Prototype: Brush Hood Alignment Tool, Thoughts?
#1
Prototype: Brush Hood Alignment Tool, Thoughts?
Here is a picture of our redesigned Brush Hood Alignment tool. What makes this different than our old one is that you will now be able to go through both brush hoods at the same time. Plus there is a hole to go through the bushings/bearings to make sure everything is aligned. Keep in mind you have to align each hood individually to get the maximum performance out of a motor.
We are thinking of making the handle bigger so it fits better in the hand.
So tell my your opinion, what do you think?
We are thinking of making the handle bigger so it fits better in the hand.
So tell my your opinion, what do you think?
Last edited by Kraig; 02-04-2003 at 02:26 PM.
#2
R/C Tech Founder
I think you need to supply R/C Tech with one for "review" and such! haha
#3
Tech Apprentice
Are you also including the piece that goes through the bushings/bearings for initial alignment?
#5
Tech Apprentice
Kraig,
The picture you posted doesn't include the entire tool. So.. I have a couple of questions.
1. Is the center of the piece you have pictured serrated so you can get enough grip to remove the tool after tightening the brush hoods?
2. Does the bushing/bearing alignment portion have a serrated end to help pull it out?
The picture you posted doesn't include the entire tool. So.. I have a couple of questions.
1. Is the center of the piece you have pictured serrated so you can get enough grip to remove the tool after tightening the brush hoods?
2. Does the bushing/bearing alignment portion have a serrated end to help pull it out?
#6
Keep in mind that this is a prototype.
The part where you grab onto will have a different dimension than the part going through the brush hood so it will be easy to hold onto. This one currently has a 3 1/2 inch long handle.
I have not thought about that with the other piece. Usually when you put it through the motor if it isn't aligned then you have other problems. This part will not be for aligning the bushings or bearings. It will be for checking to make sure that everything is in the proper position. I don't have this part yet, thus the reason for no picture.
Here is a picture of the entire tool. It isn't the greatest picture but it will give you an idea.
The part where you grab onto will have a different dimension than the part going through the brush hood so it will be easy to hold onto. This one currently has a 3 1/2 inch long handle.
I have not thought about that with the other piece. Usually when you put it through the motor if it isn't aligned then you have other problems. This part will not be for aligning the bushings or bearings. It will be for checking to make sure that everything is in the proper position. I don't have this part yet, thus the reason for no picture.
Here is a picture of the entire tool. It isn't the greatest picture but it will give you an idea.
#7
I'm confused with the use of the long handle. With the second tool through the bushings/bearing, the main way of holding the motor is with the second tool so that it doesn't fall out while you tighten down the hoods. If you hold the motor with the long handle, the second tool may fall through. If I'm wrong, please post a demonstration photo.
#8
Tech Adept
I can't tell. Are there Chamfers on it? Need those so you don't accidentally cut yourself. A easy grip on the piece that goes through the bearings would be nice, but not necessary. Meaning it would be nice, but if it cost a lot more then no thanks. Keep in mind cost. People won't pay that much more for extra features.
#9
I will post a demonstration picture tomorrow.
There are chamfers on it so you do not cut yourself. It is a little hard to drive a car with band aids on.
The long handle is so when you grip the tool and use it to help position the brush hoods. Once you have it in place you tighten everything down. Then you remove the tool from the brush hood by holding onto the handle.
The only time you would use the other piece is if you have to start completely over aligning the hoods. You put the tool all the way in until you see the hole through either the bushing or bearing. Then you would drop the straight piece of rod (same size as your arm) through the motor so that it is all lined up. Basically, what you have is a + type of configuration.
I am terrible at explaining things without pictures but I hope this helps.
There are chamfers on it so you do not cut yourself. It is a little hard to drive a car with band aids on.
The long handle is so when you grip the tool and use it to help position the brush hoods. Once you have it in place you tighten everything down. Then you remove the tool from the brush hood by holding onto the handle.
The only time you would use the other piece is if you have to start completely over aligning the hoods. You put the tool all the way in until you see the hole through either the bushing or bearing. Then you would drop the straight piece of rod (same size as your arm) through the motor so that it is all lined up. Basically, what you have is a + type of configuration.
I am terrible at explaining things without pictures but I hope this helps.
#11
Trips, I had one with both and what happens is that when you do the one for upright brushes you have very little material left on the sides. When the hole was put in there the material mushroomed out thus causing more work because you have to bring it back into specifications. So we have eliminated it, however that can be changed if there is enough demand.
Another reason why we did that was that the new Reedy Modified motors due out sometime this spring will have laydown brushes. The com will also be bigger than what we are used to seeing on today's motors. With the bigger com you will not have to worry about the brush wrap like you do with the Trinity motors. That is one of the reasons why you see people triming the sides of the brushes when they run an Epic can.
Another reason why we did that was that the new Reedy Modified motors due out sometime this spring will have laydown brushes. The com will also be bigger than what we are used to seeing on today's motors. With the bigger com you will not have to worry about the brush wrap like you do with the Trinity motors. That is one of the reasons why you see people triming the sides of the brushes when they run an Epic can.
#12
Basic,s
the idea is great,but......and it,s a big but for "true" brush alignment the hood will be out of lign.this is because there is a small but appreciateble amount of play between the bush and hood.
to align the brushs correctly you need to do them 1 at a time.the only way to check for correct alignment is then to run the motor up and see where the new brush is marking the com,then move the hood accordingly until the mark is dead center then repeat for the other brush
takes time but it,s the best way
there is a better and fuller explanation on Big Jim,s forum
http://rccars.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=19ms
also alot of other motor tuning related stuff
to align the brushs correctly you need to do them 1 at a time.the only way to check for correct alignment is then to run the motor up and see where the new brush is marking the com,then move the hood accordingly until the mark is dead center then repeat for the other brush
takes time but it,s the best way
there is a better and fuller explanation on Big Jim,s forum
http://rccars.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=19ms
also alot of other motor tuning related stuff
#13
Tech Initiate
It also looks strangely similar to the bar he (Big Jim) has coming out in a couple weeks. Actually almost totally identical.
The idea is you use it to get 180 apart as a starting point then you can pull it halfway out and have good leverage to move a single hood around when it's half screwed down to get the proper alignment to account for the brush cocking.
Kraig mentions this:
Implying that he indeed knows that 180 apart is not the ideal situation.
The idea is you use it to get 180 apart as a starting point then you can pull it halfway out and have good leverage to move a single hood around when it's half screwed down to get the proper alignment to account for the brush cocking.
Kraig mentions this:
Keep in mind you have to align each hood individually to get the maximum performance out of a motor.
#15
Surprising
I,ve been using a very similar piece of kit i had a friend make for me only difference was i omitted the hole for the shaft !