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Team Losi JRXS Type-R

Old 09-09-2009, 03:50 PM
  #10471  
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Do the Epic Duo motors fit the JRXS with out having to hack up the chassis?
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Old 09-09-2009, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
Found a source of the problem....
That makes a bunch more sense! The only clearance issue I ever had was the thinnest aluminum hex pinch bolts would drag on the face of the hub, which is where I'd sand off a little bit of material. Just fyi, and glad you got your issue figured out.
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Old 09-09-2009, 04:54 PM
  #10473  
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Originally Posted by John Tag View Post
Glad ya liked it..I also run lower inside link in front outdoors..I love the extreme high speed steering it gives....
I guess the only thing to do now is switch out the shock oil to your weights. Stiffer in rear really? I have black pistons up front and oranges in rear. The rear of the car is a little "dumpy" in the chicanes and a little to stuck so I bet that will work.
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
That makes a bunch more sense! The only clearance issue I ever had was the thinnest aluminum hex pinch bolts would drag on the face of the hub, which is where I'd sand off a little bit of material. Just fyi, and glad you got your issue figured out.
yeah Thanks, yes that thin hex rubs little, I shaved mine too before. and I stop using those latley and stick with medium in back and thick on front, KISS rule
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
yeah Thanks, yes that thin hex rubs little, I shaved mine too before. and I stop using those latley and stick with medium in back and thick on front, KISS rule
Really? The only reason I am using the thin hex adaptors in the rear is because my rear axles were cut down too short (by some crazed speed eater). Once I buy new axles, I am immediately making the rear track as wide as possible to gain front bite. How come you run the rear narrower?
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Old 09-09-2009, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Sharpe View Post
Really? The only reason I am using the thin hex adaptors in the rear is because my rear axles were cut down too short (by some crazed speed eater). Once I buy new axles, I am immediately making the rear track as wide as possible to gain front bite. How come you run the rear narrower?
I felt more stable around right hand side sweeper at Jackson with little wider front.
I cut my axles on xxx-s too..had to buy all new axles once diffrent thickness hex became available. I thought I was only one
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MonkeyFist View Post
Do the Epic Duo motors fit the JRXS with out having to hack up the chassis?
I don't see any reason why not, i fit the giant novak motor in my old car.
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by vabroom View Post
Sorry, I should have wrote it this - Your site doesn't seem to let you choose how many teeth you want.
Got it fixed up on the pinion, the spurs haven't arrived yet but when they do you will be able to choose teeth count.

I also fixed international shipping so it quotes you out the correct shipping charges not some ridiculous numbers it used to quote out.
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by YmeBP View Post
Got it fixed up on the pinion, the spurs haven't arrived yet but when they do you will be able to choose teeth count.

I also fixed international shipping so it quotes you out the correct shipping charges not some ridiculous numbers it used to quote out.

you rather created each item with diffrent item #, problem on that drop down menu is it dont give you part # on packing slip, hard to pick parts when you packing them. just my 0.02 from my past expirience with a OS commerce.
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Old 09-09-2009, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MonkeyFist View Post
Do the Epic Duo motors fit the JRXS with out having to hack up the chassis?
They fit fine with no mods necessary at all. Not sure why you think you would need to mod the chassis to make a motor fit.
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Yeti35 View Post
They fit fine with no mods necessary at all. Not sure why you think you would need to mod the chassis to make a motor fit.
The Tekin Reline motors do not fit unless you mod the inner hinge pin braces. The squared off end bell of the Tekin makes the effective length of the motor too long. On most motors the end plate is a smaller diameter then the can itself making it a non issue.
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Old 09-10-2009, 06:44 AM
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I use a Tekin 21.5 in my car and have not had to modify anything to make it work but i'm gearing it around 4.4 FDR for the TransAm class. The gearing selection is limited with the Tekin motors without doing a bit of grinding, it just so happens the combination of gearing I need works without grinding.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:09 AM
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I finally received my JRX-S R yesterday! It's a used car, but it's in good shape. This car is so strange compared to my Xray, lol. It'll definitely take a bit of getting used to. Now for the inevitable question: What Lipos fit into this car's crazy battery compartment?
My current Lipos don't fit well at all (stick pack style battery with wires coming out out of the end), the wires smash right into the motor or servo and the round shape lets them slide out into the belt. Luckily I've got a few old Ni-mh packs that will get me on the track for this weekend. I have been thinking about just picking up some Ni-mhs from Pro Match Racing, since the price is quite good, the fit is for sure and I won't need to slap any weight onto the car, but it might be tough to hit 1500g. Plus there is the maintenance factor and the performance degradation. Ni-mh packs are only about $35-45 each vs at least $70-120 for a lipo pack.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by billb60 View Post
Anyone have the size for the differential carrier retaining o-ring?
10mm x 1mm
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:46 AM
  #10485  
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Originally Posted by MonkeyFist View Post
The Tekin Reline motors do not fit unless you mod the inner hinge pin braces. The squared off end bell of the Tekin makes the effective length of the motor too long. On most motors the end plate is a smaller diameter then the can itself making it a non issue.
I did it with a Dremel in under 10 minutes fitting and test fitting. I took off maybe 2mm. I'll post a pic tonight.
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