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02-11-2009, 09:01 PM

#9001

MaxRain

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Quote:

Originally Posted by StadiumChris

Zip file is Invalid

attached is the file again.. I also included my version of the setup sheet

Quote:

Originally Posted by StadiumChris

So has anyone come up with an ingenious way to mark their springs?

I mark my springs with a silver sharpie. I got mine at home depot. This works much better than adding weight or using the dremel to mark the spring.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jag88

I was rebuilding the diff and noticed that no matter how tight I set the diff it still slips. I figured out that the suspect part is the plastic diff drive (LOSA3318). With all that aluminum it still acts like a plactic diff because of that one part. It can't stand up to the clamping force exerted by the screw.
Does anybody know of an aluminum replacement part ?
Thanks.

I had the same problem and fixed this by grinding a 4-40 nut small enough to slide into the hub. My diff never comes loose after this mod.

Attached Files

Type R FDR.xls.zip (14.7 KB, 44 views)

setup sheet.xls.zip (22.5 KB, 34 views)

02-11-2009, 09:14 PM

#9002

Ron Goetter

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Quote:

Originally Posted by VenturaDC

ive been running this car for about a year now and have only broke one c-hub, and ive had my share of meetings with the boards, did u file down the axel that sticks past the wheel nut? helps alot

you have to cut your axles other wise the c-hubs will break very easy... also I run a parma bumper on my cars

02-11-2009, 09:33 PM

#9003

Yeti35

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jag88

Interesting, I was wondering about that. Why would they design the diff to slip a little when everyone else has 'd' rings on both halves ? I would think the mod foam guys would
hate that.
Thanks.

I actually think it was designed this way for Mod drivers. Todd made mention of it that it allows a little slip to save the diffs from frequent rebuilds. So yes, it was made that way on purpose.

02-12-2009, 06:38 AM

#9004

jrp

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Goetter

you have to cut your axles other wise the c-hubs will break very easy... also I run a parma bumper on my cars

My car has a wider hex on the front, and the axles do not protrude outside the nuts. Its crazy how easy they seem to break though!

02-12-2009, 06:41 AM

#9005

Xpress

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jrp

My car has a wider hex on the front, and the axles do not protrude outside the nuts. Its crazy how easy they seem to break though!

Are you using the EA-3 or graphite parts? I have yet to break an EA-3 caster block in over a year of running the car.

02-12-2009, 06:53 AM

#9006

L.Fairtrace

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Havent broke a C hub in a year or so probably. EA3 is way more durable than the graphite.

02-12-2009, 06:57 AM

#9007

jrp

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Xpress

Are you using the EA-3 or graphite parts? I have yet to break an EA-3 caster block in over a year of running the car.

I'll have to check. I am still getting up to speed on this car. I suspect they are not EA3. Thanks for the tip.

02-12-2009, 06:58 AM

#9008

MikeXray

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jrp

My car has a wider hex on the front, and the axles do not protrude outside the nuts. Its crazy how easy they seem to break though!

I honestly believe that some batches of parts are better than others. I have put a kydex bymper from a phi under a hard parma bumper on my car (a few people at our track now run this), it needs some trimming, but nothing crazy, and 2 holes for the posts. This helps a lot.

02-12-2009, 07:06 AM

#9009

maximebeauvais

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Quote:

Originally Posted by VenturaDC

ive been running this car for about a year now and have only broke one c-hub, and ive had my share of meetings with the boards, did u file down the axel that sticks past the wheel nut? helps alot

same here.

with my xray, I was breaking chub almost everynight. + the xray part are double the price of losi price !!!!!

do you have a good bumper?

02-12-2009, 07:17 AM

#9010

jrp

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Just checked and my C hubs are EA3.

The only bumper on the car is the Losi foam bumper with the small plastic bumper assembly that holds the body posts.

I am not a beginner, so its not a constant crashfest or anything.

02-12-2009, 07:33 AM

#9011

metalracer2

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I haven’t cut my axles yet and I haven’t broken a c hub in about a year.
But now that I say that I will break one the next time out

02-12-2009, 12:40 PM

#9012

MiniMike

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anyone know where i can get a conversion kit to turn a jrxs to a type r

02-12-2009, 12:46 PM

#9013

a_main_attendee

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MiniMike

anyone know where i can get a conversion kit to turn a jrxs to a type r

Both cars only really share spur gears, spur shafts, bearings, hubs and caster blocks... It really wouldn't be worth it. It would be FAR more economical to purchase either a new or used Type R.

02-12-2009, 12:50 PM

#9014

ricktheracer

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Quote:

Originally Posted by a_main_attendee

Both cars only really share spur gears, spur shafts, bearings, hubs and caster blocks... It really wouldn't be worth it. It would be FAR more economical to purchase either a new or used Type R.

Glad I read that. I was leaning towards upgrading.