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Old 01-10-2007, 02:20 PM   #556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BP SHADOW
Great discussion going on here! I have recently joined the ranks of the Lipo runners. I ran my first race night last Friday with the 3200 in my 103GT. I just bought the Much More Cell Master to charge the Lipos,
This is not a recommended charger for our Li-Po's as it will not properly charge the cells leading to poor perfomance and possibly damage as it was not designed to be used with our batteries or batteries of this capacity.
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Old 01-10-2007, 05:04 PM   #557
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Originally Posted by Turbo Joe
Just out of curiosity...was your car right at "legal" with the NiMh battery?
...
Yes the car had the same weight with both it was 51 ounces and some change .
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Old 01-10-2007, 10:40 PM   #558
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Originally Posted by MrBlack
No, it is not the same as the Multiplex both are built by different suppliers.
whats the difference they look the same when you look at the specs
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Old 01-11-2007, 09:49 AM   #559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom235
whats the difference they look the same when you look at the specs
Same thing I thought, my HS had both, side-by-side they're the same button placement, specs, only diff was the cover and that the batt contacts are on the front of the MP and the side of the Avionics.. that was the shops' impression too.

The multiplex did seem a bit heavier, though that could simply be the casing, more of a brushed aluminum look and sharp edges.

So, with the LN5014 not being the same as the avionics, is it still good for the 3200 Lipos?
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Old 01-11-2007, 10:47 AM   #560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo Joe
Just out of curiosity...was your car right at "legal" with the NiMh battery?

I mean, if you had to add weight for the Lipo...did you make the car weight the same...or just get to where the LiPo was at legal weight? It seems to me that plenty of cars are over legal weight with a NiMh battery...
It got to be lighter
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Old 01-12-2007, 02:42 PM   #561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom235
whats the difference they look the same when you look at the specs
The actual origin of manufacturing is the difference, example ours is made in Korea and I believe the Multiplex may be made in China.

I do know that the supplier that makes the Multiplex is different as they also wanted do manufacture ours.

After testing both we feel our supplier is the better of the two this is why we went with them.
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Old 01-12-2007, 03:05 PM   #562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBlack
The actual origin of manufacturing is the difference, example ours is made in Korea and I believe the Multiplex may be made in China.

I do know that the supplier that makes the Multiplex is different as they also wanted do manufacture ours.

After testing both we feel our supplier is the better of the two this is why we went with them.
Is there some similarity in the software used or something? I've seen several chargers from different manufacturers that are of similar shape and size, and have what appears to be the exact same software.
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Old 01-13-2007, 02:09 AM   #563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBlack
The actual origin of manufacturing is the difference, example ours is made in Korea and I believe the Multiplex may be made in China.

I do know that the supplier that makes the Multiplex is different as they also wanted do manufacture ours.

After testing both we feel our supplier is the better of the two this is why we went with them.

At the moment I am only running Kyosho Mini-Z with 4 ~900mAh NiMh Cells, and I am using a MuchMore Cell Master as a charger. I want to run a FT TC3 with brushless and LiPo on a big outdoor track in summer, and know that my MuchMore is not suited for charging good LiPos. So now I am searching for a charger which is a good choice for my Mini-Z batteries and the 3200mAh as well as 4800mAh Orion/Peak Lipos (I love the security of the case). I think at the moment the Advanced Flight Charger is a very good option, but please answer me 2 questions:
-current in NiMh mode is adjustable from 0,1-10A. How big are the increments inbetween? 0,1A?
-there are some new LiPos out there with 5000mAh. So the batteries will keep improving, will the 5A max. charge current in LiPo mode be enough in the future?

To sum it all up: do you think the Advanced Flight Charger is a very good option for me, or should I consider the Orion Advantage charger as a better choice?

Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2007, 11:07 AM   #564
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TAMIYA posted the 2007 rules. Check em out dudes.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/tcs_races/rules.php

Good news for the 03GT, ORION is the only Lipo legal for TCS and with out a weight penalty. The future is now!

MPH
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Old 01-13-2007, 03:28 PM   #565
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just ordered 4 of them.. and that online hobby store that i bought it is pretty awsome. fast shipping. .. it only take 2 days...
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:59 AM   #566
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Default It's too fat

In case any one else thinks to try fitting one of these batteries on a tamiya 415 MSX stick pack chassis ..
Warning: It won't fit with the battery guides on because it's more square than a stick pack on the bottom so it sits too high. Also it won't fit with the battery holder on because the battery is too long.

It 'sort of' fits on the stock msx - the rear bulkhead will scrape the pack though. The tight fit might cause trouble in a crash.

Using the Stick pack bulkhead, post and upper deck with the kit chassis seems like the best fit. You will still need tape to hold the battery in though.

The dimensions of the Orion pack are a bit weird really - I don't have newer stick packs to compare it to, but it's longer than a peak 2400 nicd pack by 5mm and longer than 3600 side by side pack by at least 2mm.

The end profile is similar to the end cap of a stick pack, but its rounder on the top than the bottom - so if your car is built to hold a stick pack snugly in the middle the 3200 will not fit.
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Old 01-15-2007, 12:11 PM   #567
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thanks mrblack for the info
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Old 01-16-2007, 05:04 AM   #568
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Default Problem with for GTB 3.5R and 3200 packs

Just want to share my experience with you lot and see if anyone has had the same problem.

I took my new Cyclone Hara Ed out for a test drive at our local track tonight. The car had a GTB 3.5R fitted with the Novak smart stop voltage cutoff 2 cell, powered by an Orion 3200. What happened was that the cutoff device kicks in as I went down the straight. That to me means that the powerplant was pulling power down to the device's threshold of 6.25 volts or possibly lower.

I tested 3 packs of my 3200, all had the same issue.

My testing was cut short because of this and so I went home. I checked my packs and they were still on 8.4 volts. Huh? What the..?

So I ask, is this lipo not suitable for top end racing as it can't seem to sustain the power draw? Should I sell my 3200s and buy 4800s instead? I just bought 4 of these 3200 packs a month ago. I dread going back to Ni-mh!

On the upside, I just met Andy Moore. He just flew into Sydney tonight and decided to visit our club. We shouted him a beer and hanged around a bit. He's one cool guy. Cheers Andy!
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:27 AM   #569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadsethara
Just want to share my experience with you lot and see if anyone has had the same problem.

I took my new Cyclone Hara Ed out for a test drive at our local track tonight. The car had a GTB 3.5R fitted with the Novak smart stop voltage cutoff 2 cell, powered by an Orion 3200. What happened was that the cutoff device kicks in as I went down the straight. That to me means that the powerplant was pulling power down to the device's threshold of 6.25 volts or possibly lower.

I tested 3 packs of my 3200, all had the same issue.

My testing was cut short because of this and so I went home. I checked my packs and they were still on 8.4 volts. Huh? What the..?

So I ask, is this lipo not suitable for top end racing as it can't seem to sustain the power draw? Should I sell my 3200s and buy 4800s instead? I just bought 4 of these 3200 packs a month ago. I dread going back to Ni-mh!

On the upside, I just met Andy Moore. He just flew into Sydney tonight and decided to visit our club. We shouted him a beer and hanged around a bit. He's one cool guy. Cheers Andy!
6.25V is pretty high. I would eliminate the device and try again. We have had no battery problems in modified on or off road so removing the device should not cause any problems as long as you don't run the car beyond the point at which it slows.
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:38 AM   #570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart
6.25V is pretty high. I would eliminate the device and try again. We have had no battery problems in modified on or off road so removing the device should not cause any problems as long as you don't run the car beyond the point at which it slows.
I still have my FMA AVC1 lipo cutoff which can be programmed. I'll install it and set it to 5.9v and see what happens.

I don't want to let the batteries go down to 5.7v even if it is just a spike. I want to make these babies last.

If it fails, its back to racing stock 27 (13.5 BL).

Thanks.
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