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Old 09-23-2007, 11:06 AM   #211
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Originally Posted by mxzhonkey View Post
just wanted to tell u the traxxas setup has a sensor port for sensored motors

and i wanted to let you all know that a novak motor can be used with a mamba max, i just got third in A main at the hobbytown annual fall classic, which is in it 11th year, is the largest event in the northern colorado area, there was down to e main in stock/13.5, i pitted my 13.5 mated to my mm against a field of 13.5 novaks and gtbs, plus 2 stockers. i would have done better than third but i had to make my way out of a massive crash made by the area @$$. just need to set the settings on the mm correctly and get used to no mashing the throttle

Nick
Any pics to share with us on the wiring? how is the performance like?
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Old 09-23-2007, 04:23 PM   #212
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Im about to purchase a Vortex 7.5 for my Mamba Max and have been doing a little research for running sensored motors. Here are some suggestions I believe will help prevent cogging or even eliminate it completely!

Punch control - start off at around 50%. If still cogging bad move up, or if not cogging at all move down, but adjust it to your liking of course

Drak Brake - I've heard some people say to leave this on a minimum, so if you need drag, have it set to a minimum.

Start Power - should be set to low, because most scenario's ive heard about cogging, they cog on start off, so leave it set to low.

Motor timing - With a vortex/vantage BL motor you can adjust timing on the can so leave motor timing at normal on the esc. With novak and similar motors, start off at normal and after a run check temp. if hot go low or even lowest.

Throttle curve - adjusting your throttle curve is probably the best way in my opinion to prevent/eliminate cogging. I dont know alot about adjusting the throttle curve for sensored motors, so fiddle around with it until it feels right. If there's anyone out there who knows alot about throttle curves please comment.
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Old 09-23-2007, 04:31 PM   #213
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Man... posting bad advice is worse than posting no advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift Demon View Post
Im about to purchase a Vortex 7.5 for my Mamba Max and have been doing a little research for running sensored motors. Here are some suggestions I believe will help prevent cogging or even eliminate it completely!

Punch control - start off at around 50%. If still cogging bad move up, or if not cogging at all move down, but adjust it to your liking of course

Drak Brake - I've heard some people say to leave this on a minimum, so if you need drag, have it set to a minimum.

Start Power - should be set to low, because most scenario's ive heard about cogging, they cog on start off, so leave it set to low.

Motor timing - With a vortex/vantage BL motor you can adjust timing on the can so leave motor timing at normal on the esc. With novak and similar motors, start off at normal and after a run check temp. if hot go low or even lowest.

Throttle curve - adjusting your throttle curve is probably the best way in my opinion to prevent/eliminate cogging. I dont know alot about adjusting the throttle curve for sensored motors, so fiddle around with it until it feels right. If there's anyone out there who knows alot about throttle curves please comment.
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Old 09-23-2007, 07:12 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift Demon View Post
Im about to purchase a Vortex 7.5 for my Mamba Max and have been doing a little research for running sensored motors. Here are some suggestions I believe will help prevent cogging or even eliminate it completely!

Punch control - start off at around 50%. If still cogging bad move up, or if not cogging at all move down, but adjust it to your liking of course

Drak Brake - I've heard some people say to leave this on a minimum, so if you need drag, have it set to a minimum.

Start Power - should be set to low, because most scenario's ive heard about cogging, they cog on start off, so leave it set to low.

Motor timing - With a vortex/vantage BL motor you can adjust timing on the can so leave motor timing at normal on the esc. With novak and similar motors, start off at normal and after a run check temp. if hot go low or even lowest.

Throttle curve - adjusting your throttle curve is probably the best way in my opinion to prevent/eliminate cogging. I dont know alot about adjusting the throttle curve for sensored motors, so fiddle around with it until it feels right. If there's anyone out there who knows alot about throttle curves please comment.

This is interesting... anyone care to share about the wirings to the sensored motor?

Appreciated
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Old 09-24-2007, 12:26 AM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamge View Post
Man... posting bad advice is worse than posting no advice.
What is wrong with this advice?? I am running vortex 3.5 and a novak 10.5 without any cogging and what he wrote is what I had to do to run these motors with out problems. I out run any Novaks 3.5 at my track and my temps are much lower then on the Novaks.

Ronald
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:34 AM   #216
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Quote:
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Man... posting bad advice is worse than posting no advice.
Im glad to see there is someone out there to put down my comments, thanks very much for ruining it for me. I was 'ATTEMPTING' to help those in need of information regarding mamba's and sensored motors.

Thanks for the comment, it has now prompted me to post 'NOTHING' informative!!

Adamge - if you have any 'advice' about preventing cogging with sensored motors, please by all means post your thoughts. By the looks of your posts, i would suggest you know a bit more than me about these things...
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Old 09-24-2007, 03:30 AM   #217
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Good post Drift Demon. You can find some info I posted here http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...136426&page=28 about the vortec and Novak. I even posted my settings and throttle curve.

Ronald

Last edited by mooony; 09-24-2007 at 03:31 AM. Reason: Modified link
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Old 09-24-2007, 08:11 AM   #218
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The bad advice I mention was the timing bit. The Mamba Max is a sensor-less ESC. That means it figures out the rotor's position by watching voltages in the motor wires. The timing endbell on sensored brushless motors advances/retards the position of the Hall Effect sensors that sensored brushless ESCs use to figure out the rotor's position.

I didn't figure out how to remove the stuttering on my MM+ Novak 13.5SS combo at launch. I just found a throttle motion that was eventually successful and used it. It sure messed with the brushed guys that started immediately behind me in the mains ;> The tone goes, they launch, while my car goes backwards.
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Old 09-24-2007, 08:46 AM   #219
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I had the same impression about the motor timing on the end bell but after I cleaned the motor bearings I replaced the end bell thinking it would not matter the motor would not even start moving. Don't ask me why but placing the end bell back like it was the motor preformed like it did before. So I guess it does have some effect on the mamba max.

I don't have any problems pulling a way from a dead start with a 3.5 or with the 10.5. The only problem I had with the 10.5 is that you really need good batteries. I was running with some 3700 GP batteries and motor just would not move. Replacing them with IB4200 WC no problems. With the vortex 3.5 the GP 3700 did not have this problem.

Ronald
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Old 09-24-2007, 12:46 PM   #220
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For some reason my Vortex 3.5 is slower than other using LRP or Novak 3.5 motors...Its as fast as a Novak 5.5...which sucks...I know it can go faster, much faster, but have reset my settings and forgot to write them down. I have gone back to the track and now my system is slower...

I am gearing at 10.5FDR 102/21 64P on my Serpent S400. Thank goodness the car handles very well and I can hand with the faster cars, but the speed is killing me.

Start power: low
Puch: unlimited
Drag: none
Timing: normal
BL/Lipo
Throttle curve: stock/linear

What can it be? I suspenct its the timing on the vortex motor! I oepened once a few weeks ago to clean it out and I think the timing is off where it came stock for the 3.5...Anyone know the correct stock position for this motor or recommend a good "fast position" that wont over heat the motor?
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Old 09-24-2007, 04:42 PM   #221
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Im pretty sure you can gear the 3.5 lower than that my friend. Ask what FDR the other LRP/Novak 3.5 guys are using and go from there. With the timing issue, you should always mark somewhere where the endbell is positioned before removing it, but the endbell has a marking on it anyway.

May i suggest you read this - http://press.teamorion.com/instructi...ers_manual.pdf
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Old 09-24-2007, 09:16 PM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift Demon View Post
Im pretty sure you can gear the 3.5 lower than that my friend. Ask what FDR the other LRP/Novak 3.5 guys are using and go from there. With the timing issue, you should always mark somewhere where the endbell is positioned before removing it, but the endbell has a marking on it anyway.

May i suggest you read this - http://press.teamorion.com/instructi...ers_manual.pdf
Novak's are gearing at 10.4-10.6 to avoid thermal shut downs...they're quicker still. LRP's they're around 10.2...will try another couple of teeth and see how it does- one at a time, of course...maybe this motor can take a or needs a few more teeth than the Novak to get up to speed..
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Old 09-24-2007, 11:24 PM   #223
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Novak's are gearing at 10.4-10.6 to avoid thermal shut downs...they're quicker still. LRP's they're around 10.2...will try another couple of teeth and see how it does- one at a time, of course...maybe this motor can take a or needs a few more teeth than the Novak to get up to speed..
My bad for comparing a Novak/LRP & vortex motors. Vortex have air vents as well as a built in fan, so in saying that im sure you will be able to run a lower FDR to the Novak's/LRP. But if you think you have a problem with your timing, fix that first then go from there mate!!
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:54 PM   #224
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hey ill get my settings and pics of the wiring tomorrow, the car didn't work so well this last week end, broke a c hub on my jrxs for the first time, been racing since new, march of 06. sorry for the late reply just been busy.
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Old 09-26-2007, 11:02 PM   #225
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I think I missed in the book but if I want to use a orion brushless with mamba max
red wire is
black wire is
white wire is

A=on motor
B=on motor
C=on motor

thanks for any help
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