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Old 09-27-2006, 08:11 AM   #226
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Strangely enough...there were those who complained about the diffs being pre-built in the other kits.
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Old 09-27-2006, 08:23 AM   #227
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who the heck would complain about diffs prebuilt?
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Old 09-27-2006, 08:37 AM   #228
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A few did...

Personally, I thought it was great that they were pre-assembled...

With a lower cost kit like the T2R, though, sacrifices needed to be made in order to reach the desired price point. The diffs aren't pre-built, but they DO still include carbide diff and thrust balls, which is pretty amazing for a kit in this price range.

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Old 09-27-2006, 09:32 AM   #229
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as apposed to regular aluminum balls?
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Old 09-27-2006, 09:54 AM   #230
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Many kits, especially budget kits, use standard steel balls.
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:03 AM   #231
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I found the hardest part about building the diff to be the thrust bearing assemby. In the "real T2" you get 7 carbide balls and a circular plastic housing with a hole for each ball to keep them all in place, then you apply some grease and place this inside 2 steel washers, then you thread the screw that keeps the whole thing together through the middle and insert the assembly inside the diff.

In the T2R, same deal except there is no plastic carbide ball holder thingy, which means that you need to somehow get all this stuff together while trying to balance 7 greasy balls between 2 washers, and keep them all in place while trying to screw it all together...meanwhile there are 12 other greasy balls in the main part of the diff that you have to prevent from falling out whilst all this is going on.

maybe there is an easier way, but so far I dont think that many people have breezed through it without any problems.
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:25 AM   #232
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the diffs really werent that bad to put together. i found that if you put the long screw that holds the diff together through the out drive the thrust bearing goes into, the end of the screw pokes through the hole enough to keep the balls for the thrust bearing from falling through. just grease the balls and slide them down the side of the outdrive. then just drop the top washer in, and put the long screw in the way it should be and ur all set. you just need patience.
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:25 AM   #233
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the diffs really werent that bad to put together. i found that if you put the long screw that holds the diff together through the out drive the thrust bearing goes into, the end of the screw pokes through the hole enough to keep the balls for the thrust bearing from falling through. just grease the balls and slide them down the side of the outdrive. then just drop the top washer in, and put the long screw in the way it should be and ur all set. you just need patience.
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:27 AM   #234
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sorry about the double post. my internets acting weird this morning.
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Old 09-28-2006, 09:28 AM   #235
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Yeah I can kind of understand the frustration some people have had with building diffs .. but they aren't any harder then any other composite diff, they are almost identicle to the Pro4/TC3 diffs.. There is technique there that once you've figured it out you can put a diff together real quick, and you never need to worry about losing your balls.

New people might have issues, but anyone who's raced a car on a regular basis with a composite diff probably hasn't had any issues putting these together.

Kind of like what xraycer said, but I do it different .. I put first put the screw on a hex driver, put the washer on, grease the washer, add the balls, add the other washer (which I greased a touch) and then slide the hole thing up into the outdrive. I just leave it like that, hex driver and all until I'm ready for the rest of it. If you have a hex driver holding the screw in you can pick up and manipulate the outdrive with the thrust bearing in it without worry that the screw will push out and dump the bearings.

Put the diff ring, gear, and greased balls on the other side and then you just put the two together. If you put a little grease on the diff ring where it touches the plastic it will stay stuck to the outdrive - so you can turn the side with the thrust assembly "upside down" and insert it into the other side that is holding the gear/bearing combo. If you put the nut on first you just need to screw it together from that point.
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Old 09-28-2006, 11:31 AM   #236
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I have also put my diffs together the way Desolas mentioned but since the xray grease is so thin i found it easier to assemble the thrust bearing in the outdrive. Both ways do work good though.
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Old 10-03-2006, 08:00 PM   #237
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Default Can anyone mention how the plastic diffs are holding up....

front and rear etc? I want to try them in my T2 for 4300 brushless.
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Old 10-03-2006, 08:28 PM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
The one-way and full shocks are not interchangeable. The rear diff is though. Take a look at the XRAY T1 & T2 Parts Cross Reference Table for more questions concerning compatibility.
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Old 10-03-2006, 09:00 PM   #239
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My molded diffs survived a effectively 10 runs with Novak 4.5 foam/carpet a mix of a 3200 lipo, 4400 lipo, 3800 nimh.

But a thrust bearing ball broke in half That locked up the diff and the thust washers were destroyed on the ball sides so had to be flipped; and I ran the diff with 6 thrust balls. It ran 4 runs after the ball busted.

Any one ever bust a diff ball in half?
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Old 10-03-2006, 09:44 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gacjr0
My molded diffs survived a effectively 10 runs with Novak 4.5 foam/carpet a mix of a 3200 lipo, 4400 lipo, 3800 nimh.

But a thrust bearing ball broke in half That locked up the diff and the thust washers were destroyed on the ball sides so had to be flipped; and I ran the diff with 6 thrust balls. It ran 4 runs after the ball busted.

Any one ever bust a diff ball in half?

were these Xray diffs? or some other brand?
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Last edited by PeteB; 10-03-2006 at 10:41 PM.
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