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Old 01-25-2003, 11:37 AM   #1
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how fast would the rc12l3 go with a 10t motor a 15t and a stock motor on 6 cells?does it take a while to get up to speed? do u need any hop ups for the car if your not a racer?
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Old 01-25-2003, 06:27 PM   #2
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Tough question, go the Team Associated website and ask them.
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Old 01-25-2003, 06:39 PM   #3
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Alot of things have to be taken into account.... here are a few

-Gearing
-tire height
-body aerodynamics
-weight of electronics


If you really want to go as fast as possible then I would suggest a much cheaper car like the Bolink Sport 2000, you could use 2 stick packs....

But geared properly in a racing situation I would say 25-30 stock, 27-32 15T, and 30-35 10T and this would be at the very end of the straight away right before you left off the throttle........
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Old 01-25-2003, 08:18 PM   #4
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well i'm racing my friend with a 1/8th scale buggy and i want to win. i heard a bolink e-drag car can go 60 with a 7t so why shouldn't a smaller car go at least 45mph with a 9 or 10turn motor?
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Old 01-25-2003, 08:34 PM   #5
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4 mi,the question is not how fast,it is rather how well u can handle a car...
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Old 01-25-2003, 09:30 PM   #6
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yep how u can have a 5t motor stuck on 10 cells but can u handle it LONG enuff to bring it to max speed ... LOL !
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Old 01-25-2003, 10:29 PM   #7
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ic, what do most people run when just in the front street?
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Old 01-25-2003, 10:45 PM   #8
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i think a gd stock motor would b gd enough.
u get more run time than a fast mod motor,...and also when u crash,the damage is lower also!!!
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Old 01-26-2003, 08:47 PM   #9
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lol ever seen a TL01 on 9 turn motor with speed tuned gears FDR 4.xx

well yep it was scary fast but it was even scarier to control
...... trust me .... been tru it .....

i managed to get to top speed (phew- after fighting with the stearing wheel like a bullriding [email protected]!)... but never managed to slow it down ......till it hit the stinking barier to the side because of reasons i still cannot figure out ... LOL ( no idea why it just suddenly went sideways( maybe cause of small road bumps- but really cannot tell it was just too fast)



ended up with 2 smashed wheels ( yes SMASHED and tires torn ) and some damage i cant even see or know ...
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Old 01-26-2003, 10:41 PM   #10
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I've seen how uncontrollable a TL01 can be with a 15 turn.... Ican only imagine a 9T....LOL
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Old 01-27-2003, 12:33 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by 70mph pan car
ic, what do most people run when just in the front street?
Most people run stock motors, but my feeling is that there are a lot of things done to stock motors that make them inefficient. Tricks to get more RPM and power out of the motor at the expense of efficiency in order to stay within the rules. The result is more heat and more comm wear.

I think you're much better off getting a mild mod, like a 19x1 (not a 19T spec, for the same reasons as a stock motor)

Stand up brushes in particular will be less likely to arc and cause comm damage.
Adjustable timing will allow you to retard timing to the point that you can virtually eliminate arcing again, easing up on comm wear.

Efficiency will be up, so heat will be down
Ball bearings will add to efficiency as well.
More efficiency is more speed and/or runtime, with less concern for heat.

Stock motors are expensive for machine wounds, and even more expensive to maintain.

A hand wound will be more in initial outlay, but their efficiency will be up, especially if someone can wind it using a slightly larger gauge wire because of the neater windings. Hard to say if the extra money would be worth it?

Whatever you decide, I would go for brushes that wear well, I know the Reedy 729 for standup and 766 for laydown (same compound, just one is laydown, and one is standup) are supposed to be good for that, there are probably others. (Anyone know?)

I see comm wear and heat as the enemy for street bashing, as you don't have a lathe or get somewhere you can have it cut all that often. And heat is bad for obvious reasons.

Stock motors are so bad for heat, that I don't see much use in those kinds of motors for street bashing, they wouldn't last, and a well setup cheaper machine wound mod like a Peak Jaguar or Orion Rush would be both faster and last longer.

People think mod and immediately think comm cuts every run. True if you race competitively, but the flexibility of the mod motor also allows you to back off on the ultimate speed and optimize for efficiency and low maintenance, especially with higher turn mods like a 19 or so. Still faster than a stock with better efficiency and longevity.

Last edited by Concillian; 01-27-2003 at 01:04 AM.
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