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Titanium screws?

Titanium screws?

Old 08-13-2006, 09:30 PM
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Default Titanium screws?

hey all,
first of where can i buy them and is it better to buy a kit? i have an mi2 that needs to go on a diet so out with all the steel and in with titanium
any other generic weight loss suggestion??
im re wireing to loose weight and also looking at new drive shafts (plastic not sure if there are any lighter ones but they arnt very strong so...)
is it possible to loose about 50 grams with out cuting and machineing part down?? cheers all
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Old 08-13-2006, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by aus jd 2703
hey all,
first of where can i buy them and is it better to buy a kit? i have an mi2 that needs to go on a diet so out with all the steel and in with titanium
any other generic weight loss suggestion??
im re wireing to loose weight and also looking at new drive shafts (plastic not sure if there are any lighter ones but they arnt very strong so...)
is it possible to loose about 50 grams with out cuting and machineing part down?? cheers all
You can try aluminium screws on low stress areas...
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Old 08-14-2006, 04:40 AM
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You can contact Schumacher USA, or if your LHS- if it has an account with them. Schumacher has exactly what you are looking for.....

Tel: +1 (0) 813 8899691
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Old 08-14-2006, 07:31 AM
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Try www.speedtechrc.com He has whole Ti sets. The problem with aluminum is if its used on the bottom of the chassis the heads get torn up, and wont let you get a allen wrench in. In high stress areas they simply break leaving you to try drilling them out. Stainless weight the same as sock steel, so no improvement there. Ti really is the best solution to loosing weight without sacrificing strength.
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:31 PM
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any other weight loss ideas??
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:40 PM
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get a dremel grind every part until theres not much less BAM your car is lightweight
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by hobbipro
Stainless weight the same as sock steel, so no improvement there.



Actually, SS is generally heavier than regular 'ol carbon steel, dependant upon alloy, of course.

Another problem to watch for is "Bi-metallic welding". Two dissimilar metals can fuse when under stress, and after a period of time. Anti-seize should be used between aluminum and titanium, as these are two metals prone to fusing.
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by aus jd 2703
any other weight loss ideas??

Shorter wires,use lighter rims,use a small ESC like the Novak GTX for example,use a Futaba 9550 like servo,use the Ko helios' receiver 302f.....Or use smaller capacity cells as newer high capacity cells are heavier.

Anyway,the legal weight for racing is 1.5 KG.... Make sure your's won't be under weight after the diet program...
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Old 08-15-2006, 12:21 AM
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thanks ben.c id do the electronics up grade but i only just bought a gt7 (actually im borrowing it right now till i have the cash to pay) so new servo and esc although smart to much $$$
am i asking for an im possible cure ie if ur heavy there is only so much weight u can loose??
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Old 08-15-2006, 04:51 AM
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Josh,

How much does the car actually weigh?

I remember it only being around 20 grams over the minimum limit, which is fine for racing.

An underweight car can be a real pain in the butt - besides from finding room for all the weights, you have to keep checking the overall weight every time you run a different set of wheels, motor etc to make sure it's still legal.

You aren't going to save too much weight with the screws - getting rid of the battery strap is the easiest way to drop weight, but using tape can be annoying. The Mi2 battery strap is one of the better designs out there too.

Having looked over your car a few weeks ago I'd say start with repalcing all the worn steering components and set the steering bellcranks up straight before worrying about a few grams of weight.
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