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Old 06-23-2006, 10:50 AM   #1
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Default TC4 Swerves

OK, so I've decided to do a little racing, and bought a TC4 RTR. Before running it I replaced the tires/wheels with HPI X-Patterns (Radials front, Belted Radials rear) and put in an IPC Super Sport Digital ESC. When I drove it for the first time, it frequently jerked to the right.

So on inspection I found a damaged tie rod end (or ball cup I guess you call it). I replaced it, did a complete alignment with a Team Integy Setup Station. I didn't like the way the toe-in measuring worked on it, so afterwards I did the old fashioned way (rulers, lines, and a protractor like we did in the old days with real cars). But the problem is still there.

After a half-lap around the track, it jerks to the right. Not "tends toward the right", not "slips to the right". It goes straight, and then suddenly hops to the right. I double and triple checked the alignment. I checked the surface of the track. I started at a different spot on the track and it seems to happen after a about 10-15 seconds after I start moving. Then I thought it might be a weak signal from the radio at a certain distance, so I stood right in the middle of the track with no improvement. The stock wing was loose on one side, so I removed the whole wing (getting desperate at this point). Then I removed the whole body (stock TC4 RTR bodies are pretty crappy). All to no improvement.

So please hit me with your advice on what I did wrong to suck the fun out of a $235 car.
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Old 06-23-2006, 10:52 AM   #2
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Try readjusting the diffs, sounds like you might have 1 loose.
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Old 06-23-2006, 11:01 AM   #3
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While I'm doing this, the new ESC did not come with any adhesive for the heat sinks. What do I need to use there?

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Old 06-23-2006, 11:24 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Raptor
Pretty new to the hobby. That will mean tearing down the front suspension and steering correct? I just don't want to do all that if there is a better way (but I will).
you can adjust them while they are still in the car...

rear:
remove left rear camber link.
remove left rear wheel nut.
grab right wheel with right hand and hold the spur gear down tight with right thumb.
grab the left wheel with pointer and thumb and try to turn it. you should be able to give it a pretty decent turn without it slipping...
if the wheel turns easily then its loose.
to adjust remove the left wheel and let the hub and cvd axle pull out and hang.
insert 5/64" and tighten the diff 1/8" of a turn.
reinsert cvd axle and put the left rear wheel back on. try the turn test again and repeat as necessary.

front:
remove right front camber link.
remove right front wheel nut.
hold down both rear wheels with your forearms and grab the front left wheel.
grab the right front wheel with pointer and thumb and try to turn it. you should be able to give it a pretty decent turn without it slipping...
if the wheel turns easily then its loose.
to adjust remove the right front wheel and let the hub and cvd axle pull out and hang. the front is a bit tighter so it maybe wise to also remove the outer hinge pin on the caster block to allow for more room. remove the small capture screw and push out the hinge pin, leave the capture screw out till your adjustment is done.
insert 5/64" and tighten the diff 1/8" of a turn.
reinsert cvd axle and put the left rear wheel back on. try the turn test again and repeat as necessary.

if you're running front and rear diffs you usually want the front a little looser than the rear. after your done just put everything back together remembering the capture screw on the hinge pins if you removed them...

hope this helps...
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Old 06-23-2006, 11:36 AM   #5
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The rear diff required a back off of 1/4 turn instead of the factory recommended 1/2 turn. Does this indicate a problem, or will that be ok?
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Old 06-23-2006, 11:53 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Raptor
The rear diff required a back off of 1/4 turn instead of the factory recommended 1/2 turn. Does this indicate a problem, or will that be ok?
the factory setting is a general recommendation. meaning most diffs built according to manual will be ok. but its not a holy grail for diff setting, 1/4 instead of 1/2 is perfectly fine. the stock plastic diffs tend to be a little tricky to set right. run the car with your new setting for a pack or two and re-check the diffs. sometimes they will loosen up again. for me, 2-3 resets usually has them seated well and after that they do not require any more maintenance until something wears out like a diff ring or outdrive.
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:20 PM   #7
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Thanx AM03GT and vtl, that really improved things.

But it uncovered another problem. The car only hits top speed when within 5' of me. The obvious answer is the radio system, but before I buy a new radio I wanted verification.
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:02 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Raptor
Thanx AM03GT and vtl, that really improved things.

But it uncovered another problem. The car only hits top speed when within 5' of me. The obvious answer is the radio system, but before I buy a new radio I wanted verification.
is your package all RTR? nothing new except for what you've mentioned in terms of tires and IPC?

reset your esc to make sure its set right.
add 2 capacitors to your motor, one from (-) to the can, and (+) to the can.

see if that helps...
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:39 PM   #9
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Here's what I have. There is already a capacitor at the bottom. I do not have a third solder point like the drawings show on Reedy's support website. Is the can just the metal side of the motor? (Told you I was a noob.)
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:44 PM   #10
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speed depends on what your gear ratio is (pinion gear) changing these can result in quicker out of the corners to straight flowing speeds. radio should be fine
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Raptor
Here's what I have. There is already a capacitor at the bottom. I do not have a third solder point like the drawings show on Reedy's support website. Is the can just the metal side of the motor? (Told you I was a noob.)
get some sand paper or preferably a rotory tool like a dremel and scuff up the can a bit right under the cap to use as the "grounded" solder point...
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Old 06-23-2006, 02:07 PM   #12
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did you try reprogramming the esc to the radio ? do you have the trigger set at 70/30 throw.(for forward only esc) not sure of what you have. add the other two capaciators. your going to have to buy a stock motor anyways to race, so you might want to just get a new motor and then try to figure all this out.

also try this at home. put your car on a stand and work your throttle and steering and walk away from the car.
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Old 06-26-2006, 04:02 PM   #13
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Just an update for the next n00b about to junk his TC4. I soldered the capacitors on the best I could after roughing it up, and it wouldn't stay in place. The RTR motor does not have a good place to solder to like the other motors. I even took it to LHS, and let the techs there work with it. But nothing cleared up the twitching. Finally I just bought a new motor and it all went away (Reedy Quad Mag 19). As far as I'm concerned, the RTR Reedy Radon is noisy junk. And I guarantee this is the last RTR Touring car I buy anyway.

Thanx for your help anyway.
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