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New Novak Stock Brushless

New Novak Stock Brushless

Old 12-16-2006, 11:24 AM
  #451  
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i was running an xray 007 112 spur with 34 pinion. this gearing was what i felt was the same as what i needed to compete with my tuned co27. same lap times if not a little bit faster than my brushed motor
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Old 12-16-2006, 02:38 PM
  #452  
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That FDR (5.59 if I am not mistaken) sounds like what I have been running with large rubber tires on carpet. I am runnig the sintered rotor and have two fans on the motor and have yet to get the motor over 120. That is with ambient temps indoors around 70*.
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Old 12-16-2006, 04:53 PM
  #453  
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The temp sensor exists to prevent the old bonded magents from overheating, degaussing and being ruined. The sintered rotors are more efficient, have more torque and can survive much higher temperatures.

If you leave the blue temp sensor wire intact on a sintered magnet motor your motor power output can be severly limited.

ROAR allows the use of Sensor or Sensorless motors as long as the motor meets the rules (3 slot/3 phase stator, Wye termination, etc,...)

Pulling or cutting the blue wire is not illegal.

FYI, the blue wire does nothing on the LRP Spheres. LRP does not use a motor temp sensor.
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Old 12-17-2006, 09:32 AM
  #454  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
i ran it against the 19t and finished 4th in the A-main ,rollout was around 67mm
I thought so....LOL, but I will try not to get back to STOCK class or those Brushless hater will boot you out....
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Old 12-17-2006, 09:54 AM
  #455  
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So let me get this right then.....I can run my 3.5 without the blue wire and the motor won't go bang? and the ESC won't cut out?

What about the ESC though, is it still protected in anyway as I have melted an ESC to chassis once this season when the temp cut didn't work??

Sam
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Old 12-17-2006, 10:04 AM
  #456  
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Originally Posted by Sam_Smith
So let me get this right then.....I can run my 3.5 without the blue wire and the motor won't go bang? and the ESC won't cut out?

What about the ESC though, is it still protected in anyway as I have melted an ESC to chassis once this season when the temp cut didn't work??

Sam
After you cutted the blue wire, there are no thermal from the speedo cause the speedo will no longer able to read the temp on the motor, so your motor can reach 200 degree and above untill it blow and the esc will keep on going. So yes, your motor will NOT be protected and it will go BANG if you are pushing it too hard.

For stock motor (this is a stock motor thread)...I really doubt ppl need to cut that wire to avoid thermal. Only those who run 4.5 or 3.5 for outdoor might want to consider that if they are at the thermal edge of gearing.
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Old 12-17-2006, 03:24 PM
  #457  
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Originally Posted by Solara
I thought so....LOL, but I will try not to get back to STOCK class or those Brushless hater will boot you out....
well it was a stock equivelant brushless motor agains 9 other car with 19t
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Old 12-17-2006, 03:25 PM
  #458  
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Originally Posted by Solara
After you cutted the blue wire, there are no thermal from the speedo cause the speedo will no longer able to read the temp on the motor, so your motor can reach 200 degree and above untill it blow and the esc will keep on going. So yes, your motor will NOT be protected and it will go BANG if you are pushing it too hard.

For stock motor (this is a stock motor thread)...I really doubt ppl need to cut that wire to avoid thermal. Only those who run 4.5 or 3.5 for outdoor might want to consider that if they are at the thermal edge of gearing.
since getting the sintered rotors in all my motors i havent had any heat issues whatsoever
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Old 12-17-2006, 03:43 PM
  #459  
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J
since getting the sintered rotors in all my motors i havent had any heat issues whatsoever
What pinion/spur that you are using on Mi2Ec..? Rubber and foam (don't remember you run foam on carpet or not...)

P.S...decision time about the EC now...I hate that time...
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Old 12-17-2006, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Solara
What pinion/spur that you are using on Mi2Ec..? Rubber and foam (don't remember you run foam on carpet or not...)

P.S...decision time about the EC now...I hate that time...
i ran it on a 1/12th scale .
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Old 12-17-2006, 04:17 PM
  #461  
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Originally Posted by Solara
After you cutted the blue wire, there are no thermal from the speedo cause the speedo will no longer able to read the temp on the motor, so your motor can reach 200 degree and above untill it blow and the esc will keep on going. So yes, your motor will NOT be protected and it will go BANG if you are pushing it too hard.

For stock motor (this is a stock motor thread)...I really doubt ppl need to cut that wire to avoid thermal. Only those who run 4.5 or 3.5 for outdoor might want to consider that if they are at the thermal edge of gearing.
People here thermo all the time with the 13.5 motor. They are running indoor carpet with foams. Roll out is up and down the chart. I don't run brushless yet. But this is just my observation of several people at the track who ran in the Brushless stock class. But now we just combined Brushed and Brushless stock together...
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Old 12-18-2006, 09:05 AM
  #462  
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Originally Posted by KilRuf
People here thermo all the time with the 13.5 motor. They are running indoor carpet with foams. Roll out is up and down the chart. I don't run brushless yet. But this is just my observation of several people at the track who ran in the Brushless stock class. But now we just combined Brushed and Brushless stock together...
I will have to check my rollout to compare from the last time...with my Mi2EC, I was running about 1.09 rollout, car was slow compare to brush motor but after like 8 minutes of run time, motor was less then 120 degrees. This weekend, I am gear the car to what it suppose to be....108/36 @ about 1.25 rollout, that speed should be equal to those top end tuned brush motor...and i will check the temp and see there are any rooms for a gear or 2 higher....

Still have not seen 1 person thermal the 13.5 yet.......may be we are keeping the 13.5 close to the stock brush instead of stock 19T speed......LOL.
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:12 AM
  #463  
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To add to what Kerry was explaining,

for the two motors that fried, both were using the LRP speedy. I was the only one using a GTB (big mutha) and had zero problems, altho my FDR was round 5.6 at the worst on my MRE. I was coming off around 145 with two fans. Not sure what the GTB is set too, for the temp cutout, but mine was able to get to 160 on one run with the system working fine, altho a little sluggish out of corners.

The first problem on Kerrys car, was reminicent of the cogging effect on the little Mamba brushless. But these are a sensored system, so my only explaination was a incorrect sensor. We also tried different profiles on the LRP, and all with the exact same result. We tried another motor, and it worked fine. The second problem on Gregs car, well he runs his stocks pretty hard, but i was surprised when it blew. His car had worked faultlessly all night and was fast. I cant recall his temps but they werent out of this world. Greg was the only one running a Sintered rotor also. So one Sintered and one totally stock 13.5 (both BRAND NEW) failed. Could it be the LRP speedy upsetting things?? Greg normally runs modified so he has experience with the LRP speedy also. His LRP has run the 3.5, 4.5 and 5.5r without problems.

Any ideas????
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:13 AM
  #464  
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More info, we run on a tight carpet track on foams, so that is usually the source of our heat!! the ambient temp wasnt high at all.
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Old 12-18-2006, 11:07 AM
  #465  
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I've been running the GTB/13.5 on carpet with foams for a few weeks. Your rollout will be dependent on your setup and layout. With the stock rotor I've geared from 26.4mm up to 33.2mm. I can tell you that you will thermo with a 33mm rollout and a car that is bound up. Another thing is batteries, if you pratice with a high rollout and don't thermo on 3800s, you could still thermo with a good 4200 near the end of a run.
The best cure is the sinitered rotor. It dropped my motor temp drasticly. With the sinitered rotor I'm running a high 36mm rollout and it comes off the track at 130 degrees. I've run the rollout even higher, close to 38mm, but I'm at my personal driving limit in the 36.8mm range.
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