B-Master

can anyone recomed a good setting on low grip aspult i am having MAJOUR problems with the rear end being very loose on power out of courners using rp30 any on power comming out of a courner i just end up facing the opposite way i have been trying to get rid of this issue now for a few weeks to no avail its starting to get extremly anoying. and moving to brushless with all the extra punch has made this issue worse


please help

JRXS_chris

Do you have to run RP30s?

jla8874

iTrader: (23)

Thanks Larry. I'm loving the photos! Its nice to see all of the different interpretations of electronics placements. I feel like a dumb arse though since I initiated the pics and haven't put mine up yet, I will Monday though. Speed Passion is not coming through for me at the moment on a shipment.

B-Master

No mate i dont have to run RP30s but after trying a few diffrent ones these actualy give the most consistant grip

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

I would run Sorex 32s and start with the Rippon setup.

jla8874

iTrader: (23)

A while back Schreff said that due to the design of the steering system in the Type R it only takes about 60% of your servos movement to achieve full throw. So does that mean that your endpoints need to be set at close to 60%?
Off topic, but somebody on a local forum posted this. Check it out, it will make you laugh!

schreff

iTrader: (5)

This truly depends on the radio you are using. I know on my 3pk, they were close to like ~55% with 100% dual rate. On my DX3R, they are 60% with 100% dual rate. It's pretty simple. Set dual rate to 100%, then go to your endpoint screen, turn the wheel all the way each direction and set the end point so the steering block doesn't press into the caster block. You'll see what I mean when you try it.

jla8874

iTrader: (23)

I understand how to set it, M11 by the way. But mines at 82-83% and it looks good to me. But I think thats why you said people were burning up servos was because they had their endpoints too high? I just didn't want to toast a new $100 one. Thanks though.

Xpress

iTrader: (3)

What's the deal with the re-release of the LiPO tray? Everytime I look on Horizon's site the date is pushed back.

RedRocketRacing

iTrader: (8)

Is it only one direction? That would probably tweak, but what are your other setting? Shocks, roll centers, camber, toe, etc.

RedRocket

RedRocketRacing

iTrader: (8)

Has anybody played with they throttle curve with the BL systems? It seems that there are alot of people complaining about on power grip off the corner, could it possibly a problem of too much power off the corner and spinning the tires and making the car spin out? I have not spent too much time wiht BL yet but, did notice when I did that the car jumped off the corners. Just a thought.

RedRocket

Uncle Cliffy

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys. I'm asking a question for a friend of mine who just got a type-r. He is currently running a Orion 3600 2s Lipo in his and the layshaft pulleys are rubbing the battery on either side. I don't have a picture, but they're actually cutting a good part of the hard case of the battery off...:

He's using the 6-cell tray since the Orion battery has humps that fit in the cell dimples and is supposed to prevent movement. He tried the lipo tray and the problem was worse...

I tried to search this thread on this, but no dice. Any help?

MaxRain

iTrader: (2)

Seeing RedRockets post about power curve, I decided to test this out on my car with my M8. I am running a novak 13.5 with the xbr and noticed that by changing the throttle speed, while adjusting the exponential I started to notice improvements in the reduction of the drifting while on power when exiting corners. Not having a brushed motor ever in the car, I don't know the difference. Brushless does have lots of torque and while holding the car horizontally in my hand, then squeeze on the throttle, the weight really transfers from front to rear. This is why I asked the question of re-positioning the esc and weight on the other end of the car to correct the problem.

So testing was done in my basement on a painted concrete floor, in conjuction with jaco yellow tires. I took into consideration on an earlier post by John tag's. The setup on my car is very close to the one he posted in March, with the exception of the #30 weighted shock fluid, where I am using 50 and a different spring. Only difference is the diff positioning and turn buckle lengths.. I am thinking that this plays a bigger role than I think. (roll centre)

In further testing, I discovered that my diffs were set a little too tight so I decreased the tension and again noticed improvements on hair pin turns and on exit of that turn on power.

I have come to the conclusion that making the slightest adjustments, I can get to where I want the car to be. But this takes time and patience, which I have both. I am relatively new to touring car as I haven't owned one since I bought the type r in September of 07. Since joining my club, I have found the hobby to be rewarding and addicting, I love it.

Since getting the car, I have learned lots about it, but without help from people in this forum I don't think I would be where I am today with the setup. (many thanks for that)

Anyways, I would also like to mention that I have also set my steering endpoints to 60% as I also don't want to fry my servo. When I here it buzzing too much, specially at full throttle right or left, that it my que to remove some steering. A question for shreff and larry, when you describe the steering situation, if your end point is too far you don't want the servo arm/ball stub to rub against the top plate.. right? or by the c-hub? Would you have to look for how much the LCD is bending.. Would it bind up, or stop moving. If you could describe this a little futher, it would be great.


Sorry for the long post guys, trying to fit lots of stuff in it..
Gordon

jla8874

iTrader: (23)

Great post Gordon! I agree with you 100% about this thread, as I would be completely lost without it. I am the only Type R driver at my track, so I am pretty much on my own trying to get this car dialed. The cars at my track are half Xray and half Schumacher. And while they are generally nice guys who drive them, sure seems like I get the answer, "I dont know how it works on the Losi?" to a lot of my questions. Thats why even the most mundane question I would rather just ask here and look silly rather than just keep getting that other answer.

And to your point about the smallest of changes affects the car. I know you're right, but my cars not anywhere close to dialed so I have been making major changes first until I can find what I think can be a starting point to then start making minor changes. When I look at the fastest guys at my track, while I know that their driving skills are far superior to mine, I also know that one of the reasons they are going so fast is because their car is glued to the track. That goes back to my point about all of the Schuie/Xray drivers swapping setups. I'm not complaining though because I knew I was going to be the odd man out with the Type R.

John Tag

iTrader: (42)

Here is set up I been using most recently. Low med bite. Also ran on High Bite and won also. So this set up is easy to drive. May not be fast lap car all the time. But will make car a great car to be in the show in battle for top spot.

Front
40 wt oil 17 springs stock pistons
4 caster blocks
Med wheel base
1 1/2 camber
.5 mm toe out
.40 sway bar
5 mm ride height
2 1/2 mm droop over RH
top shocks #2 hole
Camber link set up #1 on tower and tall ball stud on caster block
spool high
high roll centers
#1 on spindle rod end
#2 on steering rack

Rear
30 weight oil 15 lb springs stock pistons
Med wheel base
No sway bar
High roll center
#2 pivot block
stock hubs o*
rear link 5A w/ tall ball stud
shocks tower #2 outside arm
1 1/2 camber
ride height 5 1/2
droop 3mm over RH
diff low


Motor 13.5 gear 104x45

When I measure droop.. I set car to rh on board. Hold wheel carfully while lifting that corner of chassie to see when car is in full droop thats the droop # I use. Maybe Jason can explain better as I got this from him. But thats best was as car already has droop in sag sitting at ride heifgt. So if chassie is 5 MM RH I need chassie to be at 8mm while in full drop while measuring to get 3 mm.

Hope this helps some...