diff problems, help needed
#1
diff problems, help needed
Hello all,
Recently my diff has been playing up a bit , when it was new it was lovly and smooth and fairly free, it got a bit gritty so i rebuilt it, and its never been the same, so i decided to start from scratch, im using new thrust plates, a new screw,new bearings in side the diff and out, the old diff spring and some cyclone ali out drives that came with my lovly surikarn kit , the same gear, new d rings new thrust balls and new diff balls. i run it in by tightening it on allen keys so it doesnt slip, i pop it in the car and run it at 2v, i hold each wheel for 10 secs then tighten so there is no slip(they way i like it), but it feels like theres lumps in the diff still? so it gets very tight in action well before it stops slipping and nearly everything is new.
Cheers to every one that takes the time to help me out.
Recently my diff has been playing up a bit , when it was new it was lovly and smooth and fairly free, it got a bit gritty so i rebuilt it, and its never been the same, so i decided to start from scratch, im using new thrust plates, a new screw,new bearings in side the diff and out, the old diff spring and some cyclone ali out drives that came with my lovly surikarn kit , the same gear, new d rings new thrust balls and new diff balls. i run it in by tightening it on allen keys so it doesnt slip, i pop it in the car and run it at 2v, i hold each wheel for 10 secs then tighten so there is no slip(they way i like it), but it feels like theres lumps in the diff still? so it gets very tight in action well before it stops slipping and nearly everything is new.
Cheers to every one that takes the time to help me out.
#4
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
Not sure how your diff is built, but here's a guess. If there is a snap ring that holds the thrust bearing in place, it's possible that you bent that while removing it. If so, it will grab the thrust ring and not allow it to spin properly. If there's no snap ring, then please ignore my post.
#5
Thanks all,
But still no cure, as the balls washers and rings are all new i doubt they have flat spots just yet!, one of the few things that is not new is the diff spring, could this effect the movment of things?
Cheers
But still no cure, as the balls washers and rings are all new i doubt they have flat spots just yet!, one of the few things that is not new is the diff spring, could this effect the movment of things?
Cheers
#6
Originally Posted by Xrayskid
Thanks all,
But still no cure, as the balls washers and rings are all new i doubt they have flat spots just yet!, one of the few things that is not new is the diff spring, could this effect the movment of things?
Cheers
But still no cure, as the balls washers and rings are all new i doubt they have flat spots just yet!, one of the few things that is not new is the diff spring, could this effect the movment of things?
Cheers
#8
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
i run the cyclone also and the diff is a little tricky.make sure that all the thrust balls are there.they are real easy to lose.i believe there is 6 of them.other that that just check for dirt buddy.there is much more to check for if all else is good.i would also try to go back to the standard spacers in the diff gear.the bearings may be binding the diff up.
#9
thanks to all im off to rebuild again
#10
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
I separate the two issues whenever I have problems.. I take the diff before I screw it together with the thrust bearing, and rotate it while applying pressure inwards.. should be smooth, and any grittiness should be noticeable, and would tell you it's the balls or plates.
Then, I take the thrust, and rotate it with my fingers applying pressure inwards. I also check the inside bearings to make sure they run smooth.
Beyond that, there's not much to check.. to break it in, I have a drill press, and made a "T" bit for it. I tighten the diff just enough to allow a bit of slippage, spin it in the press for a minute, and retighten. For me it can take 4-5 minutes worth of spinning and tightening to get a fully broken-in diff. I've run it outdoors in races and on my street for a few weeks now, still smooth. I now have ceramic balls in there, but it still applied when I had steel balls.
I also run the plates over 600 grit sandpaper, helps with any excessive slipping.
Then, I take the thrust, and rotate it with my fingers applying pressure inwards. I also check the inside bearings to make sure they run smooth.
Beyond that, there's not much to check.. to break it in, I have a drill press, and made a "T" bit for it. I tighten the diff just enough to allow a bit of slippage, spin it in the press for a minute, and retighten. For me it can take 4-5 minutes worth of spinning and tightening to get a fully broken-in diff. I've run it outdoors in races and on my street for a few weeks now, still smooth. I now have ceramic balls in there, but it still applied when I had steel balls.
I also run the plates over 600 grit sandpaper, helps with any excessive slipping.