New Novak Stock Brushless
12-10-2006, 04:18 AM
#421
Hi everyone,
At todays end of year enduro I managed to run for 25 min on one battery at full race speed. These motors are so efficient, after 25 min (4800 lipo) and no heat sink, the motor was only just warm.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=139861
Pete
At todays end of year enduro I managed to run for 25 min on one battery at full race speed. These motors are so efficient, after 25 min (4800 lipo) and no heat sink, the motor was only just warm.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=139861
Pete
12-11-2006, 10:21 PM
#423
Anyone else tried installing the velociti heatsink sleve on a 4300 or a 13.5? I purchased two heatsinks today and getting the sleeve onto the stack or whatever its called is HARD!!! In fact I was using the "endbell" to move the sleevesink the last two mm and broke of two of the three endbell screws into the can. It certainly doesn't slide on like the standard purple sleeve. I got the thermal paste on and followed the directions to the letter, and I am no hack when it comes to delicate stuff, but man, I can't imagine that the resistance I felt was the experience Novak intended when tey designed this sleevesink for these motors. The worst part was that I was past the point of no return and couldn't get it to budge either way! I suppose I'll call Novak tomorow and see what gives.
12-11-2006, 11:31 PM
#424
Tech Adept
I have the integrated heatsink installed onto my 3.5 motor, it was a neat slip fit. I have heard that some are tighter than others, which is fairly understandable when you have a very thin walled aluminium extrusion, and a machined motor stack to deal with. They have manufacturing tolerances which may be a bit too loose.
There is a trick, you can warm up the heatsink by placing it in some hot water or an oven (Not Microwave) to make it expand a little, it should just slip on. But that creates it's own problems when trying to get it back off again.
Regards,
There is a trick, you can warm up the heatsink by placing it in some hot water or an oven (Not Microwave) to make it expand a little, it should just slip on. But that creates it's own problems when trying to get it back off again.
Regards,
12-12-2006, 12:36 AM
#425
I managed to destroy a 4300 trying to put the heat sink on. It was the least awesome R/C experience ever.
Use the old purple ring to set on top of the heat sink and gently tap it into place. It's very clearly unable to be removed once it's on there, and can't be twisted, so make sure you've got it right where you want it.
I personally think the instructions for the heat sink should be more clear, with warnings about not being able to shift or remove it once it's started sliding on the stator. It works damn well though, and cools the motor significantly.
Use the old purple ring to set on top of the heat sink and gently tap it into place. It's very clearly unable to be removed once it's on there, and can't be twisted, so make sure you've got it right where you want it.
I personally think the instructions for the heat sink should be more clear, with warnings about not being able to shift or remove it once it's started sliding on the stator. It works damn well though, and cools the motor significantly.
12-12-2006, 08:56 AM
#427
You guys should both contact customer service today at 949.833.8873 or [email protected] and I'm sure we can get you both taken care of!
12-12-2006, 09:31 AM
#428
Originally Posted by Evicerator
You guys should both contact customer service today at 949.833.8873 or [email protected] and I'm sure we can get you both taken care of!
12-12-2006, 05:28 PM
#430
The trick is if the Sleve-Sink is tight to Heat it up with at Heat gun as you put it on.
Some fit fine, no problem, others need a little heat to loosen up the sleeve a bit.
Some fit fine, no problem, others need a little heat to loosen up the sleeve a bit.
12-13-2006, 11:16 PM
#431
Tech Adept
Here are some pics of my GTB and 13.5 in my CRC 3.2R. I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, I've been to busy to make it out to a practice night at our local track; no brushless allowed on race nights either. I've got it geared with a 34/88 64p. (Sorry about the quality of the pics)
12-13-2006, 11:40 PM
#433
Tech Adept
It's the JR3650
12-14-2006, 01:02 PM
#434
Does the Novak 13.5 come with the larger bearing and end cap? The NOvak site has the SS upgrade kit that comes with a large bearing, new end cap, and a sintered rotor ..... at my hobby shop the have only the sintered rotor, which leads me to believe that the 13.5 already has the bearing upgrade.
And does the sintered rotor make a performance difference?
I know this question has been answered before, but i don't feel like searching page by page for the answer.
Thanks in advance!
And does the sintered rotor make a performance difference?
I know this question has been answered before, but i don't feel like searching page by page for the answer.
Thanks in advance!
12-14-2006, 01:44 PM
#435
Originally Posted by shaggys40oz
Does the Novak 13.5 come with the larger bearing and end cap? The NOvak site has the SS upgrade kit that comes with a large bearing, new end cap, and a sintered rotor ..... at my hobby shop the have only the sintered rotor, which leads me to believe that the 13.5 already has the bearing upgrade.
And does the sintered rotor make a performance difference?
I know this question has been answered before, but i don't feel like searching page by page for the answer.
Thanks in advance!
And does the sintered rotor make a performance difference?
I know this question has been answered before, but i don't feel like searching page by page for the answer.
Thanks in advance!
