camber. They might be down to a good size now. Should be about 2.3 diameter when trued. The Pink Rears are wearing very evenly. They are down to 2.350.

Wide car kit is finished. Bodies are on the way. No 200 mm gas outlaw body yet.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-26-2006 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 09-25-2006, 09:52 AM   #171
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Nice spacing method. . .looks like it will work great!
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Old 09-25-2006, 04:47 PM   #172
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Boomer-Thanks

airtemp 82F Track temp 116. Finally some relief. Track dusty.

Side Shock oil Viscosity
I tried three different shock oils on the Associated TC3 side shocks. 30 then 35 then 20. With the 35 weight (SAE) stability on the straight was reduced and the car tended to spin late in the corners. This was reduced with 30 weight. With 20 weight I had the best improvement. I could give more throttle earlier on the straight. The rear end had more grip later in the corner. The shocks have the #2 Associated Piston. This last run with 20 weight went 13 minutes! before the car became hard to drive.

I am very pleased with the cars performance now. I think that it is now optimized for this Stilletto body. I got 40 minutes of run time in four runs today. Further improvements will come from changing the body to one with more downforce. It is starting to look touring car fast on the infield on the dusty track as my skill with it increases.

Front Camber
I had too much front grip late in the corners with about 1/16 inch negative camber and trued tires at 3.350 inch. I went back to zero camber.

Video Coming Soon
I have a 5 minute video of the car running against a Nitro car on the treated track in hand now. Mini DV tape. Wish I had the camera. I might get it on disk this Wednesday.

I am running Purple Front Pink Rear. Might try a harder front tire once I settle on which one. I only need a small change so that I can drive the car a little harder, but not get a push on the sweeper.

Apogee LiPo's (lithium Manganeese)

I have tested all my LiPo's recently. Capacity has dropped to 3200-3300 mA-h from 3800. I think that my newest packs actually shipped below specs as described on another thread. Average voltage at a 20 A discharge has dropped from 7.25 to 7.0. Reminds me of a NiMH deterioration rate. They still feel good in the car and run it for 12 minutes or more on a hooked up track.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-26-2006 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 09-25-2006, 04:54 PM   #173
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This is what I did when I raced pro-10 at nationals.

Used corally silver star tires on the rear and prep them this way:
Leave adative on for aprox 1 hour
5 mins before the race rub the adative in with a towel
Use a circular motion over and over
Keep going till the tires just feel sticky rather than wet

Rubbing the adative in really helped my tires hold traction for a whole 5 min race. It's better when the towel is a bit adative soaked so you rub it in more than just soaking the adative off.

The Silverstar tires were much softer than anything else I ever saw. I think just about every one was using them on the rear.

When the tires are more than half worn they will not work very well.
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:01 PM   #174
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Can't wait to see the video.

I think the new high down-force body will make your car handle the way you want.
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Old 09-25-2006, 10:49 PM   #175
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JevUK-thanks for the post. Here is a link for those tires. I'll give them a try. Price looks good.
I make no promises as to the video quality. We may have to reshoot it from a higher vantage point. I'll see when I get my hands on the camera.

McAllister Nissan
Here is a wide pan body I found in stock at Stormer. Shows 4 in stock. Looks interesting.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=MCA146

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Old 09-25-2006, 11:00 PM   #176
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Talking Pantoura Team and found some bodies 4 U CHEAP

I have been following your Pantoura for a while now, some real good info has been brought to the table. We are puting together a Pantoura for our 24 hour enduro, world record atemp.

Check it out here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=116327

yes it is true, not a hoax. Anyhow with the support of CRC, including one of Team CRC's team driver. If you don't mind, or would ike, I can post some set-ups here.

I found a killer deal on some GTP bodies from AE, I got 2 of them shipped 2 day for $28.00
http://www.rc10.com/misc/internet_specials.htm
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:47 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crunchracer
I found a killer deal on some GTP bodies from AE, I got 2 of them shipped 2 day for $28.00
http://www.rc10.com/misc/internet_specials.htm
crap at 3.99 i'll take a dozen! lol
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Old 09-26-2006, 09:35 AM   #178
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Crunchracer-Thanks for the links. Feel free to post a setup. It would be welcome. Sounds like an exciting project you have going. I hope that we will get some pics. I think the Pantoura is an ideal car for your event due to the very long runtimes possible.

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Old 09-26-2006, 09:48 AM   #179
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Default Selling SpeedSpec 1/10 Pan car

Anyone interested in a nice 1/10 pan car from SpeedMerchant, the 1/10 SpeedSpec, please PM me ASAP. I have 2 of them. One with regular 4 cell and brushless motor, and another with LIPO pack and brushless motor. Both are about 2 weeks old. I have decided to keep the LIPO & BL car, and will sell the regular 4 cell car. Selling the roller chassis, with origila box, manula, and left over parts. Car is in great condition, and is the fastest thing in our track. Its got great handling and super smooth. Will include a new, clear, never used xtra 1/10 200mm LOLA body from ProtoForm...you'll love this thing.
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Old 09-26-2006, 10:08 AM   #180
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Default 200mm Bodies

John: maybe you should try the HPI Saleen S7R body: http://hpiracing.com/index2.htm After testing with different bodies, this is the best working one, much better than the Stilleto one. It also has more of that GTP look, and better rear wing and adjustments making it possible to maximize and fine tune to your needs. This is my body of choice now...its works and has the looks to steal the show!!
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