Hpi Pro 4 VS Yokomo SD, which is better???
#1
Hpi Pro 4 VS Yokomo SD, which is better???
I was thinkin of getting a car soon and I have several cars in mind rite now.
Two cars caught my attention, the Hpi Pro 4 and the Yokomo SD???
Just wanna know which would be better???
Two cars caught my attention, the Hpi Pro 4 and the Yokomo SD???
Just wanna know which would be better???
#2
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Pro4...
Yes my opinion is openly biased...
Why?
The Yokomo likes to break arms. In MY experience, in the time that i've owned a pro4 and Cyclone( Note, they share the same suspension)< my friend driving the yokomo has broekn 4 suspension arms.
I'm still sitting on 0.
The SD looks like it has a higher CG than the Pro4. And here in australia at least, HPI parts are cheaper than yokomo parts.
Depending on the SD in question - the layshaft assembly is a pain in the ass to remove. The entire rear of the car needs to be pulled apart to access the layshaft and the spur gear. On the Pro4, you just take the top deck off..
Yokomo tourers are also known as "Brokomo"..
The suspension kingpins on all yokomo cars like to fall out. They always back out. My friend has gone through too mnay to remember.
Some Pro's for the SD:
Geargox access is much better than a Pro4. 2 screws and you're done. The gearboxes are split vertically so they just slide open. This is so much easier than the Pro4. It's fantastic!
A pro4 requires the top-deck to be taken off+ along with camber links (Pop them off) and shocks (unscrew).
Lots more screws...
The SD is compatible with yokomo drift parts! BLING!
To be honest - both cars are very fast and will serve you well. Your best bet is to go with local parts support. There's nothing worse than waiting and waiting for parts to arrive so you can run the car.
I'd still much prefer the Pro4..
Yes my opinion is openly biased...
Why?
The Yokomo likes to break arms. In MY experience, in the time that i've owned a pro4 and Cyclone( Note, they share the same suspension)< my friend driving the yokomo has broekn 4 suspension arms.
I'm still sitting on 0.
The SD looks like it has a higher CG than the Pro4. And here in australia at least, HPI parts are cheaper than yokomo parts.
Depending on the SD in question - the layshaft assembly is a pain in the ass to remove. The entire rear of the car needs to be pulled apart to access the layshaft and the spur gear. On the Pro4, you just take the top deck off..
Yokomo tourers are also known as "Brokomo"..
The suspension kingpins on all yokomo cars like to fall out. They always back out. My friend has gone through too mnay to remember.
Some Pro's for the SD:
Geargox access is much better than a Pro4. 2 screws and you're done. The gearboxes are split vertically so they just slide open. This is so much easier than the Pro4. It's fantastic!
A pro4 requires the top-deck to be taken off+ along with camber links (Pop them off) and shocks (unscrew).
Lots more screws...
The SD is compatible with yokomo drift parts! BLING!
To be honest - both cars are very fast and will serve you well. Your best bet is to go with local parts support. There's nothing worse than waiting and waiting for parts to arrive so you can run the car.
I'd still much prefer the Pro4..
#3
Tech Apprentice
there are too many SD mr4tc.
hpi pro4 compared to mr4tc sd lcg.. i wud go for the lcg
hpi pro4 compared to mr4tc sd lcg.. i wud go for the lcg
#4
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: princeton, NJ and wall street, NYC
Posts: 514
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
If you are looking for the Yokomo LCG and PRO4 hara..
then it doesn't matter which car you get, you will be happy with either of them. but i'm a yok boy.. so I would go with LCG
I'll chip in my opinion, since i do own a lcg and pro4s (not hara).
pro4:
chassis tweak: for the old pro4, you need to drill holes on the top deck to induce some flex. so once you crash, the top deck will flex back to its own shape. the hara has this done already. otherwise it is soo stiff the chassis stay tweaked.
front ring gear and diff: it strips quite easly for me (for me only). if you are running a spool.. it chews up the ring gear or the diff gear quite fast. i think there is a update ring gear in the hara. i run the tc3 ring gear in my front.
diff access: i'm not sure about other pro4 owner.. but it takes me quite some time just to take out one diff.. lots of screw
LCG:
chassis flex: if you ever gonna run on carpet.. beware! lcg flex like a noodle to gain its traction..
diff: open diff design.. if u run on the parking lot with lots of rust and sand. then you need the diff cover . 4 screws diff is out.
kingping on the c-hub: i put a drop of red locktie or the nail polisher on the screw. and i run the kingping collar outside the c-hub. now i run the alum. steering knockel.. i just put the blue lock tie intead
both car are blitzing fast if you setup right... but im bias... yokomo lcg for me anyday... or check out the new tamiya tb evo 5.
~Ming
then it doesn't matter which car you get, you will be happy with either of them. but i'm a yok boy.. so I would go with LCG
I'll chip in my opinion, since i do own a lcg and pro4s (not hara).
pro4:
chassis tweak: for the old pro4, you need to drill holes on the top deck to induce some flex. so once you crash, the top deck will flex back to its own shape. the hara has this done already. otherwise it is soo stiff the chassis stay tweaked.
front ring gear and diff: it strips quite easly for me (for me only). if you are running a spool.. it chews up the ring gear or the diff gear quite fast. i think there is a update ring gear in the hara. i run the tc3 ring gear in my front.
diff access: i'm not sure about other pro4 owner.. but it takes me quite some time just to take out one diff.. lots of screw
LCG:
chassis flex: if you ever gonna run on carpet.. beware! lcg flex like a noodle to gain its traction..
diff: open diff design.. if u run on the parking lot with lots of rust and sand. then you need the diff cover . 4 screws diff is out.
kingping on the c-hub: i put a drop of red locktie or the nail polisher on the screw. and i run the kingping collar outside the c-hub. now i run the alum. steering knockel.. i just put the blue lock tie intead
both car are blitzing fast if you setup right... but im bias... yokomo lcg for me anyday... or check out the new tamiya tb evo 5.
~Ming
Last edited by aoizip; 06-22-2006 at 07:43 AM.
#5
I think it would be better if we knew what you wanted to do with the car before answering. I have a Yok CGM and it's my parking lot car, the CGM tub survives rocks much better than a CF sheet chassis.
#6
Wow before this I really think that I would go for the Pro 4 rather than Yokomo SD.
From my point of view, I seems to like the Pro 4 more. But thats just me, a silly newbie.
Can't believe up to this point Yokomo's vote is higher than the Pro 4.
From my point of view, I seems to like the Pro 4 more. But thats just me, a silly newbie.
Can't believe up to this point Yokomo's vote is higher than the Pro 4.
#7
Well I am using the car for racing on tarmac or on the road.
So which would suits me more???
So which would suits me more???
#8
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Tpg racer
I was thinkin of getting a car soon and I have several cars in mind rite now.
Two cars caught my attention, the Hpi Pro 4 and the Yokomo SD???
Just wanna know which would be better???
Two cars caught my attention, the Hpi Pro 4 and the Yokomo SD???
Just wanna know which would be better???
#9
Originally Posted by Tpg racer
Well I am using the car for racing on tarmac or on the road.
So which would suits me more???
So which would suits me more???
#10
I've just mention earlier that I wanna use the car for racing on tarmac.
So which would be better???
I heard that the Yokomo SD is more customisable.
The Hpi Pro4 on the other hand has been fully hop-up so there's nonit to upgrade too much later on.
So which would be better???
I heard that the Yokomo SD is more customisable.
The Hpi Pro4 on the other hand has been fully hop-up so there's nonit to upgrade too much later on.
#11
Tech Elite
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by Tpg racer
I've just mention earlier that I wanna use the car for racing on tarmac.
So which would be better???
I heard that the Yokomo SD is more customisable.
The Hpi Pro4 on the other hand has been fully hop-up so there's nonit to upgrade too much later on.
So which would be better???
I heard that the Yokomo SD is more customisable.
The Hpi Pro4 on the other hand has been fully hop-up so there's nonit to upgrade too much later on.
If you were thinking of going for a Yokomo, to fix the problems listed by 'AngryAsian' with regards to the SD, pick up some Alu knuckles and use threadlock on the kingpins, that stops them backing out. For arms, pick up 2 sets of arms for the BD (they come one front and one rear per pack), you wont break those. The original graphite arms that came on the SD were quite brittle but the BD arms are awesome.
Im not familiar with the Pro4, but the SD's are extremely customiseable, they have heaps of option parts available from a range of manufacturers.
#13
Tech Rookie
If you racing stock motor get the Pro4..
If you racing modified get the Yokomo BD..
Both car are good..
If you racing modified get the Yokomo BD..
Both car are good..
#15
Tech Master
Go for Pro4. Hara & Andy Moore proved the Pro4 to be race worthy... ...and won several times in different titles too!!!