52LikesTeam Losi JRXS Type-R
09-09-2007, 01:24 PM
#5461
As Larry said, I've put about 3 one-ways together now.
I've only had 1 of the 3 have issues with one of the bearings. One of the needles fell out and it's gone. The one-way is in a car right now and it seems to work just fine. That's not to say an issue won't occur though. It's in Tags car and we ran it like 10 packs over this past weekend with no issues.
I've only had 1 of the 3 have issues with one of the bearings. One of the needles fell out and it's gone. The one-way is in a car right now and it seems to work just fine. That's not to say an issue won't occur though. It's in Tags car and we ran it like 10 packs over this past weekend with no issues.
I don't suppose there's any hope of replacing the one-way bearings? They seem to be in there pretty well.
09-09-2007, 01:33 PM
#5462
Looking over the instructions again, it looks like maybe I did something wrong with the o-rings. They go inside the housing? Also, is there a trick to getting the pins to seat inside the one-way bearing when assembling the whole thing?
I don't suppose there's any hope of replacing the one-way bearings? They seem to be in there pretty well.
I don't suppose there's any hope of replacing the one-way bearings? They seem to be in there pretty well.
And as far as the o-rings, yes they go in the housing. That was one of the things Tags didn't put in when he first built his. He forget the o-ring and the one-way would fall apart in the car while running. That o-ring holds in the washer that holds the little axle piece that rides on the bearing. If you forget that o-ring, the whole assembly can float and eventually fall apart.
Basically, you put the small axle piece in, then the washer, then the outdrive bearing, and then the o-ring. The last part is bolting the outdrive to the small axle piece and you should be good to go.
Hope that helps.
09-09-2007, 01:51 PM
#5463
And as far as the o-rings, yes they go in the housing. That was one of the things Tags didn't put in when he first built his. He forget the o-ring and the one-way would fall apart in the car while running. That o-ring holds in the washer that holds the little axle piece that rides on the bearing. If you forget that o-ring, the whole assembly can float and eventually fall apart.
Basically, you put the small axle piece in, then the washer, then the outdrive bearing, and then the o-ring. The last part is bolting the outdrive to the small axle piece and you should be good to go.
Basically, you put the small axle piece in, then the washer, then the outdrive bearing, and then the o-ring. The last part is bolting the outdrive to the small axle piece and you should be good to go.
The bearings look forced in there. I imagine they could be drilled out, but I'm not sure if installing a new bearing is feasible. I think I can read the number on the existing one, maybe I can find a part number and some dimensions, and looking into finding replacements. Maybe even better bearings, if they exist.
09-09-2007, 02:06 PM
#5464
Okay, I get it now. I just practiced with the good half of my existing one-way and got it right. The hub bearing goes way down in there. Schreff, do you have any trick for getting it to slide down into the hub easily? Heating the one-way tube up on that end first seemed to help, but I don't want to damage the plastic parts of the one-way bearing.
09-09-2007, 02:16 PM
#5465
Okay, I get it now. I just practiced with the good half of my existing one-way and got it right. The hub bearing goes way down in there. Schreff, do you have any trick for getting it to slide down into the hub easily? Heating the one-way tube up on that end first seemed to help, but I don't want to damage the plastic parts of the one-way bearing.
09-09-2007, 05:38 PM
#5466
I'm building a new kit, and I opened a package of "new" front arms to replace the ones that came with the kit. I noticed it came with new locating pins for droop, they're silver instead of black. Any chance they're less brittle? I've cracked a few in the front adjusting droop, especially working the wrench around the outdrives for the one-way. The new rear arms still had the black screws.
09-09-2007, 06:08 PM
#5467
Cool, thanks for the help. I'll be sure to get it right with the next one.
I'm building a new kit, and I opened a package of "new" front arms to replace the ones that came with the kit. I noticed it came with new locating pins for droop, they're silver instead of black. Any chance they're less brittle? I've cracked a few in the front adjusting droop, especially working the wrench around the outdrives for the one-way. The new rear arms still had the black screws.
I'm building a new kit, and I opened a package of "new" front arms to replace the ones that came with the kit. I noticed it came with new locating pins for droop, they're silver instead of black. Any chance they're less brittle? I've cracked a few in the front adjusting droop, especially working the wrench around the outdrives for the one-way. The new rear arms still had the black screws.
09-09-2007, 06:15 PM
#5468
Hahah, maybe so! I don't know WTF I'm doing wrong, but I spent 5 minutes getting the last one out with a pair of pliers. It seems like an odd angle to get to the front screws with the one-way in. It's probably my cheap Integy wrenches. Every time I think I'm ready to get something nicer (XRay) they're out of stock.
09-09-2007, 06:17 PM
#5469
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
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Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
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Anyone looking for a Type R I have a brand new one built for sale.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=180502
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=180502
09-09-2007, 06:58 PM
#5470
Got a relatively full day of carpet practice today at our local spot, Bending Corners in Orange, CA. I was testing setups for Vegas and here's where I will be starting...
Stock Foam TC
indoor/temporary Ozite track/medium bite/tight/90' straight
Front
0 toes
4mm ride height
-2 camber
0 kick/dive
6 caster
1mm over ride droop
0 pivot
low roll center
arms middle
#1 tower
#2 steering rack
#1 spindle
Standard Camber link
short + 0.030 ball stuf
no swaybar
front diff, 42 T
low diff
LCD's
0.225 Losi hex
60/56 piston
25 lb spring
Losi black bladder/nothing above
2 0.030 washers under tall ball stud/steering rack
1 0.030 washer under tall ball stud/spindle
Rear
3 toe
4.5 mm ride
1.5 over ride/droop
-2.5 camber
0 pro/anti
0 hub/standard
2 rear pivot
low roll center
arm forward
#2 tower/inside on arm
7-A camber link/tall ball stud w/ 2 0.030 washers
no swaybar
diff low
RCD's standard 0.165 Losi hex
50/56
20 lb spring
Losi black bladder/nothing above
Protoform Pontiac G6 body, standard wing
Trinity Co27 motor/4499 brushes/purple pos/neg springs
126 PRS spur
36 PRS pinion
Jaco 26mm 2-stage foam, double pink front and rear
57.5 mm, Jack the Gripper sauce
2/3 front, full rear
I started with setup information provided by Andrew Gray, who developed a similar setup at the Vegas Warm Up event at Competition Hobbies last month. I made a few changes on my own to free up the rear of the car and by the end of the day, this setup was right on the edge of being too twitchy on a medium bite track. I think having a 'free' car, one that rotates quickly without scrubbing corner speed, is essential for stock foam sedan. I also tried the DNA and Parma Alfa bodies, but they provided just too much downforce. My fastest lap times of the day were done with the G6 body, which provides less intial turn-in, but more/faster corner rotation. I also felt like it was faster down the straight. I am sure many of you will scoff at my body of choice and who knows if it will work well at Vegas, but I will stick with what I learned today to start....
Good luck.
Stock Foam TC
indoor/temporary Ozite track/medium bite/tight/90' straight
Front
0 toes
4mm ride height
-2 camber
0 kick/dive
6 caster
1mm over ride droop
0 pivot
low roll center
arms middle
#1 tower
#2 steering rack
#1 spindle
Standard Camber link
short + 0.030 ball stuf
no swaybar
front diff, 42 T
low diff
LCD's
0.225 Losi hex
60/56 piston
25 lb spring
Losi black bladder/nothing above
2 0.030 washers under tall ball stud/steering rack
1 0.030 washer under tall ball stud/spindle
Rear
3 toe
4.5 mm ride
1.5 over ride/droop
-2.5 camber
0 pro/anti
0 hub/standard
2 rear pivot
low roll center
arm forward
#2 tower/inside on arm
7-A camber link/tall ball stud w/ 2 0.030 washers
no swaybar
diff low
RCD's standard 0.165 Losi hex
50/56
20 lb spring
Losi black bladder/nothing above
Protoform Pontiac G6 body, standard wing
Trinity Co27 motor/4499 brushes/purple pos/neg springs
126 PRS spur
36 PRS pinion
Jaco 26mm 2-stage foam, double pink front and rear
57.5 mm, Jack the Gripper sauce
2/3 front, full rear
I started with setup information provided by Andrew Gray, who developed a similar setup at the Vegas Warm Up event at Competition Hobbies last month. I made a few changes on my own to free up the rear of the car and by the end of the day, this setup was right on the edge of being too twitchy on a medium bite track. I think having a 'free' car, one that rotates quickly without scrubbing corner speed, is essential for stock foam sedan. I also tried the DNA and Parma Alfa bodies, but they provided just too much downforce. My fastest lap times of the day were done with the G6 body, which provides less intial turn-in, but more/faster corner rotation. I also felt like it was faster down the straight. I am sure many of you will scoff at my body of choice and who knows if it will work well at Vegas, but I will stick with what I learned today to start....
Good luck.
09-09-2007, 07:45 PM
#5471
i just got my type-r car tonight...i havent even started the build yet.
before doing so i was curious if any of you guys have been running rubber tires on carpet?
and which set-up should i try.
also i was reading in the book about adjusting the diffs?
i found that a little weird the way they were doing it.....hmmm....
anyways any help i would greatly appreciate it...
thx,
matt
before doing so i was curious if any of you guys have been running rubber tires on carpet?
and which set-up should i try.
also i was reading in the book about adjusting the diffs?
i found that a little weird the way they were doing it.....hmmm....
anyways any help i would greatly appreciate it...
thx,
matt
09-09-2007, 09:49 PM
#5473
i just got my type-r car tonight...i havent even started the build yet.
before doing so i was curious if any of you guys have been running rubber tires on carpet?
and which set-up should i try.
also i was reading in the book about adjusting the diffs?
i found that a little weird the way they were doing it.....hmmm....
before doing so i was curious if any of you guys have been running rubber tires on carpet?
and which set-up should i try.
also i was reading in the book about adjusting the diffs?
i found that a little weird the way they were doing it.....hmmm....
As for the diffs, Todd made an interesting post a while back about how the diffs are different, which may explain the odd adjustment. You can read it here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=3400
09-10-2007, 08:42 AM
#5474
Tech Adept
Using the LOSA3018 Thrust Assembly-His a key note on building your diffs on your JRXS. On the thrust assembly you will want to measure the outer diameter of the thrust assembly. You will notice that one of the thrust washers is larger in diameter. You will want to place this washer onto the diff screw first. Then put the caged ball assembly on the diff screw then slightly more lube around the caged bearing. Apply the next thrust washer (smaller diameter) next. Now you will want to use your 5 concaved washers in the opposite direction on the diff screw. You will want them in this orientation
[--)))))--
instead of
[--(((((--
Assemble the diff accordingly and you will notice a smoother diff.
[--)))))--
instead of
[--(((((--
Assemble the diff accordingly and you will notice a smoother diff.
Help me
09-10-2007, 12:30 PM
#5475
i was told by some other peeps that the build was really easy....but im am usually the one having trouble with builds most of the time....i will just make sure that i take my time with it...and questions i will get on here and ask...i have met both fairtrace and schref and horsham and they both were cool...
thx guys,
matt
thx guys,
matt