Team Losi JRXS Type-R
#6421
Tech Initiate

Hi Fellow R owners
I have just bought part no.LOSA3358 one way kit, the whole assembly went together really well until it came to the dogbones and the RCD axles in the kit you are supplied with 2 solid pins and 2 split roll pins,whilst trying to assemble the dogbones relative to the axle i noticed the both sets of pins are too short as anyone else came across this problem? if so how did you get round it? the only way i can see in rectifying this is to buy longer pins.
How do you find the one way compared to do diff? is more difficult to drive? do you have to have a different set up compared to the diff?
I have just bought part no.LOSA3358 one way kit, the whole assembly went together really well until it came to the dogbones and the RCD axles in the kit you are supplied with 2 solid pins and 2 split roll pins,whilst trying to assemble the dogbones relative to the axle i noticed the both sets of pins are too short as anyone else came across this problem? if so how did you get round it? the only way i can see in rectifying this is to buy longer pins.
How do you find the one way compared to do diff? is more difficult to drive? do you have to have a different set up compared to the diff?
#6422

Mike Haynes: I tired your setup that you posted before and the car was flat dialed. What's your procedure for traction compound? Are you cleaning your tires after every run? With what? How long are you putting the traction compound on there and how long before the race are you removing it?
Also, are you gluing the outside bead on the fronts at all? Does your car lift or have a tendency to want to traction roll if you drive it too hard?
thanks in advance,
-Benson Rice-
Also, are you gluing the outside bead on the fronts at all? Does your car lift or have a tendency to want to traction roll if you drive it too hard?
thanks in advance,
-Benson Rice-
I was using motorspray to wipe the junk off, gooping when i charged my pack so it soaked in good, i had them dry before going to tech...seemed to come in faster, otherwise major push for a lap or 2. No glue, it was very mellow.
Last edited by Mike Haynes; 02-04-2008 at 04:35 PM.
#6423

Hi Fellow R owners
I have just bought part no.LOSA3358 one way kit, the whole assembly went together really well until it came to the dogbones and the RCD axles in the kit you are supplied with 2 solid pins and 2 split roll pins,whilst trying to assemble the dogbones relative to the axle i noticed the both sets of pins are too short as anyone else came across this problem? if so how did you get round it? the only way i can see in rectifying this is to buy longer pins.
How do you find the one way compared to do diff? is more difficult to drive? do you have to have a different set up compared to the diff?
I have just bought part no.LOSA3358 one way kit, the whole assembly went together really well until it came to the dogbones and the RCD axles in the kit you are supplied with 2 solid pins and 2 split roll pins,whilst trying to assemble the dogbones relative to the axle i noticed the both sets of pins are too short as anyone else came across this problem? if so how did you get round it? the only way i can see in rectifying this is to buy longer pins.
How do you find the one way compared to do diff? is more difficult to drive? do you have to have a different set up compared to the diff?
#6424

Hey fellas!
For the Type R faithful... my Birds' setup is attached. It's not a whole lot different than what Larry and I ran in Vegas.
Ok, back to bed.
For the Type R faithful... my Birds' setup is attached. It's not a whole lot different than what Larry and I ran in Vegas.
Ok, back to bed.

Last edited by schreff; 02-14-2008 at 11:49 AM. Reason: Made a mistake on the setup sheet
#6426
Tech Initiate

You need to use lcd stuff for the front axles, rcd will not fit with the short dogbones. You will need to use a pair of lcd stub axles and a lcd rebuild kit in addition to what came in the oneway bag to put together a complete set of axles...or just swap out the dogbone side of what is currently in the car.



Rcracingkid how did you find using the oneway? did you have to change your set up from using a diff?
#6427
Tech Initiate

You need to use lcd stuff for the front axles, rcd will not fit with the short dogbones. You will need to use a pair of lcd stub axles and a lcd rebuild kit in addition to what came in the oneway bag to put together a complete set of axles...or just swap out the dogbone side of what is currently in the car.



Rcracingkid how did you find using the oneway? did you have to change your set up from using a diff?
#6428
Tech Initiate

You need to use lcd stuff for the front axles, rcd will not fit with the short dogbones. You will need to use a pair of lcd stub axles and a lcd rebuild kit in addition to what came in the oneway bag to put together a complete set of axles...or just swap out the dogbone side of what is currently in the car.



Rcracingkid how did you find using the oneway? did you have to change your set up from using a diff?
#6431

mike already posted his setup...it is up a few posts...
#6432
#6433
#6434

Well, my Type R's have been great so far...so far for the tight and technical 140X70ft outdoor asphalt track its been very smooth and easy to drive using T. Hodge's Reedy 2007 race set up...but it needs to be much more aggressive. I need it to rotate quickly and turn left to right much faster- it needs to be more reactive...tried some of Schreffs set up for the Jackson race, but I still dont get the reaction I'm looking for...I have tried different shock oils and spring combinations, roll centers, camber link, sway bars, JR-Link and standard, but it just doesnt seem to get them car to become so agressive that you actually need to calm it down...that's what i'm looking for...I'd like for it to be reactive anough that I'll need to actually tone it down a bit...Any suggestions?
Currently using:
Ride height: 5mm FR, 5.5R
High ROll centers all around- have tried High front, and low rear also
Shocks- 45W 15lb front, 40wt 12lb Rear with 2 o-rings
1.5 camber all around
4 deg caster
2 deg rear toe in
diff position: front high, rear low
Front Spool
Camber link: front-#3, with standard link, and rear: 5A
swaybars: Front .40, rear .30
Tires- Jaco Rubberz (Greens:Med firm)
Mazda Speed 6 body
Currently using:
Ride height: 5mm FR, 5.5R
High ROll centers all around- have tried High front, and low rear also
Shocks- 45W 15lb front, 40wt 12lb Rear with 2 o-rings
1.5 camber all around
4 deg caster
2 deg rear toe in
diff position: front high, rear low
Front Spool
Camber link: front-#3, with standard link, and rear: 5A
swaybars: Front .40, rear .30
Tires- Jaco Rubberz (Greens:Med firm)
Mazda Speed 6 body
#6435



My Chassis Lists: I end up spending to much on it to get it to be a racer!
EP PRO MATCHED 4600
EPIC PRO 27T
PERFEX KA-15 ESC
HPI SX-1 SERVO
what do you think of this below?

I almost done with body, it looks sexy and cool after I painted it. Is Police HERE??? I looking around..
I need: FUTUBA Receiver!
I can't wait to throw this sweet car on the pavement track.