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Old 01-04-2010, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Furman View Post
I understand droop and how to adjust it, but was wondering what everyones preference is measuring it? Personally hold the car up with your hand and then trying to accurately measure droop is not very accurate, but I guess close enough for some!
I measured with a ride height gauge then once in a while check with a Losi plastic gauge to make sure Left and right is equal, I found the losi guage very acurate.

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Old 01-04-2010, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Furman View Post
Also, do you have a link to that roll center calc?
You'll find here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...culator-5.html

Also if you use Win7 read the last page.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Furman View Post
How do you measure your droop? Do you use the Losi tool and measure 7mm, or do you use blocks and measure it that way? Do you measure to the axle pin? Everyone does it differently. Also, do you have a link to that roll center calc? thanks,; Chris
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Set your ride height then raise the chassis until the wheels just lift off the table and measure it again. Check the difference and thats your droop. So i Greg's case 5.5 ride height, lift and it reads 7.5 and it give him 2mm of drop
Yeah, props to Rui, he showed me how to measure droop this way even though he didn't explain it right. He drives better than he types. Hold the tires down with your pointy fingers, pull the shock tower up with your thumbs, and then slide the ride height gauge under a side of the chassis with a pinkie. We do it this way to take into account any subtle twists ans slop in the chassis, towers, bulkheads, arms, etc. If I could afford to replace parts non-stop, I'd use the plastic gauge. That roll center calculator is cool, huh?

Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
yes #3 with high on a JR link is about as same as reg camber rod set up, but it gain camber in more linear motion, makes it more consistant.
Yeah close, the regular camber link with a long ball stud at the hub and in the #1 hole is almost dead nuts even with the JR link in the lower position and #3 hole on the tower. However, moving to the upper position on the JR link actually doubles the camber gain. It only works that way because the total camber gain is so small in these examples, 0.25' in the first case and 0.50' in the second case.

Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
I haven't been able to get a low roll center car to work on rubber tires for me. Guess it's just driving preferences.
Our carpet is literally tacky from the Jack the Gripper sauce, so these low roll centers were just there to reduce the likelihood of traction rolling.
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris Furman View Post
I understand droop and how to adjust it, but was wondering what everyones preference is measuring it? Personally hold the car up with your hand and then trying to accurately measure droop is not very accurate, but I guess close enough for some!
I have a way with droop which gives me great results when setting tweak. I use setup wheels for rideheight and adjust for different worn rubbers. With setup wheels on I use my droop blocks (19mm high) and measure the gap between the setup wheels and the bench (setup board). Add that number too the rideheight setting. Then subtract that number from 19 and you have the droop. With the setupwheels on I can do my droop, swaybar tweak, rideheight and tweak all in one pass.
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:13 PM
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Hey greg

i see you have a white bladder post it on your set up sheet. what brand is that? Tamiya? is it softer? I found a stock black one kida brittle in this weather, I was at the RC madness lastweek and a track Temp was 35F! shattered few parts in there skating.
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
Hey greg, i see you have a white bladder post it on your set up sheet. what brand is that? Tamiya? is it softer? I found a stock black one kida brittle in this weather, I was at the RC madness lastweek and a track Temp was 35F! shattered few parts in there skating.
The white bladders are LOSA5327, much softer than the black ones, which I didn't know were OE in the Type-R. Learn something new everyday! Dude, you broke a shock bladder? WTF!

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Old 01-05-2010, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
The white bladders are LOSA5327, much softer than the black ones, which I [u]didn't[/i] know were OE in the Type-R. Learn something new everyday! Dude, you broke a shock bladder? WTF!
Losi makes 2diff bladders? thanks for the info

no I didnt brake a bladder even thought a black bladder felt like a piece of graphite.

I broke many other parts, in30F temp, one shot one killed.

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Old 01-06-2010, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
Losi makes 2diff bladders? thanks for the info
The white ones might have been for the JRXS (mid-motor), although I'm too tired to get off the couch and check my parts list from that car. <---tired smiley
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
The white ones might have been for the JRXS (mid-motor), although I'm too tired to get off the couch and check my parts list from that car. <---tired smiley
The black ones actually came out before the Type R since I was using them in my JRXS when I still had it.
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:15 AM
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Has anybody tried the different bladders back to back? Is there much of a difference?

I recently tested different rebound settings from extreme to zero and found no difference in feel or lap speed. I imagine that different bladders would only effect rebound?
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Old 01-07-2010, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Has anybody tried the different bladders back to back? Is there much of a difference?

I recently tested different rebound settings from extreme to zero and found no difference in feel or lap speed. I imagine that different bladders would only effect rebound?
from my offroad time I alway feel diffrence of the compressions, rough track=more. smmooth track = less rebounds always helped me.

I wanted to try white one on the carpet ASAP

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Old 01-07-2010, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
from my offroad time I alway feel diffrence of the compressions, rough track=more. smmooth track = less rebounds always helped me.

I wanted to try white one on the carpet ASAP
I also noticed a difference. When I correctly set rebound to about 4mm, I achieved even better side to side weight transfer, this is without the use of sway bars. On a bumpy surface it is you don't want to use too soft of an oil, then your car will bottom out, which you don't want.
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxRain View Post
I also noticed a difference. When I correctly set rebound to about 4mm, I achieved even better side to side weight transfer, this is without the use of sway bars. On a bumpy surface it is you don't want to use too soft of an oil, then your car will bottom out, which you don't want.
The Type R has a wide chassis at the front and rear. This causes it to bottom out more than other cars unless you have a heavier oil and or springs. With rubber tyres on asphalt it seems the type R runs better a lot stiffer than other cars.
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:05 AM
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Hey guy's i'm looking for an RCGT setup for a Type R. Is there a good base setup out there?

Thanks
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Old 01-09-2010, 03:02 AM
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Well..... I'm back!

I was forced to stay awya form my Losi (and all related upgrade project) for job reason, but now the new season is approaching and I'll do my best to race as mcuh as possibile.

We will have a new class (for us...) using 13.5 motor (single brand, Lipotech).

I need all the ideas and suggestions from you 13.5 guys (I was 4.5 before...)

I gearing should be in the 4-5ish area. Will be worth use the 41 gears inestad of the 42 in the diff? Just to avoid pinions big as frying pans...
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