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Old 04-13-2008, 02:16 PM
  #6946  
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Chris,
I think your analysis is correct. Make sure to lube each ball thoroughly and set your diff so as not to slip. That should eliminate the problem.
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:06 PM
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Does anyone know a part number of some shims for the hinge pins? I'm trying to shim out some play in the arms and I cant find the right size. The hinge pins are 1/8", but I'm not finding shims that size. Thanks.
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jla8874
Does anyone know a part number of some shims for the hinge pins? I'm trying to shim out some play in the arms and I cant find the right size. The hinge pins are 1/8", but I'm not finding shims that size. Thanks.
You mean these? http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...n-CR%2C/Detail
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:10 PM
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Use motor shims
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Old 04-14-2008, 03:07 PM
  #6950  
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Thugs - I have my leads from my SMC 4000 coming out of the right side of the car (away from the belts). The label of the battery is facing down, and it works fine.

JLA8874 - Like Fairtrace I also use motor shims. Works great.

I have a question? I'm running the JR links up front on carpet with foams. I'm using them because i can't get a regular link to work to save my life. At the finale at the gate I tried Schreff's setup and couldn't drive it to save my life. The front end was much to twitchy and I was traction rolling. I made a couple adjustments to limit camber gain and though it helped some the only way I could calm the front down enough to drive consistent laps was to go back to the JR links. What gives? I know I drive like a jackass most of the time, but I can build and setup a car and I copied Schreff's setup to a "T". Is that setup just REALLY aggressive? I even had the expo down like you guys stated... -20.

I wouldn't normally worry about it but I don't think my setup is a good setup as the front and rear way different and I think that though its easier to drive its not efficient and doesn't carry as much corner speed as it should.

Last edited by JKA; 04-14-2008 at 03:10 PM. Reason: im a jackass
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Old 04-14-2008, 04:21 PM
  #6951  
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Originally Posted by JKA
Thugs - I have my leads from my SMC 4000 coming out of the right side of the car (away from the belts). The label of the battery is facing down, and it works fine.

JLA8874 - Like Fairtrace I also use motor shims. Works great.

I have a question? I'm running the JR links up front on carpet with foams. I'm using them because i can't get a regular link to work to save my life. At the finale at the gate I tried Schreff's setup and couldn't drive it to save my life. The front end was much to twitchy and I was traction rolling. I made a couple adjustments to limit camber gain and though it helped some the only way I could calm the front down enough to drive consistent laps was to go back to the JR links. What gives? I know I drive like a jackass most of the time, but I can build and setup a car and I copied Schreff's setup to a "T". Is that setup just REALLY aggressive? I even had the expo down like you guys stated... -20.

I wouldn't normally worry about it but I don't think my setup is a good setup as the front and rear way different and I think that though its easier to drive its not efficient and doesn't carry as much corner speed as it should.
I would say yes, it is aggressive. I like a car that responds to instant wheel movement. At Vegas and the Birds... I too had a little trouble with tipping a little. It wasn't traction rolling, but rather picking rear wheels up. I only made 2 adjustments to fix that.

#1. Glue the edge of the front tire. I don't normally do the whole edge, but just the seem so the tire doesn't rip from side force. I do glue the whole edge if my tipping issue is a big problem. I do NOT glue the rears at all.

#2. Very simple... less front tire traction compound. At the Birds, I used a little less than half on the front tire. If I used more, it would be way too hard to drive. I used traction as a majority of my adjustment. It helped a ton using less. The car does still turn with less.

I know those are 2 very basic things, but simple is always best. You can see from my setup from Vegas and the Birds, there isn't a big difference. They were both Jack the Gripper races with similar style layouts. The Vegas setup was a little easier to drive, but steered less. At SnowBirds, we found more speed, but you had to be on the wheel.
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Old 04-14-2008, 04:55 PM
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Schreffs setup worked great for me at the Carpet Nationals. The only change I made was added camber gain upfront. The car was dialed. I did glue the front of the tires myself. And like Schreff I only used about 1/4 of traction on the front tire.

Schreff are you running at the Paved Nat's? And will you be making the trip to Jonesboro the following weekend? Hope to meet you sometime.
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Old 04-14-2008, 06:49 PM
  #6953  
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Has any one tried to solder their batterys on the right side instead of the left side?I was looking at my car tonight and it looks like it might work.
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Old 04-14-2008, 07:29 PM
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I ran Schreffler's setup at the birds and changed a few things. Instead of magentas up front I used cyans, instead of one degree of toe in the rear three degrees calmed it way down, and I increased the amount of droop about .75mm. The car was glued but wasn't as twitchy as when I first set it down with the original setup.
Casey
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Old 04-14-2008, 08:34 PM
  #6955  
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Originally Posted by schreff
I would say yes, it is aggressive.
Thanks man!
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Old 04-15-2008, 03:58 AM
  #6956  
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I have those Yeti, I need the much thinner steel ones to make finer adjustments. I have a bag of the Losi ones, but the smallest in there is like 3/16". Guess I'll look for some motor shims. Thanks.

On a side note, has anyone seen these new carbon fiber INFUSED arms? I can see these catching on and becoming popular with other brands, especially if they're actually functional.

Last edited by jla8874; 04-15-2008 at 04:10 AM.
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Old 04-20-2008, 02:53 PM
  #6957  
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Hey guys I need a bit more rear end grip on corner exit. I'm running the Ripon setup for rubber and its nearly there just a little tail happy on exit. Any ideas?

Thanks
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Old 04-20-2008, 04:19 PM
  #6958  
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Hey Tim i'd try going to one softer spring or possibly take out some dual rate if you can afford it.
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Old 04-20-2008, 07:37 PM
  #6959  
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FYI - for anyone who prefers CVD's to the other style drive shafts, you can use the JRX-S or XXX-S stub axles with cyclone or TC3 shafts. i'm currently using the composite TC3 shafts and they work great. no binding, no rubbing.
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Old 04-20-2008, 07:39 PM
  #6960  
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Hey Russ were you out at speedworld on saturday?
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