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Old 10-27-2006, 11:09 PM   #361
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Default i've tried them

the 3200 pack works the same as the 4800lipo, just a little lighter and less capacity. It fits perfectly in a tamiya mini. In the xray t2, the bulkheads are still in the way. The pack will fit, but you have to shove it under the part of the bulkhead that goes inbetween the c-cells, and the pack will be up against the rear bulkhead closest to the battey. I chose to remove about 1 or 2mm off the point that comes down and about 1 or 2mm off the side of the bulkhead. (same modifications as for the lipo 4800, except that you have to remove a lot less.) You can also trim the plastic cell holders to fit the lipo.

The fact that the battery fits the tamiya mini and any tamiya that only accepts a stick pack is a major plus. The battery works like any other lipo pack.
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Old 10-28-2006, 06:26 AM   #362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billjacobs
the 3200 pack works the same as the 4800lipo, just a little lighter
3200 lipo weighs at 200 grams
4800 lipo weighs at 275 grams

just a general idea of weight. im sure my scale is off or not as accurate.... so +5 or -5 grams to those measurements.
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Old 10-28-2006, 08:16 AM   #363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hebiki
3200 lipo weighs at 200 grams
4800 lipo weighs at 275 grams

just a general idea of weight. im sure my scale is off or not as accurate.... so +5 or -5 grams to those measurements.
Only real problem is that IB4200WC weight in at 425g
So thats 225g to add to keep your car balanced...
Not an easy thing to do, but I am working on it...LOL
Will take pictures of the 007 with the full weighted version...(when I get it)
I am not going to waste all my lead on my T2 as I won't be driving it for much longer unless Xray pulls the whole "Oh two more weeks".
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Old 10-28-2006, 09:35 AM   #364
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I run an MSX, the 3200 fits great, and the cutout up top will hold lead weight to get it closer to an IB 3800 pack weight, but doesn't it make the car feel more top heavy? Since the weight is basically at the top of the battery, instead more equally weighted through-out the battery as in a standard "sub C"? What are some suggestions for weight placement, or is it not that critical? (I was hoping to not have to weight the chassis so I can easily switch from Lipo to Sub "C") If Rick H. or Mr. Black are out there, I would appreciate your thoughts.
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Old 10-28-2006, 10:36 AM   #365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsquare
I run an MSX, the 3200 fits great, and the cutout up top will hold lead weight to get it closer to an IB 3800 pack weight, but doesn't it make the car feel more top heavy? Since the weight is basically at the top of the battery, instead more equally weighted through-out the battery as in a standard "sub C"? What are some suggestions for weight placement, or is it not that critical? (I was hoping to not have to weight the chassis so I can easily switch from Lipo to Sub "C") If Rick H. or Mr. Black are out there, I would appreciate your thoughts.
WHen I get the T2'007 I am going to try and find some brass thats about 1/4" and make some fit the area around the battery. Then use the Weight screw holes and just tap the Brass....
Might cost a bit more but would make shifting from Lipo to Nimh would be a breeze...
Once done I will take pics and what not...
Hope that helps,
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Old 10-28-2006, 12:02 PM   #366
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from what I found on the internet brass has a density of 8.4 grams per cubic cm. When I switched over to my 4800 I found the lipo to be about 280 grams opposed to 412 for a regular 3800 with bars and all. So I had to find a way to get 132 grams (412-280=132) of mass on the battery side. If you were to use brass and the 3200 was just as heavy as the 4800 (which it is not. I just don't know how light it is) you would need to find room for 15.7 cubic cm of brass which is approximately a cube of brass 4 cm in each dimension. There are 2.54 cm in one inch. So taht would be a cube of brass about 1.75 inches in each dimension. Sure I know youre going to spread it out, but just beaware how much brass you're going to need. Noe pure lead on the other hand has a density of 11.4 g/cubic cm. I ended up using lead/tin solder and molding it to my needs. I could get away with less space taken up because it ahs a higher density. I think my solder was 60% lead and 40% tin. Lead is 11.4 g/cubic cm and tin is 7.3 g/cubic cm. I applied the percentages to each of the materials and ended up with a rough estimate that my solder had a density of around 9.78 g/cubic cm. Just a thought or two for ya shookie. Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 10-30-2006, 04:09 PM   #367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsquare
I run an MSX, the 3200 fits great, and the cutout up top will hold lead weight to get it closer to an IB 3800 pack weight, but doesn't it make the car feel more top heavy? Since the weight is basically at the top of the battery, instead more equally weighted through-out the battery as in a standard "sub C"?
This depends on the weight you add and where. In the past many of our drivers have added the weight to the battery itself near the bottom or have made a tray of sorts out of lead. If you are not required to meet a minimum weight then much can be done with shock set-up rather then actual ballist.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsquare
What are some suggestions for weight placement, or is it not that critical? (I was hoping to not have to weight the chassis so I can easily switch from Lipo to Sub "C") .
To make it easy to switch back and forth I would suggest getting either screw on weights or attaching the weight to the battery itself. For those wanting to find a source for lead many fishing goods stores sell lead weight which can easily be machined down to your spec. and for those wanting to go next level Tungsten Carbide is a heavy metal as much as titanium is a light metal. (hint think drill blank) The periodic table will give you a good source to find the best solution.
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Old 10-30-2006, 10:22 PM   #368
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i tryed the 3200 in my jrxs and it will not fit just a fyi
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Old 10-31-2006, 01:27 AM   #369
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Old 10-31-2006, 05:56 AM   #370
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This reminds me of karting. I have to add 30kg of lead which is ALOT.

have you considered making small molds to the shape of your spaces in your chassis? such as in front and behind a battery. To make the molds you can get a thin metal tub (like one from a takeaway) and sculpt it to the right shape. Its pretty easy stuff to work with becasue it is thin. Once you have made it just melt the lead into it. Lead melts at 327 degrees celsious. burning gear is probably required. Most fab shops have it. But it wont take long to melt. Just pour as much in as you want it to be in thickness and wait to solidify...

It may be a bit messy but you can touch up the lead with a file and sand paper to get a nice clean finish.

Look around your car and find a space where a nice chunk of lead will fit
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Old 10-31-2006, 07:58 AM   #371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tsquare
I run an MSX, the 3200 fits great, and the cutout up top will hold lead weight to get it closer to an IB 3800 pack weight, but doesn't it make the car feel more top heavy? Since the weight is basically at the top of the battery, instead more equally weighted through-out the battery as in a standard "sub C"? What are some suggestions for weight placement, or is it not that critical? (I was hoping to not have to weight the chassis so I can easily switch from Lipo to Sub "C") If Rick H. or Mr. Black are out there, I would appreciate your thoughts.
Adding weight and balancing the car should make a difference. But in reality I could not really notice it. By re-tweaking the car with the lighter battery, it seemed no different than with the standard NiMH battery.

I have also added weight to the top of the 3200 battery. Even though it raises the center of gravity. The center of gravity will not be much different compared to the NiMH pack.

When we weighed individual components (servo, receiver, ESC), we found this in most cases, the 4200 NiMH battery weighed more than the individual components combined. Interestingly, a 4800 LiPo was lighter than the components by about the same amount that the NiMH was heavier. So even though the weight distribution changes, the balance does not (although the opposite side is now heavy).

Different components weight different amounts. BL systems weigh more than brushed. And different servos vary greatly.

I would start by mounting your personal transponder (or handout version) on the battery side of the vehicle. Also, use screw on weights in front off and behind the battery that can easily be removed or added when you are switching between battery types.
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Old 10-31-2006, 10:57 AM   #372
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Your last sentance perciously...
I wanted to be able to remove the added weight easily to go between different batteries...
I have already talked to a metel shop here in town and they said bring it in, they have something that can be worked to fit what ever I might need...including thin stuff to fit on top of the battery and maybe the spaces between the bumps on the bottom (not sure if I can trust it to stay put with just shoegoo or double sided tape), But once I get the material I would just have to pick the right shape and thickness then just mearly tap wholes in the material for screws to fit the hsole in the chassis and BINGO....All set....
When I am done I will get pics and if its not too pricey I might make some for other T2'007 owners...
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Old 11-01-2006, 08:16 PM   #373
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So I think I've used my lipo for over 20 full runs and I wanted to know how to balance my batt after reading this article.
http://www.rccaraction.com/articles/orion_battry.asp

Do I connect the lipos positive terminal to my Ice's positive wire and connect the small plug to the Ice's negative wire and charge at half the rate? After finishing that cycle do I connect the lipos negative terminal to my Ice's negative wire and connect the small plug to the Ice's positive wire and charge again? Specific charge settings and instruction would help using my Ice. Thanks.
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Old 11-02-2006, 07:58 AM   #374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flying G.E.O.
So I think I've used my lipo for over 20 full runs and I wanted to know how to balance my batt after reading this article.
http://www.rccaraction.com/articles/orion_battry.asp

Do I connect the lipos positive terminal to my Ice's positive wire and connect the small plug to the Ice's negative wire and charge at half the rate? After finishing that cycle do I connect the lipos negative terminal to my Ice's negative wire and connect the small plug to the Ice's positive wire and charge again? Specific charge settings and instruction would help using my Ice. Thanks.
I recently picked up the Orion Balancer since I have 5 packs running between four cars. I figured it was worth it since I had so much money invested in this. Got it wired up and it turns out that none of my batteries are out of balance yet after at least 15 runs. One battery I picked up used so I have no idea how many runs are on it. After checking with a meter, my worst battery's cells were within .02v of each other.
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Old 11-02-2006, 08:56 AM   #375
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This is typical, we have battery with close to 100 cycles and is still is within .02V and has never been balanced but has been abused.

I glad to see others come out say something as I am sure many don't believe us when we claim just how hi quality these cells really are.

Some claim that after 30 cycles they where able to increase there runtime by balancing however we have not seen this in our own testing.
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