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Old 07-12-2006, 01:02 AM   #1
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Default Soldering Iron Fix!

I have a circuitspecialists.com Hakko replica iron. I am hoping others of you have the same iron or the Hakko 936. My iron intermittently goes cold. I think theres a short in the unit or in the iron/cord unit. Heres what I see. There is a red light on my box at the front next to the temp knob. My light flashes in random intervals and sometimes stays off for several seconds. I think the light is supposed to stay on when the iron is on. I am thinking that the iron is only getting little spurts of electricity not allowing it to reach full temp. Can anyone verify the inteded operation of the red light on the iron? Thanks!! You can't imagine how frustrating it is to try and wiggle the iron just right to get the magical red light on so I can friken solder!!
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Old 07-12-2006, 01:08 AM   #2
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Send it in for repair.
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Old 07-12-2006, 01:08 AM   #3
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I believe that the light means that it is currently heating up, once it reaches the desired temperature, the light shuts off.
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Old 07-12-2006, 01:16 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles
Send it in for repair.

As the iron only cost about 40 shipped I am more inclined to just buy an actual 936. Shipping alone back and forth would get me half wat to a hakko.

Actually I would rather fix it! I temped the tip of the iron on its hottest setting after letting it sit in its holder for several minutes. After setting in its cradle for a few minutes the light just flashes on and off pretty regularly. (This seems to validate FK's idea. Can anyone else verify?) I got my ir temp gun as close as possible to the tip and the hottest reading I got was 360 degrees F. That seems pretty cool/cold to me. The info for my iron online says it ahould be around 800F at its hottest. Something is definitely wrong.
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Last edited by andrewdoherty; 07-12-2006 at 01:37 AM.
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Old 07-12-2006, 02:00 AM   #5
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With my Hakko 936, a solid light indicates that the unit is heating up, while a blinking, or flashing light means that it has reached the correct temperature.
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Old 07-12-2006, 02:19 AM   #6
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THX Technical.
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Old 07-12-2006, 06:54 AM   #7
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As they always say, you get what you pay for!! I love my Hakko and would not use anything other.
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Old 07-12-2006, 07:01 AM   #8
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does anyone have a temp reading on their Hakko iron tip? Does it really get as hot as it says it does?
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Old 07-12-2006, 07:55 AM   #9
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If I remember correctly 800- 900 is about right. If you don't get that much it is not going to work.
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
does anyone have a temp reading on their Hakko iron tip? Does it really get as hot as it says it does?
The Hakko has a temp. calibration to get the temp correct with the knob.
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:47 AM   #11
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Or, you could just go to Lowe's and pick up a Weller SPG80L for 24.99. It's an 80 watt iron that runs at over 900F at the tip. I've had many other irons including various solder stations and this inexpensive unit from Weller is by far the best I've ever used. You'll just have to go to Radio Shack and pick up a stand for it.

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Old 07-12-2006, 11:57 AM   #12
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I donno about you guys, but I have temp gun'd my 936 and I can't get it above 370 regardless. Sometimes, it works great on batteries, sometimes it is less than productive. It never seems like it is hot enough. New tips, cleaned the elements... nothing improves it. I haven't been impressed with mine since I bought it, actually.

I'm wondering if anyone else has managed to get "accurate" temp readings from their iron?
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Old 07-12-2006, 12:32 PM   #13
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Most likely your temp guns aren't able to read high enough or they can't take an accurate reading on the surface of the tip.

Irregardless, the 936 and most copies all work the same- the red light only indicates when the base is heating the element. That's why it's on for 10-20 seconds when you power up, then it only comes on occassionally to maintain a certain temp range. If you'll watch, it'll stay on almost the whole time you are soldering because you are decreasing the tip temp with the solder.

If you aren't sure about the temperature being correct, try soldering two wires together. If the solder melts and flows nicely, but not too fast, then the temp dial should be around 600-700 deg. F. Keep in ind the Dean's and Novak melt a little lower then most standard 60/40 rosin core solder. You can use the little poentiometer with the rubber plug in it to calibrate the iron temp. Hakko has some nice articles on their website about proper tip maintenance and care- you should go find them. I'm at work- no time to find htem for you right now. Post the links.

Jason
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogRacing
Most likely your temp guns aren't able to read high enough or they can't take an accurate reading on the surface of the tip.

Irregardless, the 936 and most copies all work the same- the red light only indicates when the base is heating the element. That's why it's on for 10-20 seconds when you power up, then it only comes on occassionally to maintain a certain temp range. If you'll watch, it'll stay on almost the whole time you are soldering because you are decreasing the tip temp with the solder.

If you aren't sure about the temperature being correct, try soldering two wires together. If the solder melts and flows nicely, but not too fast, then the temp dial should be around 600-700 deg. F. Keep in ind the Dean's and Novak melt a little lower then most standard 60/40 rosin core solder. You can use the little poentiometer with the rubber plug in it to calibrate the iron temp. Hakko has some nice articles on their website about proper tip maintenance and care- you should go find them. I'm at work- no time to find htem for you right now. Post the links.

Jason
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
You can use the little poentiometer with the rubber plug in it to calibrate the iron temp.
Tell me more . . . turn to the right to increase the temp and turn to the left to decrease the twmp? I have new tip and a new ceramic element, but to be honest I use a sponge constantly while I am using my iron and the tip looks really shiny still. I have my reservations that those things are the problem.
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