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Old 07-06-2006, 10:25 AM   #76
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I guess you haven't looked at the price of housing on LI lately... It's really out of control here, I can but twice the house and 3 times the property in the carolina's for what I have in equity in my home...
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Old 07-06-2006, 11:00 AM   #77
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how big is that right hub on the l3t?
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:04 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude
Where can I get this car? Or where can I get the parts for this car? All I need is the rear axles and front hubs to convert something like a 10L Touring to something workable. Better yet, someone like IRS or similar pan car parts mfg should make a conversion kit with the hubs and axles.
YR4Dude - axle diameter is 6mm instead of 1/4 inch of 10L3T graphite axle, supposed to have special machined bearing holder if into AE bulkhead

I got auldey unit from HK about 1 year ago, I buy this just because interest on the simple rear hub design, rear shock is friction shock and T-bar is single plate just like F103GT original parts, other else on this car is junk material would be into unused parts bin,

now in my spare time I'm working to convert it into 2WD touring, the reference is my 10L3T, this one is far better engineered, sadly I can only keep it at good shape as display car because worry of spare part support (..as those buddy desperately looking spare axle, hub etc),
I would make new chassis, aluminum bulkhead, AE T-bar and AE or CRC front end, 35mm Nitro 1/10 foam Rear tire or 24mm touring tire all ok,

this is 3D model of auldey rear pod on 35 mm Kawahara foam, aluminum bulkhead, original T-plate
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Electric 2wd 1/10 Touring Car-auldey_v1_rearpod.jpg  
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Old 07-07-2006, 02:59 AM   #79
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My suggestion, if we want to convert to 2wd touring. Work from 4wd EP touring. Get the balance car from left to right such as T1 Evo 2, TA04R, HPI Spring, HPI PRO 3, CEN SP1 EP or any car similar lay-out.

Advantage:
1. All suspension setting are available. Just use it. (toe-in, chamber, caster,
drop, right height).
2. Very high rear traction.
3. You got similar speed compare to real pan car with the same power
source.
4. Stable enough during high speed or in the thight section.
5. Tyre? No problem just use gas car tyre. Alot of choice available. Previously, I have SPX3 Pro 10 pan car. But having problem with tyre. Very difficult to get the new one.

What to do:
1. Just thinking how lighten the rear drive train.
2. Maintain the rear suspension and make it simple for front suspention.
3. Use high down force body. GT or lola.
4. Use foam tyre for gas car.
5. Try to think how to widen the rear wheel base. (Wider more stable)

Actually, I'm looking second hand 1/12th pan car (4cells) previously for fun race with my friend at low cost as possible. but don't get the right price plus I'm using big tract (can be use for 1/8), so just convert existing T1 Evo2 to 2wd. Peformence superb.

I believe they should produce pan car this way. I love speed that I got from this car.
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:22 AM   #80
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This looks like a reply to the Tamiya F103. 2wd semi pan racing car using independant front and rear pod suspension with direct drive.

I think as a class on their own great, but you could never mix them with 4wd TC's !
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:31 AM   #81
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so do these not accept standard 1/10th pancar foams tires? or does it accept touring car tires..
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:52 AM   #82
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Actually is not semi pan car but touring 2wd . Fully independent suspension all around. Don't need official class.The idea is to share the experience with anybody want to play cheap, easy and fast. My observation shows that this car more forgiving compare to normal pan car.

But, if we try to buy new EP 4wd touring and convert to 2wd off course expensive. Get second hand.

At my place, for Friday night fun race..only nitro not joint us. Others EP car allow to join as long as fast enough.
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Old 07-07-2006, 07:01 AM   #83
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Nop, don't accept standard 1/10th pancar foams tires . Only accept touring tyre. At my place, LHS not selling anymore 1/10th pan car. That why I sold my Pro 10 pan car ....foam GP tyre available at almost every LHS. we have a lot ratio that can be adjust to the sweet spot
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Old 07-07-2006, 07:04 AM   #84
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Don't affraid to do some experimental
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Old 07-07-2006, 07:37 AM   #85
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UFShadow, can you show me where the rear suspension is then to make it independant ? It is a fixed axle car with a floating pod using a single shock. Hence it is not fully independent (which would meen to be independent there would have to be a shock on each suspension arm).
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:24 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jo90
This looks like a reply to the Tamiya F103. 2wd semi pan racing car using independant front and rear pod suspension with direct drive.

I think as a class on their own great, but you could never mix them with 4wd TC's !
Yes you can mix them with 4WD TC's. Several years ago at a track I raced at, 4WD TC's on 6 cells ran together with 2WD 190mm pan cars on 4 cells. It was on carpet, foam tires. Pretty close competition!

I've owned a Corally CCT, RC10L3 and a CRC Pantoura(the only one I still own). I don't think I can go all out with a 6 cell mod pan car and I bet most people can't and thats what killed pro10. On carpet, these cars are KING. On asphalt, even a prepped track I had difficulty getting the car to handle consistently enough. It's not that the car won't go around the track but just not as fast as it should. A very small imperfection on the track can be disaster for the pan car where the 4wd TC is more forgiving.

Although the manufactures KNOW they make more money selling TC's and parts for them over pan cars, the racers are also to blame for their decline. Your local track WILL make a class for anything as long as there is enough support for them! And if you keep buying something, the manufacturers will keep making them!
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Old 07-07-2006, 05:49 PM   #87
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tem, you have had pretty much all the 190mm pan cars, which was the best in your humble opinion. i see you still have the pantoura...
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:26 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tallyrc
tem, you have had pretty much all the 190mm pan cars, which was the best in your humble opinion. i see you still have the pantoura...
I would rate them Pantoura, RC10L3 then CCT. The Pantoura seems to be quickest in side to side transistions. The RC10L3 was a hair less nimble and the CCT felt a bit lazy. There are blazing fast RC10L3's and CCT's out there but I always have a feeling that T-bar cars work better on asphalt. With 12th scales I was just as fast with CRC(pivot) and AE(T-bar) cars but I never got the hang of Corally's(they work for some people but not everyone). I kept the Pantoura cause it was kind of exotic. If I spent enough time on the RC10L3 I bet I would be just as fast with it. All good cars...

Thats just my opinion. For the rest of you, please don't turn this into a pivot ball vs. T-bar battle.
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:35 PM   #89
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actually i want to run on asphalt so maybe a l3t is for me... if i can just find one, and get parts... both are problems
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Old 07-07-2006, 08:11 PM   #90
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Parts are pretty easy to get cause most of the parts are interchangable(even if not 100% same) with the RC10/12L series of cars and various other pan cars; 12th scales and 10th oval. These cars come and go on ebay and if you try posting in the wanted threads you might have some luck cause there are lots out there thats collecting dust. I'm sure you can still get a Pantoura directly from CRC.

If you put enough time on either car you'd be just as fast with either one. Don't get me wrong on the Tbar and pivot ball thing. I have a mind set on the whole T-bar for asphalt and pivot ball for carpet cause thats what worked for me initially without much guesswork and I left things that way. People stand too strongly on one side for no reason and it's lame. Look at the 2006 IFMR results; there are both kinds in the A-main 12th scale!
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