Team Losi JRXS Type-R
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Gwoodrc,
Would you be willing to share your VTA setup for the 'R'. I also bought a second car mainly for parts, and I'm also thinking I'd like to try the R in VTA so any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Mike
Would you be willing to share your VTA setup for the 'R'. I also bought a second car mainly for parts, and I'm also thinking I'd like to try the R in VTA so any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Mike
I recently ran a purple car, had 2, 1 for 17.5 rubber and 1 for vta. I replaced the rubber car with a type r and was .3 faster my first day at the track.I picked up another car mainly for a parts car, but then decided to give it a shot at vta, now my last vta held the track record and I TQ'd and won the last trophy race with it, I went .5 a lap faster the first day with the type r! Did I mention I love this car.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
With the diff the two important upgrades are good diff balls and ceramic thrust. Once you get these in it will improve the diff alot. Sounds like you have this under control anyway. I also use the TC5 diff spring between the end of the diff bolt and the thrust bearing. I find this gives a very smooth feeling diff which is less sensitive to tension adjustment.
You can also do the double d ring mod but it has some big disadvantages on dirty tracks.
You can also do the double d ring mod but it has some big disadvantages on dirty tracks.
Anybody out there want a complete one-way diff in trade for a complete ball diff ?? Our track is small and tight....I know I'll never use the 1-way. Money's tight and I still have to buy the Fox layshaft. If somebody has both I'll buy the layshaft and trade for the 1-way. PM me if you can help. Thanks.
Care to elaborate more on the diff side of things?
So far, mine has had sanded+polished plates, ceramic balls, ae thrust greese, schuey diff lube. Also on the list still to do are ceramic thrust balls (losing the cage, and going with 9balls), and running a 3/32“ drill bit through the ball holes to free up the balls a little... Will also be looking at how much material is on the pulley, as at the moment it feels like the pulley is touching the plates a little, so will get rid of that if I can
Otherwise, my car now also has an Urbain style top deck and side posts, and a lightly dremelled LiPo tray to hold my bobbly bottomed cells in better
Got a couple of issues that I munched the outdrives on the epoxied up diff/spool first time out, and some rubbing issues with the centre pulleys (had to ream out the countersinking a little, and sand the face of the pulleys a little)... But both of those should be solved with the FF stuff
Otherwise, car went together pretty well given it was built trackside on sunday/monday... Think total dremel time was only 20mins As for the ontrack performance, did feel pretty good, in all bar two sections... Kept snapping round due coming off power, but I've put this down to a combination of rubbing issues, and running drag brake on the speedo accidently! Otherwise, felt very smooth into the turns, and seemed to rotate suprisingly well. Tbh, didn't get enough clean runs in to form too much of an opinion, but the other cars going round also looked good, and setting competitive times compared to the BTCC times from the day before
Regards
Ed
So far, mine has had sanded+polished plates, ceramic balls, ae thrust greese, schuey diff lube. Also on the list still to do are ceramic thrust balls (losing the cage, and going with 9balls), and running a 3/32“ drill bit through the ball holes to free up the balls a little... Will also be looking at how much material is on the pulley, as at the moment it feels like the pulley is touching the plates a little, so will get rid of that if I can
Otherwise, my car now also has an Urbain style top deck and side posts, and a lightly dremelled LiPo tray to hold my bobbly bottomed cells in better
Got a couple of issues that I munched the outdrives on the epoxied up diff/spool first time out, and some rubbing issues with the centre pulleys (had to ream out the countersinking a little, and sand the face of the pulleys a little)... But both of those should be solved with the FF stuff
Otherwise, car went together pretty well given it was built trackside on sunday/monday... Think total dremel time was only 20mins As for the ontrack performance, did feel pretty good, in all bar two sections... Kept snapping round due coming off power, but I've put this down to a combination of rubbing issues, and running drag brake on the speedo accidently! Otherwise, felt very smooth into the turns, and seemed to rotate suprisingly well. Tbh, didn't get enough clean runs in to form too much of an opinion, but the other cars going round also looked good, and setting competitive times compared to the BTCC times from the day before
Regards
Ed
With the diff the two important upgrades are good diff balls and ceramic thrust. Once you get these in it will improve the diff alot. Sounds like you have this under control anyway. I also use the TC5 diff spring between the end of the diff bolt and the thrust bearing. I find this gives a very smooth feeling diff which is less sensitive to tension adjustment.
You can also do the double d ring mod but it has some big disadvantages on dirty tracks.
You can also do the double d ring mod but it has some big disadvantages on dirty tracks.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (66)
I don't get credit for that, I have to thank Jon Wee (SweepRacingUSA) for the setup. I have tried different setups that were fast with other people driving my car but they didn't fit my driving style. Jon posted a setup back on page 779, post #11680 that I currently am using on both cars, the only difference is I didn't have any swaybars to use on the vta and I think they would help seeing as it is lifting the inside rear tire in the corners but i'm almost a second faster than my closest compediter so i'll leave it alone for now. The other difference is I used 35wt in front and 30wt in rear losi oil on both cars. Like others have said, the car has a wide sweet spot, but for me I struggled to find a setup that i was cofortable driving, but when I did, I went from just getting to the amain to being a contender Good luck! Thanks, Greg Gatewood.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Thanks Greg!
I had seen John's setup and was thinking that might be a good place to start so I'll give it a try this weekend and hopefully I'll have some success with it too!
Cheers,
Mike
I had seen John's setup and was thinking that might be a good place to start so I'll give it a try this weekend and hopefully I'll have some success with it too!
Cheers,
Mike
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (66)
I forgot to mention that I'm running on a med-hight bite carpet, just fyi. Thanks, Greg Gatewood.
How long before we get a new Losi Touring Car?
It would be great to see one come out based on a variation of the current design with mid mounted motor and battery but will actually fit the Lipos out there without mods and come with a front spool stock.....
I hear Associated is working on a new car....Cmon Losi!!
I hear Associated is working on a new car....Cmon Losi!!
The type r still is an awesome car, it has very few shortfalls and they can be overcome quite easily. My cars had sat on the shelf for well over a year, and still had perfectly bled shocks and smooth diffs (using all stock parts).
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Otherwise, car went together pretty well given it was built trackside on sunday/monday... Think total dremel time was only 20mins As for the ontrack performance, did feel pretty good, in all bar two sections... Kept snapping round due coming off power, but I've put this down to a combination of rubbing issues, and running drag brake on the speedo accidently! Otherwise, felt very smooth into the turns, and seemed to rotate suprisingly well. Tbh, didn't get enough clean runs in to form too much of an opinion, but the other cars going round also looked good, and setting competitive times compared to the BTCC times from the day before
Regards
Ed
Regards
Ed
You can get rid of alot of drag by doing some work on the bearing eccentrics. Wiith the diff, bearings and O-ring installed, you might find that when you spin the diff it won't spin as freely as it should. This is because there is no side play in the assembly and the O-ring is putting tension on the inner bearing race. All you need to do to the eccentric is to remove some material from the inner part of the bearing recess, where the bearing outer race sit's up against. You can scrape material off with a flat blade hobby knife, or what I did was I used a 3/4 in. Dremel sanding disc attatched to an arbor and chucked in a drill and with slow speed just work the sanding disc into the corners of the bearing recess. Remove only enough material to get a very small amount of side play, just enough so the diff spins freely. The bearings are 1/2"X3/4" so the sanding disc fits perfectly.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
So I ordered my layshaft and spool from Flying Fox nearly 2 weeks ago, no email confirmation, no communication at all, anyone know whats happening with Flying Fox?
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Sorry about that. I have been in the middle of the Australian desert without communication for nearly 3 weeks. Since I returned I have been snowed under. I will express post your order tomorrow.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
No problems, I heard you were away last week, just wasn't sure if you were back or not.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Hey guys,
Just thought I'd put up some pics of my R ready for the first national this weekend... think I'm on top of it now!
Car is currently sporting a custom made LiPo tray (0.5mm thick), so I can mount in the beefy Yungtong cells... has ment a bit of dremelling of the rear bulkhead (still more to go to make sure the cells don't touch), and have to tape the cells in, but I think it looks pretty good.
If others are interested, might look to getting some properly machined...
Regards
Ed
Just thought I'd put up some pics of my R ready for the first national this weekend... think I'm on top of it now!
Car is currently sporting a custom made LiPo tray (0.5mm thick), so I can mount in the beefy Yungtong cells... has ment a bit of dremelling of the rear bulkhead (still more to go to make sure the cells don't touch), and have to tape the cells in, but I think it looks pretty good.
If others are interested, might look to getting some properly machined...
Regards
Ed