52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
10-01-2009, 05:54 AM
I used to feel this way, and I used to prove it with lap times, although I was still off pace of where I should have been. I now only run a spool, I've found that the spool rewards smooth driving, where a diff can be a crutch. Make sure you have a complete spool setup on the car like haynes or fairtrace's setup and give it a try.
10-01-2009, 07:24 AM
I’m going to be getting my type r off the shelf in a couple of weeks and I don’t remember what I have on it for set up. So does anyone have a set up for out door asphalt the track should be open with some tight areas and it will be low traction.
10-01-2009, 08:46 AM
I used to feel this way, and I used to prove it with lap times, although I was still off pace of where I should have been. I now only run a spool, I've found that the spool rewards smooth driving, where a diff can be a crutch. Make sure you have a complete spool setup on the car like haynes or fairtrace's setup and give it a try.
10-02-2009, 10:30 PM
First night out on carpet..
Tonight was my first run at the club and I must say that I was happy with how the car was running. The night would have been better, had the computer been working to capture all the excitement.
All I got to race was one qualifier and the computer decided to take a turn for the worse.
Anyhow, before logging on, I read on da john wee's blog that he painted a new body for his ride and he mentioned that the rear was loose with the LTC body.
The first thought that popped into my mind is front/rear weight bias. I too had this problem with my ride, and at times it was frustrating as I didn't know how to fix it. So last week, I decided to clean up the wiring on my car and choose to make one slight adjustment with my electronics.. So I moved them closer to the front/rear centre line, making the rear heavier. I don't know exactly what the f/r bias is, but I did notice the following.
Last year, with the same body (a stratus) and the electronics f/r bias even or close to it, the car was better than better.
This year, I move the electronics rearward and put the mid body post on the top deck, and the car was noticiably different. Traction at first was low, but as the eveninig progessed, the car came to life as traction came up.
I setup the car, to ensure the static roll centre was above ground, but as close to it as possible and set ride height to 5.5 in the front and 6mm in the rear. Some may think it's crazy, but this is called positive drag and it will help with rear grip. I was super impressed on how the car handled on medium traction carpet.
For my last tip, I highly recommend using the mid body post. Why? put your body on the car with and without it and compare the difference. How much does the body move without it? The middle post increases the amount of downforce transferred to the carpet as the body bends less.
Tonight was my first run at the club and I must say that I was happy with how the car was running. The night would have been better, had the computer been working to capture all the excitement.
All I got to race was one qualifier and the computer decided to take a turn for the worse.
Anyhow, before logging on, I read on da john wee's blog that he painted a new body for his ride and he mentioned that the rear was loose with the LTC body.
The first thought that popped into my mind is front/rear weight bias. I too had this problem with my ride, and at times it was frustrating as I didn't know how to fix it. So last week, I decided to clean up the wiring on my car and choose to make one slight adjustment with my electronics.. So I moved them closer to the front/rear centre line, making the rear heavier. I don't know exactly what the f/r bias is, but I did notice the following.
Last year, with the same body (a stratus) and the electronics f/r bias even or close to it, the car was better than better.
This year, I move the electronics rearward and put the mid body post on the top deck, and the car was noticiably different. Traction at first was low, but as the eveninig progessed, the car came to life as traction came up.
I setup the car, to ensure the static roll centre was above ground, but as close to it as possible and set ride height to 5.5 in the front and 6mm in the rear. Some may think it's crazy, but this is called positive drag and it will help with rear grip. I was super impressed on how the car handled on medium traction carpet.
For my last tip, I highly recommend using the mid body post. Why? put your body on the car with and without it and compare the difference. How much does the body move without it? The middle post increases the amount of downforce transferred to the carpet as the body bends less.
10-05-2009, 06:36 AM
Hey Max
Glad to hear other type-R driver doing well
I raced at parking lot style track yesterday here at staten island, NY with a Mazda Spd6, I been running LTC-R for this past summer, I found out LTC-R is beeter for the square up corners ( dog leg, hair pin curves) and Spd6 is better on radius (round) turn corners.
someone said something like this before "why change chassis set up to make one body handle like the other?" I think I do agreed with that, Bodies is one of our tuning options for a given track (lay out) to make a car go faster.
I like that 5th body mount idea, I m going to give a shot at Jackson, NJ (long straight) next weekend.
Glad to hear other type-R driver doing well
I raced at parking lot style track yesterday here at staten island, NY with a Mazda Spd6, I been running LTC-R for this past summer, I found out LTC-R is beeter for the square up corners ( dog leg, hair pin curves) and Spd6 is better on radius (round) turn corners.
someone said something like this before "why change chassis set up to make one body handle like the other?" I think I do agreed with that, Bodies is one of our tuning options for a given track (lay out) to make a car go faster.
I like that 5th body mount idea, I m going to give a shot at Jackson, NJ (long straight) next weekend.
First night out on carpet..
Tonight was my first run at the club and I must say that I was happy with how the car was running. The night would have been better, had the computer been working to capture all the excitement.
All I got to race was one qualifier and the computer decided to take a turn for the worse.
Anyhow, before logging on, I read on da john wee's blog that he painted a new body for his ride and he mentioned that the rear was loose with the LTC body.
The first thought that popped into my mind is front/rear weight bias. I too had this problem with my ride, and at times it was frustrating as I didn't know how to fix it. So last week, I decided to clean up the wiring on my car and choose to make one slight adjustment with my electronics.. So I moved them closer to the front/rear centre line, making the rear heavier. I don't know exactly what the f/r bias is, but I did notice the following.
Last year, with the same body (a stratus) and the electronics f/r bias even or close to it, the car was better than better.
This year, I move the electronics rearward and put the mid body post on the top deck, and the car was noticiably different. Traction at first was low, but as the eveninig progessed, the car came to life as traction came up.
I setup the car, to ensure the static roll centre was above ground, but as close to it as possible and set ride height to 5.5 in the front and 6mm in the rear. Some may think it's crazy, but this is called positive drag and it will help with rear grip. I was super impressed on how the car handled on medium traction carpet.
For my last tip, I highly recommend using the mid body post. Why? put your body on the car with and without it and compare the difference. How much does the body move without it? The middle post increases the amount of downforce transferred to the carpet as the body bends less.
Tonight was my first run at the club and I must say that I was happy with how the car was running. The night would have been better, had the computer been working to capture all the excitement.
All I got to race was one qualifier and the computer decided to take a turn for the worse.
Anyhow, before logging on, I read on da john wee's blog that he painted a new body for his ride and he mentioned that the rear was loose with the LTC body.
The first thought that popped into my mind is front/rear weight bias. I too had this problem with my ride, and at times it was frustrating as I didn't know how to fix it. So last week, I decided to clean up the wiring on my car and choose to make one slight adjustment with my electronics.. So I moved them closer to the front/rear centre line, making the rear heavier. I don't know exactly what the f/r bias is, but I did notice the following.
Last year, with the same body (a stratus) and the electronics f/r bias even or close to it, the car was better than better.
This year, I move the electronics rearward and put the mid body post on the top deck, and the car was noticiably different. Traction at first was low, but as the eveninig progessed, the car came to life as traction came up.
I setup the car, to ensure the static roll centre was above ground, but as close to it as possible and set ride height to 5.5 in the front and 6mm in the rear. Some may think it's crazy, but this is called positive drag and it will help with rear grip. I was super impressed on how the car handled on medium traction carpet.
For my last tip, I highly recommend using the mid body post. Why? put your body on the car with and without it and compare the difference. How much does the body move without it? The middle post increases the amount of downforce transferred to the carpet as the body bends less.
10-05-2009, 06:51 AM
I too am a person who believes that the only proof that counts is the laptimes. However a spool dose not reward you with lap times. The spools biggest advantage is its race times and subsquently the increased "race ability" you get from using it. I am a firm believer that a oneway is second to nothing for lap times but it also leaves you open to being outbraked into a turn and being unable to correct a mistake. On carpet/foam it is generally proven that you run a diff as braking is not usually required and diffs give you a smooth driving feel.
10-05-2009, 06:59 AM
I had a tuning extravaganza with my type-r this weekend. I set it up for VTA since I have a Mi3.5 that I am going to use for regular tc classes for a while. I was testing it outside my house and it was very loose with the setup I had on it for the outdoor track. I changed alot to calm the car down, I ran low roll center all around, 25lb front springs, heavier shock oil up front, etc. When I got to the track the car was a little loose on power, and tracked it down to a dirty diff, some dirt got into the thrust area and was making it lock up. Now the car was pushing a lot. So back to high front roll center, 12lb front springs, 20lb rears, dropped the front link on the tower, raised and flattened the rear, added front camber, took off the front sway bar. I got the car a lot better, but was still missing some corner speed, I think the car rolls into the corner a bit too hard and scrubs, but I couldn't seem to get the rear to rotate on it's own, so it needed hard brakes for the 3 180's on the left side of the track. I was very good on the transitions.
10-05-2009, 07:28 AM
10-05-2009, 07:46 AM
10-05-2009, 08:16 AM
+1 i have 3x the one way parts in my box w/ blown bearings in the center tubes.
10-06-2009, 03:29 PM
It is with great reluctance I have to sell my type R its got loads of spares with it plus the lipo tray and flying fox shaft.
PM for details
PM for details
10-06-2009, 05:38 PM
10-06-2009, 06:11 PM
Metalracer2
The track your racing at is it anything like the one I go to up here in Roseville? I have a brand new Type R that I am pulling off the shelf after about a yr to enter in the 13.5 class. Was trying to make my beginner car a tt01 faster for WCGT. I got a used Corally RDX that I am going to use for that as well as probably make my Tamiya into a drifter. Still going to try to make it faster.
http://www.speedworldraceway.com/
The track your racing at is it anything like the one I go to up here in Roseville? I have a brand new Type R that I am pulling off the shelf after about a yr to enter in the 13.5 class. Was trying to make my beginner car a tt01 faster for WCGT. I got a used Corally RDX that I am going to use for that as well as probably make my Tamiya into a drifter. Still going to try to make it faster.
http://www.speedworldraceway.com/
10-06-2009, 06:52 PM
10-06-2009, 08:59 PM
Spool
Finally got the spool. Great part! My stock spool failed after one practice run at Nats. I put in the Fox spool and went right back out. This time the outdrives started to spin. I hand drilled and tapped eight 4-40 set screws in to the plastic hubs to hold in place. This setup ran all week with no failures on the highest bite track that I have ever seen. Ridiculous Bite! I would love to see metal steering hubs and C hubs next.
After a little setup help from Team Xray the JRX-S Type R was great. Some better drivers were able to turn consistent 10.4 second laps with a 17.5 motor. Good enough to be in the top of the A main with a better driver.
Oh Ya Losi did win a National Title! Just not on the race Track.
After a little setup help from Team Xray the JRX-S Type R was great. Some better drivers were able to turn consistent 10.4 second laps with a 17.5 motor. Good enough to be in the top of the A main with a better driver.
Oh Ya Losi did win a National Title! Just not on the race Track.