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Old 03-08-2003, 12:41 PM   #106
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I'm going to be running on a medium sized carpet track. What would be the ideal setup for the Monster stock? So far it seems like there is quite a variety of brushes/springs being used...

Right now I have Reedy 766, 767, and Trinity 4499 brushes. I am trying to get a motor set up for next weekend so I won't be able to have access to any Fantom brushes or anything else by then.

What would you guys recommend, the 767's or 4499's? Or has anybody tried running the 767 on the positive and 766 on the negative? I have had awesome luck doing this on MVP's. As for springs there also seems to be a few different ways to set it up. Is the red/red setup fast for running either 767's or 4499's?

One other question, straight out of the box how well have you guys found the brush hoods to be aligned and how well was the armature centered in the can?

Thanks.
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Old 03-08-2003, 04:51 PM   #107
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I've been running purple springs on both ends and fantom 315s. Reedy 767s or trinity 4499s work good too. this giev a bit more punch out of corners so you can run it on a bigger veriety of tracks.
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Old 03-08-2003, 09:15 PM   #108
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Just another question...

I just picked up my MS today and was wondering what brushes come on it, are they 4499's? Also, what springs come on it? Is it just me or does it not make much sense for Trinity to put on the package to use the green/red spring combo, but yet they don't even include them with the motor....just trying to get us to buy more of their products Im assuming??

Are the brushes that come with it any good? Or should I just go with a set of 4499's right off the bat?
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Old 03-08-2003, 09:19 PM   #109
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if the motor is a "pro" then it comes with the 4499 with red and green springs. i found that the reedy 767 work the best.
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Old 03-08-2003, 09:48 PM   #110
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With TRI 4503 and red spring on the + And TRI 4499 on the - with a red spring, the Monster balances out. Also, make sure you are shimming the motor well within its magnetic center. Trinity sells a shim kit that gives you three basic sizes, aluminum as the thickest, black steel as the middle size, and brass for the thinest. Trinity ALSO offers teflon shims, when sandwiched between brass shims on each end of the armature, and lubed accordingly, make for a very free-spinning armature. If you need smaller sizes to make it right... BRP offers them in varying sizes to make it all work JUST right. Its a little time consuming, but the efficiency gained pays off all across the board.

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Old 03-08-2003, 11:58 PM   #111
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DaveW, I have already shimmed the armature with teflon shims.

I did not get a Pro version as this was all my lhs had in stock. Just curious if the Pro comes with 4499 brushes, what does the non-pro come with?
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Old 03-09-2003, 12:01 AM   #112
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From what i have seen, the stock non-pro brushes are the cheesy japan stock brush with a copper shunt. I dont know about everyone else....
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Old 03-09-2003, 01:15 AM   #113
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Something like that. And I believe that the Pro does come with 4499's in them. But while I've sometimes gotten good power out of 767's, for some reason they haven't produced it as reliably as I'd like(honestly don't know why, had one I bought in Milwaukee for the Novak race that ran great on 767's, but a couple of weekends later at home, it just wouldn't work as well with them). So I started trying some combinations & new brushes, & finally settled on the newer Trinity 4505's(that's their "Stock 99" compound with the diagonal serrations), & for some reason, the motor picked back up with them & has continued to run well ever since. I can't guarantee great results(I think it differs from one to another), but I do think that 4505's are worth a try....
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Old 03-09-2003, 12:44 PM   #114
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Thanks for all the help guys
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Old 03-09-2003, 09:24 PM   #115
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Do many people here run these in TC3s. Im just about to get a FT TC3 and since this is my first electric on road i have no idea about touring. The tracks that the club run on are mainly small twisty ones. Can some one suggest a suitable ratio? It doesn't have to be perfect, just a starting point.

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Old 03-09-2003, 09:31 PM   #116
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They're used all the time in TC3's. I'd start in the mid sevens and work from there.
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Old 03-10-2003, 01:12 AM   #117
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What does mid sevens mean? Do u mean final gear ratio

If so it looks like i need to pull out the old calculator or......
you could just tell me j/k

So this would be a good starting point for tight tracks
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Old 03-10-2003, 08:27 AM   #118
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Mid 7's would be the final drive ratio. On a TC3 if you're running the stock 72 tooth, a 24 tooth will give you a 7.5, 23 tooth gives you a 7.826. All you do is (spur/pinion)*2.5= final ratio. 2.5 is the internal ratio for the TC3. I have a Excel spread sheet with all of the common 48 and 64 pitch gear ratios on it if you want it. Let me know and I'll Email it to you.
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Old 03-10-2003, 08:47 AM   #119
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I ran my MS with 6.8 final ratios.... I can catchup with the japs stocker ... before this I am using GM with 6.6 final ratio and can beat the japs stockers with the same ratio...

how should I ran my MS to keep up with the japs stockers?? any way?
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Old 03-10-2003, 09:15 AM   #120
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Are you taking tire size into consideration? A mid 7 final drive would be slow on a car with the tire size of 2.22. Or are all of you referring to rubber tires (larger in diameter), and it is just assumed so?
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