Originally Posted by Dragonfire

The easaiest thing to try would be more rear toe. I run 3.5 everywhere.

Another big factor is the diff (something I have been working on a lot recently). It needs to be smooth. If its gritty or too tight (excessive limited slip effect) you will struggle to use power out of corners. The biggest advance I have made with my diff is to remove the cage from the thrust bearing and use more thrust balls. You can fit 3 extra without the cage and it makes a noticable difference on the track.

Originally Posted by Jaz406

Is this on asphalt?

I found a 41 tooth front pulley will make the car twitchy, rear felt much more stable with equal pulley sizes.

I'm with Dragonfire on the rear diff --My rear diff was going out (loose) and it also caused the car to be loose in the rear and not predictable on power and in chicanes. More rear toe will give you more forward bite on accel. I run 3* to 3.5* in both my cars as a starting point.

I would run a level rear hinge pin, says you have a .030 washer in front.

Late in a run if the rear is loose but it was fine at the start of the run, it's most likely tires overheating try 27's/28's.

Those are what I have found on different instances.

Originally Posted by mtveten

Most likely the bulk of your problem is tire, start with some sorex32s and tire warmers. You could try 28s but they will probably overheat. On the chassis front start with both roll centers & diffs in the high position and go from there.

Originally Posted by YmeBP

What does the the high roll center do for the car? Does it make the car roll more easily or make it corner flatter?

Oh and it's not just for me ... my 10 year old son is now running a type-r and the little bugger keeps asking me "why are you changing this or that" and honestly i don't have good answers for him most of the time . It's just what i see the faster racers do so i do it too.

Originally Posted by Jaz406

Best way I can explain it is roll center affects the angle the force is applied to the tires contact patch. Too low (small angle) the tires will not grip and just "slide". I notice roll center changes more in 180* corners than anywhere else. Get the roll center right and you'll be amazed at the speed you can carry through them.

Sway bars are what help the car corner "flatter" and limit lateral movement without hurting front to rear weight transfer/traction.


Tires are the first choice of getting traction unless "spec".
Camber adjustments
Roll center adjustments,
Droop settings
Camber link position and camber gain shims on the outer hubs and steering blocks.

Originally Posted by YmeBP

I just rebuilt my diffs with a thrust bearing Schreffler and Fairtrace reccomended, they are smooth as a baby's butt now . I'm tempted to do the d-ring mod on the diff tube as well to loosen up the rear diff.

Originally Posted by da_John_wee

what is that D ring mod? slot round side of hub to fit another D shaped diff ring?

Originally Posted by da_John_wee

what is that D ring mod? slot round side of hub to fit another D shaped diff ring?

Originally Posted by a_main_attendee

Pretty much, but the d-ring replaces the brass and steel slipper "shims". ( i think, i've never done it)

Originally Posted by YmeBP

Perfect thank you!!

Originally Posted by adamge

Except for the part where he didn't mention that a higher RC, for all the extra traction you get on the outside wheel, you lose about the same amount on the inside wheel.

Originally Posted by Jaz406

adamge:
Your exactly right that's why the right amount of hinge pin height is important if you read into the statement, changing the roll center (force angle) would move the force to the inside or outside of the contact patch of the tire. I'm just trying to be helpful and here's a link that explains more.

http://http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/roll-center.html

Now if I could put these adjustments into my car at the right time I would be happy

Originally Posted by YmeBP

I may have asked this before but .... with this many pages in the thread I can't find it so i'm putting it in the title this time to make it easily searchable (hence the godzilla keyword ).

Situation:
Low temperature (track was 56*) medium bite surface relatively high speed

Major areas of my setup :
45/40 front rear shock oil, 17.5 springs all the way around
both diff's low (tried high/low front rear as well)
high roll center front (tried low low as well)
Low roll center in rear (1 washer under front roll center thingy)
tried both jr links and camber links in front
rear is 4 inside and farthest one from shock tower on the hub (B i think)
rear shocks are straight up and down
front shocks are second hole from up and down.
RP24 tires
6.5mm ride height, and 2mm droop all the way around.

I was really loose in the rear coming out of the corners, going in the corners i was good.

I also tried both over drive (smaller front pulley) and even.

What steps would I take to lock the rear of the car in more.