Cirrc

iTrader: (4)

Hi all,
Just wanted to know if it still makes sense to buy the JRX-S type R.

I've always like the philosophy behind the design (centred battery esp), but have held back because of parts shortage where I live.

My question is, is the JRX-S type R still competitive with the latest TC offerings?

Also, will Losi come out with a new TC anytime soon? (Don't want to buy the type R then have it become 'obsolete' soon after I buy it)

lidebt2

iTrader: (21)

I've had a Type R for 2 years and love it. To my knowledge Losi is not coming out with a new version.

Parts are easy to get here in the US.

Still competitive, yes very much so.

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

The car is extremely competitive, parts are available at a MUCH lower price than some competing brands there is a growing aftermarket as well for the areas that do need a little tweaking, which there aren't many.

I have a couple I run on a weekly basis, my son is 10 and I switched him from a TC4 factory team w/ carbon upgrades to a Type-R and he was 3 laps faster and has moved up to 13.5 from a 21.5 and has yet to break a part on his car (he's 10!! and can barely see over the rail on the driver's stand hahah).

The tracks in my area the Type-R is constantly the top or near the top of the finishes in Vintage, RCGT and 13.5 Touring.

Hard to beat it in today's crowd of cards.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

There are many fast cars on the market but when you add up all the pro's and con's I would say it is hard to look past the HPI cyclone as the best AVERAGE TC on the market. That said I choose the Type R over it almost 6 months ago now and have not regretted it. The chassis performance exceeds that of the assumptions I made looking at the chassis and I am finding it to be easily the fastest TC I have ever had (asphalt/rubber/mod) and that is a decent list including offerings from Tamiya, Associated, Xray, and TOP. It has a proven record on foam so you will have no problem adapting it to your conditions.

Its biggest weakness is its diff if you run high power (like mod and 10.5 to a smaller degree) and lipo fit (which is almost non existent now thanks to Flying Fox RC). It also requires a small amount of creativity to install electronics to give you a good f/r balance as its layout was designed to suit nimh/brushed instead of lipo/brushless making it rear end heavy with batter and motor and servo installed.

It has the advantage of coming standard with some of the best ideas on the market like dual pivot front CVDs (LCD's) which are now being copied by other companies. It cost less than $10US for the front spool pulley to give you a slipper spool which is simply the best version of spool the is. And as said above parts are cheap. Almost all replacement parts cost less than $10US and have proven to be generally strong. Also Losi still support older generations of TC so parts will be around for years.

In short it is hard to look past.

metalracer2

iTrader: (20)

+1 to that

dfiantii

iTrader: (18)

+1

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

I have three and am currently building my fourth. I just wanted a new rubber car for IIC this year. My foam car never sees asphalt and I have a rubber car with a new chassis that has not seen asphalt either since the chassis change. I have one car dedicated at the moment soley to asphalt.

Cirrc

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for all the replies... they've been very helpful.

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

hey guys

I found a problem with those wheel hex parts, after few weeks axle pin dig in to the hex and it created too much pressure to axle bearings cause to bind

I tried shims already wont help.

is this another just wear and tear parts?

Yeti35

iTrader: (5)

Are you referring to the plastic kits ones? If so I could see that being an issue. I use the aluminum ones and have not experienced this at all.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

If you have the kit plastic one then replace them with alloy. It is a small cost but is nice not having your hex's fall off every time you remove the wheels.

If you have alloy then try not to "crush" the whole setup when you tighten up the clamp. Also note that if your bearings are shot they may turn ok under no load but lock up under load. This may well also be the problem.

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

Lemme rephrase...


not after "few weeks".... I had these hexes for about "a year" I do have all three thickness and sometime thinnest one scratch bubs by that screw from beggining. and other thicknesses start having "digging" problems

thanks for the input but like It showed on the title the problem is for those "Aluminium" one

I didnt tried stock plastic one yet.

it may spin good on the hex but if you disassemble a hub carrier and tighten a wheel with a nut as usual, you might have one or two "crushed" feeling one that bind on spin.

thats how I test my Ballbearings since I found digged alloy hex on my car.



I dont think I crushed those nuts too far, I tried with brand new BB and result are same for the "digged" hex.

try spin a wheel ike I said above, you might find surprise for yourself.\


anyway. any fix or solution for this.? or any one had same problem like mine?

mojoman

iTrader: (11)

If you are using the .195 hubs, do not use the axle shim. The shim only works with the .165 hubs. That could be your binding problem.

Good Luck,

lidebt2

iTrader: (21)

You need a new car John. Maybe if you weren't as fast as you are, you wouldn't have this problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!

J/K LOL

See ya.

SweepRacingUSA

iTrader: (6)

I never used shims on any of alloy hex, I think shims are for Plastic hexes

hey blue Long time no see, see you soon!