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Old 07-27-2007, 04:25 PM   #1696
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Boomer has described my situation dead on. The lack of rear traction made the car squirrely. Every time I slip a tire just a little it will drive the car crooked.

I think caps would be the way to go at the dragstrip. The rubber relies more on molecular adhesion for grip than the foam. I think the rubber tires would have had good traction on this VHT treated rubber surface.

I am just the support crew. I bring my car with very few mods just for fun. No serious speed attempt with me. Same gearing I have used on the track occasionally.

I do think that my car was not topped out due to traction problems.

If the front of my pan body had serious front downforce it would not tend to fly at high speeds. The wind tunnel told the same tale. Not much front downforce. Plenty of rear downforce in the back for the stock body GTP. I think you guys are mistaken here.

I did run a Gurney strip which Drew Pioneered here. I did not do as neet a job constructing it as he did.

I might test one more time in front of my house when Nick gets through with the radar.

I am getting a pair of spectrum lap timing equipment modules to do further tests on the Powell wide chassis as well as on my own.

I have also had an interesting new development. I will be doing some Prototype testing for Novak. You will not be able to read the results here though.

64 pitch gears just don't hold up on a 1/10 pan outdoors. Neither will an Aluminum pinion. Get some hardened steel pinions, preferably hardcoated ones. Use 48 pitch spurs.

John
I recommend you speak with Hector Garcia, and well known and respected
pan car master guru...multiple tile state champion and he can easily give you some tips and help you...One of the nicest guys you'll ever deal with. His rctech.net name is: speedxl
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Old 07-27-2007, 06:50 PM   #1697
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Well I think I have spoken with him. He came down and drove my car for a bit. Or maybe that was another Hector.
John

Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-27-2007 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 07-29-2007, 05:57 PM   #1698
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Delrin upper A-arm from CRC

I got in a pair of these upper A-arms from TeamCRC.com. They are machined from Delrin (a brand of nylon) solid stock. I used these on my modified lower arms to add some needed flexibility in a side crash on our heavy boards. So far so good. They took quite a hit. They are considerably stronger than the stock pieces and have a nice dark bluish black color. On a normal pan car you don't break upper arms much, but if you have broken one or want to dress up the front a little these arms are nice. The stock upper arms do tend to get loose on the Turnbuckle after a couple of good hits. The Nylon should avoid this problem by having more flexibility.

The work on the track has been stalled due to almost daily rains. The boards have been painted and reinstalled. It was dry enough today to practice, but I had nothing out there. The track was very slick from being rolled out with a heavy roller and very dusty as well. Not a good combination for 2 wheel drive. As soon as it dries a couple of weeks, it will be sealed with a sand containing sealer and traction will be very good. No good news to report from todays session.
John
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:56 AM   #1699
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John:

1) I ordered a PRC Max10 kit...I am planning to use my Pantoura as a donor...I'll ne using my CRC red alum l/R bulkheads, my AE front end, and my durashocks. The PRC Max10 kit will provide me w/ lower chassis, lower and upper rear pod plates, brace. I have ordered a few t-bars, and all that's left if the rear axle...I guess I'll need a longer rear axle, right? My current axle is an IRS axle w/ hubs for 1/10 scale 200mm cars...is there a way I can still use it on a wide pan car, or will I have to get a new one? Maybe using spacers on the left side, and corally long pinion for the right? If I do need a new longer axle than what I have, would you know which is the one I need? IRS has some, but I'm not sure if they are all the same or if i need a specific one...your advice here is greatly appreciated...

2) 2) Which body are you running lately...is that the AE nissan? What do you recommend- I'll be running wide pan car this weekened, and its on hot weather, outdoor asphalt, 70X140 track, with 713 FT of running distance. I'll be running my LIPO and 3.5 Orion BL motor, and would like to know what body to you recommend...I need a body w/ downforce, but not as much drag as lola body...
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Old 07-30-2007, 09:03 AM   #1700
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Old 07-30-2007, 10:56 AM   #1701
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yyhayyim- You are converting a link car to a T plate car. This will require you to buy some extra small pieces.

two ASC 4335 T bar socket
two 4336 steel pivot balls
two 4438 tweak screws. Omit if you install side shocks.
two 4526 spacers for the back of the Tplate.
two 6292 screws with 4449 nuts
one 8192 brace
one 8207 cross brace (the pantoura brace may work here)

Downlod the RC10L2 manual from ascociated and use it as a guide for these parts.

From IRS (Stormer has these) you need

1-IRS2121BL Right side D-drive Hub Aluminum blue for Wide Road Pan Car
1- IRS2101 Wide Pan Graphite axle.
1- IRS528BL long diff cone spacer blue
.
1 IRS207 Ceramic Diff Balls ( you will never go back to standard steel balls) These are $20 from IRS and possibly misspriced at Stormer.

This list comes from my Wide Pantoura list back in the thread.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...st#post2851931

Note the PRC Max 10 is a wide rear pod car. You will not need extended pinions. You may need a pair of 1/8 inch spacers if your Pantoura has only 1. 1 ASC 8321 Rear axle spacers Aluminum (2)

Body
I am running an Associated Nissan (Stormer has a few of these) and a Toyota GT1 which is no longer available at stormer. McallisterRacing.com has a Toyota GTP with separate wing which I may try.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 07-31-2007 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 07-30-2007, 07:32 PM   #1702
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John...thanks for taking the time to write all that. I really appreciate it. Sorry for making go thru all the trouble. Its evident you really love the hobby and pan cars in general, and helping others come along. Cant thank you enough and keep up the good work


Oooops...one more thing...would anyone know which T-bar I need for the wide pan car? I know AE makes some but I cant find the PN# for it...tower and stormer have them but I dont know which one to get for my ProMax 10...

Last edited by yyhayyim; 07-30-2007 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 07-30-2007, 09:05 PM   #1703
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asc8191 symetrical fiberglass .075"
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WWW.STORMERHOBBIES.COM helping keep pan cars alive!

Turns out not where, but who your with that really matters... DMB
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:34 AM   #1704
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John:

1) IRS2133 is back in stock at IRS. However, in that axle kit, it says it comes with IRS2103, which is a 1/10 SS axle...I dont know if that will work for wide pan cars...you recommend IRS2101, which according to IRS website is a pro axle for wide pan cars, but the IRS2133 kits have another axle- IRS2103, which acording to the website is a "1/10th Associated Style Graphite Pro Axle - For SS cars (D-Drive)" ...maybe you know the difference between the two axles, if there is any? Also, the right side hub in kit 2133 seems to be different than the #2121 hub you mention. I have sent Dave Irrang an e-mail and asked him these questions and hopely he will just replace the axle and hub if needed...

2) also, for the left side clamp hub, I can use my IRS clamp hub from my Pantoura, right? Maybe I'll need a spacer, which I have a couple of spares...

TallyRC- thanks for the t-bar PN...

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Old 07-31-2007, 11:27 AM   #1705
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YYhayyim- I was mistaken. do not get the 2133 kit. It was not adequately described on their web site. It does not fit the wide road pan car with non offset pod. Use the individual part numbers to make a kit unless he will do the swap you mention. I will correct my post.
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:50 AM   #1706
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John, have you looked at Novak's new 13mm sintered rotor yet? Steve Weiss indicated that it allows for the use of larger pinions to hit the optimum gear ratio when used with motors like the 3.5. Apparently it offers more drivability (and brakes) in some cases as well.
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Old 07-31-2007, 04:07 PM   #1707
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Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
YYhayyim- I was mistaken. do not get the 2133 kit. It was not adequately described on their web site. It does not fit the wide road pan car with non offset pod. Use the individual part numbers to make a kit unless he will do the swap you mention. I will correct my post.
John
I spoke w/ Dave Irrang and he told me he has the wide pan car axle/hub kit in stock, but that its not listed in the website. You actually have to call in and request it. He has made the changes and the right parts shold be shipped out today...
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Old 07-31-2007, 06:09 PM   #1708
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Syndrome-I have not tried the 13 mm rotor. Novak is sending me a box of prototypes to test. It might have one in it.

My feelings are that it will make the 3.5 motor feel more like a 4.5. The 4.5 gives the rear tires on a pan car a little too much shock out of slow corners in my opinion. I will give it a try eventually. Thanks for the report.
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Old 07-31-2007, 06:52 PM   #1709
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Anyone test a wide pan car with the Mcallister NTP90 GTP wide body? It looks like it will work nicely with mod motors...enough downforce but much less drag than lola type bodies...Stormer Hobbies just got a few in!!!
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:27 PM   #1710
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Test and photos back only a few pages.
John
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