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Old 06-26-2006, 05:24 PM   #1
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Default Getting out screws that are threadlocked

Hey all. I have a Tamiya TRF415 and i threadlocked almost all of the screws, because they kept working themselves out. Now, all i can do is use all of my force of tryin to unscrew them, and just stripping the heads. Any help with this would be great. Thanks.
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Old 06-26-2006, 05:35 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotrodHopkins
Hey all. I have a Tamiya TRF415 and i threadlocked almost all of the screws, because they kept working themselves out. Now, all i can do is use all of my force of tryin to unscrew them, and just stripping the heads. Any help with this would be great. Thanks.
put heat on the screw, with a soldering iron
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Old 06-26-2006, 05:58 PM   #3
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i tried that and it didn't heat up the screw very much.
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Old 06-26-2006, 06:03 PM   #4
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Try a mini torch, They have them at sears, Use jb weld put it in the stripped out screw get a cheap allen and put in in their let it dry and unscrew it.Hope that helps Tim D.
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Old 06-26-2006, 09:06 PM   #5
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I've had good luck using wd-40 to loosen threadlocked screws - even those that had red threadlock (I received a used car where the previous owner enjoyed red threadlock).

I only did that on screws that were in metal parts, however.

Anyways, I just soaked the parts in wd-40 over-night.

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Old 06-26-2006, 11:35 PM   #6
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The soldering Iron is the correct method. Dont use the torch you can damage the carbon fiber.
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:00 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotrodHopkins
i tried that and it didn't heat up the screw very much.
What iron did you use? My iron will get the screws very hot.
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Old 06-27-2006, 04:13 AM   #8
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i have a weller. WLC100
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Old 06-27-2006, 04:27 AM   #9
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Friend, spray it with WD-40 then use the iron to make heat, WD-40 will help fluing the heat into the screw.
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Old 06-27-2006, 04:41 AM   #10
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Try a heat gun.

Snowy.
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Old 06-27-2006, 06:33 AM   #11
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biggest problem is actually heating the part that the screw is in. Use some solder on the iron to help make full contact with the part the screw in it. By heating the part you are doing two things; 1. reactivating the threadlock causing to liquify a little, 2. by heating the part the screw is in, it will cause that material to expand making the hole temporarily larger. By heating the aluminum plate, the aluminum will transfer the heat to the joint at a much faster rate than through the small wire size of the screw, which is more than likely steel.

If that don't work, you could try cutting a slot in the head of the screw, trying to make the slot as square as possible - you don't want your slotted screwdriver camming out, causing the new slot to be stripped, too..

After all that I would agree with the JB Weld trick, it works good.
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Old 06-27-2006, 07:50 AM   #12
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i used a screw out kit.
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Old 06-27-2006, 02:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70
biggest problem is actually heating the part that the screw is in. Use some solder on the iron to help make full contact with the part the screw in it. By heating the part you are doing two things; 1. reactivating the threadlock causing to liquify a little, 2. by heating the part the screw is in, it will cause that material to expand making the hole temporarily larger. By heating the aluminum plate, the aluminum will transfer the heat to the joint at a much faster rate than through the small wire size of the screw, which is more than likely steel.

If that don't work, you could try cutting a slot in the head of the screw, trying to make the slot as square as possible - you don't want your slotted screwdriver camming out, causing the new slot to be stripped, too..

After all that I would agree with the JB Weld trick, it works good.
it is first in carbon fiber then in aluminum, which is anodized.
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-1990 Chevrolet K1500 Silverado TBI350 "Heavy Half". 1971 Chevrolet Nova

-My lug nuts require more Torque than your Honda makes.
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