52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
07-24-2009, 09:50 PM
#9931
From personal exerience the GTB is the slowest Brushless ESC I have used (high end ESC's). The rave at the moment is the Tekin RS or try a SP GT2.0 (what I use) or a LRP SPX. All of these will improve the performance of the same motor you currently use. Advise for software on both the SP and Tekin speedies can be found on their respective threads.
As a note though there is more and more talk of reducing the TC weight limit. Due to this the Tekin becomes the best option due to its lack of weight and small size.
As a note though there is more and more talk of reducing the TC weight limit. Due to this the Tekin becomes the best option due to its lack of weight and small size.
07-24-2009, 11:35 PM
#9932
From personal exerience the GTB is the slowest Brushless ESC I have used (high end ESC's). The rave at the moment is the Tekin RS or try a SP GT2.0 (what I use) or a LRP SPX. All of these will improve the performance of the same motor you currently use. Advise for software on both the SP and Tekin speedies can be found on their respective threads.
As a note though there is more and more talk of reducing the TC weight limit. Due to this the Tekin becomes the best option due to its lack of weight and small size.
As a note though there is more and more talk of reducing the TC weight limit. Due to this the Tekin becomes the best option due to its lack of weight and small size.
07-25-2009, 12:47 AM
#9933
Hi,
This might be a silly question but what was wrong with the original front engined JRX-S that made Losi design the Type R?
This might be a silly question but what was wrong with the original front engined JRX-S that made Losi design the Type R?
07-25-2009, 04:53 AM
#9934
Its a GTB, Profile 1, with Braking maxed and a SS13.5. The whole car and electronics package was purchased used (assembled) that way and is plenty fast for my ability, but getting close to 180* at the end of a 6 min. run. I know its close on temp, but I like them to operate under 150 if possible.
I own a GTB and that is where i started, it was a great solid speedo for me to get started in brushless but unfortunately it will not allow you to go as fast as you like and keep the temps down. As a for instance, moving from software version 1.89 to software version 1.98 on my Tekin Rs and changing nothing else brought my temps down by about 10*F and made me faster.
Your speedo is going to be the limiting factor in you getting to below the 150* mark. As well, 180* is not healthy for your motor. I've got a couple exploded rotors from that line of motors to prove it
. I by no means am suggesting that you go out and spend money, only helping you set the proper expectations as to what you will get out of the GTB. If you gear down by 2 teeth you will be in the temp range you suggest, depending on your track size the 5.0 ish roll out can give you some decent low end but your top end may be lacking.
If you troll around on the for sale section of rc tech you will now and again see a Tekin rs for around 115$ to 1254. GTB's still fetch about 80$ to 100$ so you may be looking at a low out of pocket if you chose the used route to upgrade.
07-25-2009, 04:55 AM
#9935
07-25-2009, 05:28 PM
#9938
With a gtb i had to run about 4.3 to be competitive at the tracks i frequent. Try the rollout you suggest, and see where your laptimes are, then push your self to set an average lap time (over 10 laps) to be 1sec faster. There will be a little tweaking involved here, go up a tooth, then down a tooth do the same thing average out your lap times changing nothing else. See what kind of patter develops. 5.0 is a good place to start, but i suspect you will only end up back in the mid to lower 4s to be competitive.
I own a GTB and that is where i started, it was a great solid speedo for me to get started in brushless but unfortunately it will not allow you to go as fast as you like and keep the temps down. As a for instance, moving from software version 1.89 to software version 1.98 on my Tekin Rs and changing nothing else brought my temps down by about 10*F and made me faster.
Your speedo is going to be the limiting factor in you getting to below the 150* mark. As well, 180* is not healthy for your motor. I've got a couple exploded rotors from that line of motors to prove it.
I by no means am suggesting that you go out and spend money, only helping you set the proper expectations as to what you will get out of the GTB. If you gear down by 2 teeth you will be in the temp range you suggest, depending on your track size the 5.0 ish roll out can give you some decent low end but your top end may be lacking.
If you troll around on the for sale section of rc tech you will now and again see a Tekin rs for around 115$ to 1254. GTB's still fetch about 80$ to 100$ so you may be looking at a low out of pocket if you chose the used route to upgrade.
I own a GTB and that is where i started, it was a great solid speedo for me to get started in brushless but unfortunately it will not allow you to go as fast as you like and keep the temps down. As a for instance, moving from software version 1.89 to software version 1.98 on my Tekin Rs and changing nothing else brought my temps down by about 10*F and made me faster.
Your speedo is going to be the limiting factor in you getting to below the 150* mark. As well, 180* is not healthy for your motor. I've got a couple exploded rotors from that line of motors to prove it
. I by no means am suggesting that you go out and spend money, only helping you set the proper expectations as to what you will get out of the GTB. If you gear down by 2 teeth you will be in the temp range you suggest, depending on your track size the 5.0 ish roll out can give you some decent low end but your top end may be lacking.
If you troll around on the for sale section of rc tech you will now and again see a Tekin rs for around 115$ to 1254. GTB's still fetch about 80$ to 100$ so you may be looking at a low out of pocket if you chose the used route to upgrade.
07-25-2009, 11:19 PM
#9939
07-26-2009, 05:40 AM
#9941
All I'm having rear diff issues and cannot seem to get it as smooth as I'd like. I have bulit many diffs over the years so its not not a lack of skill. I seem to remember there was some good advice way back but after ages looking through the thread I cannot find it. Can anyone help.
Thanks
Thanks
07-26-2009, 06:45 PM
#9942
All I'm having rear diff issues and cannot seem to get it as smooth as I'd like. I have bulit many diffs over the years so its not not a lack of skill. I seem to remember there was some good advice way back but after ages looking through the thread I cannot find it. Can anyone help.
Thanks
Thanks
after dothat mod you will need to remove that copper ring as well, I thought need that in there to make up the thickness but wasnt right, I guess D ring is thicker than a o shaped ring.
you also wanted to get a better thrust from either Xray or some company that Todd Hodge recommended, that s whrere I got mine from and it works lot better than a stock one.
anyone remember that company name?
07-26-2009, 07:39 PM
#9943
First thing I can recommend you is do the D-ring mod, with taht copper ring on one side I can't never tell when is "the right point" by holding a spur and spin the wheels test.
after dothat mod you will need to remove that copper ring as well, I thought need that in there to make up the thickness but wasnt right, I guess D ring is thicker than a o shaped ring.
you also wanted to get a better thrust from either Xray or some company that Todd Hodge recommended, that s whrere I got mine from and it works lot better than a stock one.
anyone remember that company name?
after dothat mod you will need to remove that copper ring as well, I thought need that in there to make up the thickness but wasnt right, I guess D ring is thicker than a o shaped ring.
you also wanted to get a better thrust from either Xray or some company that Todd Hodge recommended, that s whrere I got mine from and it works lot better than a stock one.
anyone remember that company name?
http://www.mcmaster.com/
07-26-2009, 08:25 PM
#9944
this is the site you would get the thrust bearing from, as for size i cant remember its been awhile since i ran a losi...
http://www.mcmaster.com/
http://www.mcmaster.com/
that s da company! I think this is the part http://www.mcmaster.com/#7806k53/=2x8js3oh BTW Joey!
YOU TRAITOR!
