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Team Losi JRXS Type-R

Old 02-21-2011, 08:42 PM
  #12826  
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Originally Posted by squarehead View Post
I know the JRXS Type R is falling into obscurity as Losi discontinues the chassis, but I still think it's a great car, and I'm glad to have a couple in my possession again. They will be perfect cars for VTA and USGT classes.

I figured I'd share my two new (to me) cars as I prepare them for the Scale Nationals coming up in April...






No sways on the rcgt but sways on the vta car???

Mind sharing your setup for rcgt?
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:11 AM
  #12827  
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hey duckstang, nice cars ! I got mine about 8 mths ago..such a high learning curve... do u find the exotech a big diff compared to stock top deck ?

prev poster : Yes, i balanced my car left / right and front / back, needs a lot of weight to make the racing minimum of 1450 in my club. That's y they sell the steel batt tray from Losi. Im just too cheap to spend $35..rather buy $10 in weights.
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:55 AM
  #12828  
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Originally Posted by BrodieMan View Post
That's a very tidy electronics setup Squarehead. What rims are on your USGT chassis? Also did you have any issues fitting the Ballistic in aside from cutting the solder tabs. I have a Ballistic waiting to go in but I have been holding off because I don't want to muck it up.
Thanks, the Ballistic is an easy fit after you massage the solder tabs. All I did was take a very stout needle nose pliers and fold them vertical. Just a little bit of work was all it needed to make them straight up. The other option was to use a .125" motor spacer, but I didn't want to change the balance of the car more than I needed to (it already needs more right weight).

The wheels on the RCGT are white HPI Volk TE37s in 3mm and 6mm offset for a 200mm body. HPI X-patterns in the Pro compound, too.



Originally Posted by DuckStang View Post
No sways on the rcgt but sways on the vta car???

Mind sharing your setup for rcgt?
Yeah, really only because the swaybar kits are $14 EACH and I didn't want to buy 4 sets. I have always had good luck with swaybars on VTA cars, so they were there to test. The RCGT will be an asphalt car for the summer, so it wasn't as crucial for me to buy more swaybars. More cost than anything else.

I'm using very slight variations of the Lucas Urbain carpet setup on both of these cars. The only differences are 40wt oil up front, 1mm spacer under the outer link in the rear, stock 3 rear toe and not 2, and the JR link is still on the RCGT car (probably not for long, though). Both cars have the steal LiPo tray, and are only using the front chassis supports.


dmakrc, those are my cars, and the odd top deck is actually a stock top deck that had been relieved for more flex. The VTA car is my primary car, so it went to that one.


doug
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:59 AM
  #12829  
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Smile diffs

Oic, for ur carpet setup, can u share w/us newbs how u are running ur diffs ? The front tighter than the back ? And is the back very loose ?

On mine, whenever i give it throttle, it kinda breaks the back end out ... im suspecting the front is too tight.

Love the purple btw.
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:05 AM
  #12830  
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hey guys, what do u think of this :

To make weight i need the steel tray. Instead Im thinking of putting all my weights on my topdeck instead. Do u think this will affect the handling of the car as the steel lipo tray is at the bottom of the chassis and this setup will put all the weight at the topdeck area instead ?
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:06 AM
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Front diffs are tighter than the rears, but only slightly. I am awaiting front spools, which will be in both cars by the time they hit the track.

What diff heights are you using? What roll center positions on the arms?
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by dmakrc View Post
Do u think this will affect the handling of the car as the steel lipo tray is at the bottom of the chassis and this setup will put all the weight at the topdeck area instead ?
Yes, a lot. CG goes up, handling changes drastically. I would keep all of the weight as low as possible on the car. Losi would have made a steal top deck if raising the center-of-gravity was a good thing.
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:11 AM
  #12833  
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ahhh tru that squarehead..thanks...i'll keep it as it is...

jus an FYI, i bought the new 150c - 7.2v batt from Maxamps...had to shoe horn it in and makes the plastic tray bow out slightly...so def dun think it will fit w/the steel one...in case anyone is thinking of getting it.

Duck, my diff heights are set up like the manual...and the belt tension is 4mm...

what do u mean by "roll center positions on the arms " ? which arms ?
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:44 AM
  #12834  
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Mark, be very careful with that front belt. The problem I am having with my is that when trying to tighten it to where it does not skip, it flexes the bottom chassis quite a bit and I get tweak. I have a very fine line between the tweak and a non skipping belt.

I also run my ESC on the top deck, not because I want it there, but because I sometimes "brush" the wall.....well....I tell people I am doing reliability testing for the losi... I tried running it on the lower deck, the car did handle better, but it puts it in a risky situation as it will take the impact if anything were to happen.

Also, be careful with the battery "bowing" the battery tray, it will most likely also tweak the chassis quite a bit.

This car is a pain in the rear to get right, I get it right on occasions, but I have seen when it can do in the hands of a good driver with a good setup.
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:49 AM
  #12835  
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Originally Posted by dmakrc View Post
ahhh tru that squarehead..thanks...i'll keep it as it is...

jus an FYI, i bought the new 150c - 7.2v batt from Maxamps...had to shoe horn it in and makes the plastic tray bow out slightly...so def dun think it will fit w/the steel one...in case anyone is thinking of getting it.

Duck, my diff heights are set up like the manual...and the belt tension is 4mm...

what do u mean by "roll center positions on the arms " ? which arms ?

To answer your question about roll center of the arms, look at the manual on step b-04 and step c-03. You will see that the pins of the arms can be set on the suspension blocks as high or low. Make sure to check droop and ride height after changing anything.

I run my high in front, low in back.
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Old 02-22-2011, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by dmakrc View Post
Oic, for ur carpet setup, can u share w/us newbs how u are running ur diffs ? The front tighter than the back ? And is the back very loose ?

On mine, whenever i give it throttle, it kinda breaks the back end out ... im suspecting the front is too tight.

Love the purple btw.
I have been running foams lately with the pretty much the kit foam setup with front Overdrive. They front belt is very loose but it's been working great and it doesn't skip under hard braking. I have found overdrive relieves a lot of the tendency for the rear of the car stepping out because the front end is pulling the car. If the rear diff is tighter than the front than the rear end is going to want to overtake the front end and rotate. Front diff tighter than rear all the time I think. Also shimming the arms to get rid of slop took a lot of the wander out of my car on the straight. This car is a bit finicky to get setup properly but when you take your time and get it right this car rocks.
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:57 AM
  #12837  
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Originally Posted by DuckStang View Post
Mark, be very careful with that front belt. The problem I am having with my is that when trying to tighten it to where it does not skip, it flexes the bottom chassis quite a bit and I get tweak. I have a very fine line between the tweak and a non skipping belt.
Do you have a hacked top deck? I am trying to figure out why your belt skips so much and only a few things make sense; crap wedged in the pulleys, old worn belt, or an amazingly flexible car.
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
Post up a pic of your car if you have a minute. My spidey senses tell me something is wack here.
ended up putting the esc & receiver on top deck. Took the 75grams off, and its perfect now. Cannot say I felt it handled any different.

its still not perfect, the jrx-s has got to be one of the hardest cars to setup right. My HB cyclone tc is heaps easier to drive and I run them both with the same ride height/droop settings. The type R however is getting there with some more setup time.
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
Do you have a hacked top deck? I am trying to figure out why your belt skips so much and only a few things make sense; crap wedged in the pulleys, old worn belt, or an amazingly flexible car.

No sir, top deck is still in original condition, belts are original, not worn at all, pulleys are clean. Still trying to figure this thing out. I am going to blow apart the diff carriers and the motor mount and place them on a mechanic's straight edge to see if they are true.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by DuckStang View Post
No sir, top deck is still in original condition, belts are original, not worn at all, pulleys are clean. Still trying to figure this thing out. I am going to blow apart the diff carriers and the motor mount and place them on a mechanic's straight edge to see if they are true.
I can't bend my chassis/topdeck with my hands, so it baffles me how you claim to bend it with a tight belt. Besides, I've run full blown 60mph modified without skipping belts, so I just keep thinking that something is massively wrong.
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