iPearl

iTrader: (96)

For some reason i like my ESC this way the best.
I still have to Cut all my wires and direct solder.
I have tried all sorts of position with the ESC in different places LOL so its ZIP tight for Testing purposes. I think this is my final position LOL.

The Rev

iTrader: (3)

Hey all; i have 4 type r's plus a huge parts lot (!) that i will be posting to ebay shortly. The cars are in excellent condition.

I am still keeping 2 cars to run, and they have been the cars i have run for the last 2 years, so the 4 i am selling are in near new condition. They were just my parts cars that i am putting back together to sell.

I'm planning on doing a buy it now on e-bay for ~160-185$ each depending on what upgrades are on the cars.

if interested, pm me and i'll try and get some pics to you this week.

--Steve

PS: happy new year!

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

I switched back to the Jr this Summer, My car always felt too "edge" by the main race (humid cool temp=huge traction increase) with a I link. since I got the JR back car felt less edge, less initial steering but more overall steering, even front tire wear is a big plus. overall I felt my car more neutural with it

I'm going back to the Carpet for first time with a JR link/season on this Sunday and we will see what happend there.

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

I've been running the standard front camber link for a while, and just used that graphical roll-center calculator to find a JR-link setting with nearly identical total camber gain and static roll center. It will be interesting to see how the difference in roll center migration affects the car's ability to crash on my command.

As for ESC placement, I stand it up on the left when running a forward weight bias, but lay it down on the right when running 50/50 or rear weight bias.

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

that some interesting wiring going on your chassis, especialy for a PT, did you made a bracket or some?

dfiantii

iTrader: (18)

My local track is Speedworld Raceway in Roseville, Ca. Have not had the time to go out there to do more than practice when I originally started with a TT-01 from Tamiya. Now that has become my drifter car and I got a Corally RDX for RCGT and the "R" will be my 13.5 car.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

What are the differences between a Jrx-S Pro and the Jrx-S Type R?

Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

The JRX-S Pro is the 1st generation car and it had a split battery layout and motor and layshaft in the middle.. also another unique design. The Type R is the latest release and the best!

RKeasler

iTrader: (5)

Not sure what was meant by split battery layout but the Pro was mid motor and the Type R is rear motor design thus type R moniker.

Rod

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

I gotta funny story for this Type-R car

I thought the type-R was another "hop up edition car" of the JRXS pro.

hahah this is what happend

while I was away from this hobby I checked out a JRXS Pro and didnt like it (too short of A arms, plastic bulkheads and 3pc upper deck!)

then heard of the Type-R, I thought it's a same short arm, 3 confusing deck car with all the bling bling.

when I was ready to returned to this hobby I didnt even borther to look at a Type-R cause of that!

after I came back to the hobby with my old XXX-S and struggling, buddy of mine felt bad and pull out a used car from his trunk to let me try and that s what it was!!, the TYPE-R in my hand, it wasn't a graphite "edition" of the JRXS as I expected! it is a totaly diffrent car!

since then I got my groove back.~ yahoo!

to make my story short, this is not your daddy's JRXS, it's a type-R

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

john da wew kinda summed it up but basicaly the type-r is an evolution if the pro designed to work better with rubber tyres. The end result was a car that is better in every way. You ould be hard pressed to find a faster TC currently on the market.

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

Does anyone know that diamater of the Hudy US Standard Allen Wrench Replacement Tip (3/32" x 120mm) pt# HUD129341 or any of the other allen wrenches?

This may be off topic, but thanks for the help!

~Jason.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for clarifying everyone... I thought they looked a bit different, but was unsure...

Greg Sharpe

iTrader: (15)

I ran the JR-Link last night, and can say without a doubt that it hit the line far more consistently. The roll center calculator showed that using the lower outer pin and #3 inner ball stud location provided the same instantaneous roll center and total camber gain as the standard link with a long outer ball stud and the #1 inner ball stud position. I ran that a few times, but the ESC war has been pushing our 17.5 class to ever faster speeds so I went looking for more front traction. I then ran it in the higher outer position (above the C-hub) and the lowest/longest inner position (#3 on the front shock tower). I was able to run right at my fast lap more often with this, and I couldn't find anything bad about it. (FYI- this was indoor rubber tire with jack the gripper)

Yeah, it's just a little strip of lexan. Our transponder loop is a bridge, and the normal chassis position for transponders was causing low signal strength.

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Greg, you have a foam setup for 17.5 Type-R? I ran foams on my rubber setup and uh ... it wasn't really very pretty to watch ahahah.